yeah they should have one in stock (usually an Actron brand, i own one and use it in the shop so it's not a bad unit).
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what kind of numbers should we be looking at? and about the vapor lock thing, It does it so bad the entire car shakes. Almost like the engine is out of oil and seizing up. The engine im using is fine however, it ran excellent in my aspire. If I figure out whats ailing mine before you do zocheyado, I'll post it here or send you a pm or something.
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Well, check engine light still going BUT! cooling/heat gauge seeems to be working, going higher then it was before?! and it didn't do the rough idle/not starting all day! so only time will tell if it actually fixed it, pain in the ass to take it out though, had to use a deep deep socket wrench.
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That's weird, the temp sensor for the gauge is the small one that screws into the head. The one you changed (green switch in the intake?) is the coolant temp sensor that reports coolant temperature to the ECM. I don't think it has anything to do with how the temp gauge reads.
I could be wrong though
EDIT: Unless it the ECM is getting an accurate temp reading and adjusting fuel mixture so the engine is actually running warmer than before. I'm guessing if the temp sensor goes bad the ECM "limps" into a richer mixture (rich is always better than lean and maybe this is a fail-safe) which would make the overall engine temp a little cooler(?). Just thinking out loud here
I sometimes type faster than I work it out in my head LOLLast edited by Zanzer; 06-25-2011, 07:41 PM.
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Ya I was thinking the second thing you said, it was probably just getting the wrong mixture and the guage was never broken? not sure lol, anyways its going to be out of commission for 2-3 days while I paint so we will have to wait to find out
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Originally posted by zocheyado View PostYa I was thinking the second thing you said, it was probably just getting the wrong mixture and the guage was never broken? not sure lol, anyways its going to be out of commission for 2-3 days while I paint so we will have to wait to find out
anyone care to scan in the section of the manual that has some sort of resistance numbers? my Haynes manual has nothing that i can see.
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