Buck.
-1993 Ford Festiva GL, ~200k, B6, Aspire rear, Rio front, 5-speed. '87 Prelude alloys. Happy to be back on the route!!!
-1999 Toyota Sienna XLE, 346,000
-1996 Chevrolet K1500 Z71, 350 V8, 198k, hauler
1992 white L, Bp, American racing 13's, stock trans.
1991 White L, BP/F5MR, protege header, full aspire swap with gr2's, seats, and sway bar, 15" konig's, short throw, escort console.
1991 blue L, 5 speed.
1988 red L-plus-all stock.
Buck.
-1993 Ford Festiva GL, ~200k, B6, Aspire rear, Rio front, 5-speed. '87 Prelude alloys. Happy to be back on the route!!!
-1999 Toyota Sienna XLE, 346,000
-1996 Chevrolet K1500 Z71, 350 V8, 198k, hauler
Weird, weak pump maybe? How many miles are on the bottom end?
1992 white L, Bp, American racing 13's, stock trans.
1991 White L, BP/F5MR, protege header, full aspire swap with gr2's, seats, and sway bar, 15" konig's, short throw, escort console.
1991 blue L, 5 speed.
1988 red L-plus-all stock.
ODO says 212,000 But then again the speedo cable was broken for ~2+ years before my ownership.
Buck.
-1993 Ford Festiva GL, ~200k, B6, Aspire rear, Rio front, 5-speed. '87 Prelude alloys. Happy to be back on the route!!!
-1999 Toyota Sienna XLE, 346,000
-1996 Chevrolet K1500 Z71, 350 V8, 198k, hauler
I'd hook it up to a mechanical gauge to verify pressure and see if it's actually low or just the sending unit going south. No noises, knocks, or rattles on startup?
If a hammer doesn't fix it you have an electrical problem
No knocking but the top end is as loud as it has ever been.
Buck.
-1993 Ford Festiva GL, ~200k, B6, Aspire rear, Rio front, 5-speed. '87 Prelude alloys. Happy to be back on the route!!!
-1999 Toyota Sienna XLE, 346,000
-1996 Chevrolet K1500 Z71, 350 V8, 198k, hauler
I'd hook it up to a mechanical gauge to verify pressure and see if it's actually low or just the sending unit going south. No noises, knocks, or rattles on startup?
Yeah, could be the sending unit. Had that happen to me on an '87 MR2, while driving in the middle of Utah, nowhere near anything. Oil pressure on the stock electrical gauge suddenly went to zero! Pulled over in a panic, checked the oil level which was fine. Started it up, OP showed good again. This happened periodically for the rest of the time I owned the car. I just ignored it. Hook up a mechanical gauge like Zanzer said, to get the real story. Might not be a bad idea to add some motor flush to the oil, so make sure the oil passages are cleaned out.
90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!
You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand Disaster preparedness
I had that happen in the DeathEgg. Wasn't sure why it was coming on, but I knew that I had skipped about 2 oil and filter changes (went way too long with really dirty oil, etc). Changed the oil and filter, and voila, light went off at start up as it should. Possibly the filter was totally clogged, and oil was probably way to thick for the pump to easily pump it though the oil passages, etc.
Change oil and filter, and see what happens!
If it has boobs or wheels, sooner or later you're going to have trouble with it.
Mark S.
That amount of time is just a little short of the time it takes to fill a new oil filter at first startup. There is an anti-drainback valve in the filter to keep oil from draining back to the sump. Should that fail or leak, it would behave as you describe.
Does the light come on at idle? If not, change the filter and tell us what brand it is so we can all avoid it.
John Gunn
Coronado, CA
Improving anything
Improves everything. Copyright 2011 John Gunn
No knocking but the top end is as loud as it has ever been.
That's starting to sound more like pressure or dirty lash adjusters and less like a sending unit issue. Many times if the HLAs work quietly on a regular basis but then suddenly get loud they are trying to tell you they are thirsty. +1 on the oil change and maybe add 8oz of Sea Foam with the oil in case it's just some lazy or clogged HLA's making the noise. Plus I'd still hook it up to a gauge to verify pressure just in case the pump is trying to check out on you. It's always good insurance to get a proper reading and verify you have enough pressure when it's a suspected oil pressure issue because you want to run the engine as little as possible if that is the case.
If a hammer doesn't fix it you have an electrical problem
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