Disposable rear bearings?

[200KGPGTP]

When I got this Festy, I had to replace the pass rear bearing. That was about 6-8 months ago.

Now, I'm hearing a scraping noise that comes and goes that I believe is the same one. I ALSO started hearing a fairly loud humming from I think the DRIVERS rear bearing.....



Do y'all have problems with your festy eating rear bearings? I know they're cheap and easy to replace, but it's gonna be pretty annoying if this keeps up.

[JPT]

I've had mine for 3 years now. It's eaten 3 sets and 2 spindles so far.

I'm hoping an Aspire swap cures this problem.

[200KGPGTP]

Probably doesn't help that I drive no less than 30 very uneven, pitching, buckling, sloping, and sagging miles of street on my route every morning then, eh? Not to mention gravel.

There's multiple instances every morning where one side is 1+ foot lower or higher than the other, while moving and turning, that's gotta put some funky stress on them I imagine.......

[JPT]

I kill mine by catching potholes while cornering.

[Zanzer]

Are you using a good quality bearing like Timken or the cheapies?

[200KGPGTP]

I wanna say it was Timken.... But I can't remember for sure. I'll be sure to get a quality one this time around.

One I got was like $6

[TominMO]

Could also be insufficient grease, or tightening the bearing down too hard. I've seen both, and on one Festy there was no grease seal installed!

[Christ]

There are really only a small handful of bearing mfgs in the world, and generally, when a breading fails prematurely, itsa function of the installation, not the quality of materials.

I'm not judging you, because I have no idea how you install bearings, but they are not supposed to be torqued AT ALL. Doing so preloads the bearing assemblies and can lead to premature failure because there isn't enough grease in the carrier.

Races should be changed with the bearings, even if they look ok. You wouldn't be changing the bearings if something wasn't worn out, so why would you leave the part that it was wearing against?

[TominMO]

I've had mine for 3 years now. It's eaten 3 sets and 2 spindles so far.

I'm hoping an Aspire swap cures this problem.

BTW, the Aspire uses the same bearings front and rear as the Festiva. The only advantage to the Aspire swap, bearing-wise, is that on Aspires (and later Festys) you have the castle-nut type cover for the rear nut, and a cotter pin. This lets you set the bearing properly for no drag, and it won't change.

Eating spindles and bearings is all about improper assembly; insufficient grease and/or torquing the bearing down. When the nut is put on, there is a sweet spot where there is no wheel wobble, but also no drag. That's what you're aiming for. Since I don't have the castle nut/cotter pin setup, when I put the nut on, besides crimping it on I also use blue (removable) Loctite on it and let it cure overnight. Then I check monthly that there is no drag or wobble.

[sc72]

I wanna say it was Timken.... But I can't remember for sure. I'll be sure to get a quality one this time around.

One I got was like $6

See if there is a Standard Bearing store in your area they will have Timken bearings, better take some cash with ya, they are not $6. Also next time you buy grease look for a product that has Molly in it. With Molly it is just a little better product. Good luck

[zoe60]

The best way I know to pack a bearing is to put a blob of grease in the palm of your hand and squish the bearing into it sideways until grease oozes out the other side. Also +1 on replacing the race and proper nut tightness. A bad seal can let in water and ruin 'em too. I've never had one go bad once I install it myself.

[Christ]

I vacuum bag bearings to pack them. Much cleaner lol.

Generally, like when I just did the bearings on my Golf, I put the nuts as tight as I can get them BY FINGERS, drive around the block, then tighten them while someone spins the wheel, then when the wheel stop spinning, back them off about 1/4 turn.

Go back in a couple weeks when you check/adjust your tire pressure (you DO, don't you?) And check for wobble.

[JPT]

BTW, the Aspire uses the same bearings front and rear as the Festiva. The only advantage to the Aspire swap, bearing-wise, is that on Aspires (and later Festys) you have the castle-nut type cover for the rear nut, and a cotter pin. This lets you set the bearing properly for no drag, and it won't change.

I believe the problem with my car is that the rear axle seems to be ever so slightly bent. It looks like the previous owner slid sideways into a curb. I think my rear bearings are always side-loaded. I've done plenty of bearings in my time and never have seen a car eat bearings like this one.

The fact that the Aspire takes the same bearings is a good thing for me. I already have a set I bought for back up. :smile:

...and I never use anything but Timken.

[WmWatt]

22 yrs on the same rear bearings and seals, 114k km, about 66k miles. Only repacked them once and then only the outers because I didn't know wheels had two set of bearings in them. Just repacked them for the second time in April, both inners and outers this time. El cheapo Cdn Tire bearing grease.

[boydg1]

.... Here's a suggestion: POST #39 http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...t=31686&page=4
.