Disposable rear bearings?

[200KGPGTP]

If I kneel down at a rear tire, and grab it at the 10 and 2o'clock positions, and push in and pull back repeatedly, there is play on both rear tires. Is this normal?

[Pu241]

Not to mention that MEK is a carcinogen and is readily absorbed into the skin!
Believe it was pulled from the shelves of stores a few years back and was almost unavailable for a while because of that.
It me struck as peculilar when it started showing up on the shelves again.

Me thinks too many people, notably conspiracy theorists, are playing chemist/biologist.

http://scorecard.goodguide.com/chemical-profiles/html/methyl_ethyl_ketone.html

Pertinent info from above link

Cancer: No information is available regarding carcinogenic effects in humans from exposure to methyl ethyl ketone. The U.S. EPA has placed methyl ethyl ketone in Group D: Not classifiable as a carcinogen, based on lack of data in humans and animals (U.S. EPA, 1994a). The International Agency for Research on Cancer has not classified methyl ethyl ketone for carcinogenicity (IARC, 1987a).



Also read below which was excerpted from:

http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/chemicals/chem_profiles/mek/health_mek.html

Will methyl ethyl ketone cause cancer?
A mortality study of 446 people who had worked at MEK dewaxing plants concluded that there was no evidence of a cancer hazard. The average follow-up was 14 years. This study is limited by the small size of the cohort and the relatively short follow-up period. Therefore, it is does not necessarily prove that MEK is not a carcinogen. There is no other information available.

The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has not evaluated the carcinogenicity of this chemical.

The American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH) has not assigned a carcinogenicity designation to this chemical.

The US National Toxicology Program (NTP) has not listed this chemical in its report on carcinogens.


So I'm good with it!

drddan, don't you smoke cigarettes?

[Christ]

If I kneel down at a rear tire, and grab it at the 10 and 2o'clock positions, and push in and pull back repeatedly, there is play on both rear tires. Is this normal?

If normal means bad, absolutely!

[Safety Guy]

Depends on how much play.

A very tiny little play should be fine. More than 1/8" at the tire tread is WAY too much. If you could measure 1/16" that is probably too much, too.

If you think it's too much, take the wheel off, the bearing cap off, and do what you need to do to tighten the nut another quarter turn or so. Then recheck. Even if you still get play, it is at least better than before.

If you tighten too much and there is absolutely no play, then what are the chances you did it perfectly? So perfectly that there is no drag at all. How would you measure that without the rigamarole of the inch pound test at the stud as in the factory manual? (I don't have the patience for that.)

Thus, my standard is "a very tiny amount of detectable play" is okay. If unsure, drive the car for a few days and recheck. You may notice a bit more play and you can tighten it a bit more.

It's kind of a "to taste" deal. So far I'm not ruining rear bearings at any alarming rate, so I think I'm doing it right. Right for me, anyway!

A couple other points:

When you tighten a new bearing job for the first time, make sure you are turning the drum as you tighten it. It needs to be tightened while moving.

When you put the wheel back on, check for play by wiggling the wheel. Again, any obvious or crudely measurable (with a ruler) amount will be too much. Take off the wheel and tighten a bit more.

If you continue to tighten and feel any noticeable drag, you tightened too much.

After you are satisfied with your work, drive on it for a day or two and then recheck! Chances are it could use another quarter turn or so.


Remember, I'm not a professional mechanic. This is just my method, gained through many years of ignoring the shop manual and embracing my inner laziness!

Karl

PS: It's also based on how I adjust axle cones on bicycle wheels. (Mostly by feel.)

[Mike McKown]

Thus, my standard is "a very tiny amount of detectable play" is okay.

A couple other points:

When you tighten a new bearing job for the first time, make sure you are turning the drum as you tighten it. It needs to be tightened while moving.

When you put the wheel back on, check for play by wiggling the wheel. Again, any obvious or crudely measurable (with a ruler) amount will be too much. Take off the wheel and tighten a bit more.

If you continue to tighten and feel any noticeable drag, you tightened too much.

Karl

This is the way I do it.

One other point, I ovetighten the bearing while the wheel is spinning to make sure the race is seated, then back it off loose. Then I tighten back the adjustment to "slightly detectable play" as measured with the wheel on.

[Safety Guy]

Mike added:

"One other point, I ovetighten the bearing while the wheel is spinning to make sure the race is seated, then back it off loose. Then I tighten back the adjustment to "slightly detectable play" as measured with the wheel on."

Yes! I do that too, but forgot it was part of the procedure. Good point!

Karl

[Oren09]

I'm taking a break from my brakes right now. Waiting on the wheel cylinders to come in... I had everything back together, pushed the pedal, and SQUISH. Blew a seal or something.
Anyway.. I have the bearings greased and in the hub ready to be reassembled. When I took everything apart, the dust caps were full of grease. Do I need to refill them with grease?

[Safety Guy]

I've come to the conclusion that filling the dust caps with grease is just something people must do to feel better, at least on Festivas. I don't think it matters, and I doubt all the grease in a dust cap will somehow transfer itself to a dehydrated set of bearings. As long as you pack the inner and outer bearings well with plenty of grease, pack the bearing race aress with grease, and coat the spindle with some grease, you should be fine.

If someone knows why I'm wrong, post away!

Karl

[Zanzer]

I just put a thin film of grease in the dust caps to help keep them from rusting. The big blobs of grease in there is just a passenger really and doesn't do much, if anything.

And like Mike and Karl said. When I pack bearings I spin them while loaded to run out a little excess grease and make sure everything is seated and then back it off to the "slightly detectable play". You don't want it in a bind or dragging but you don't want it flopping around like a latch on the outhouse door either LOL

[Oren09]

Alright. I've got it all done and back together. Kinda upset though because both wheels are dragging bad.. that was part of why I redid the brakes. didn't start until after I bled the brakes. I have no luck with these stupid drums retracting.

[Zanzer]

Check the adjuster hardware. They are really bad to rust and freeze up. I have to clean/free-up/anti-seize just about every set I work on.

[nitrofarm]

I'm game as long as it isn't habit forming LOL :mrgreen:

I really like MEK......mmmmmmm magic markers

Mek is not good for cleaning heavy grease. Its a GREAT way to FINISH cleaning up your greasy parts though. It's flash point is waaaay to low for heavy grease. But go ahead and waste your money watching it disappear if you like the smell.

Not to mention that MEK is a carcinogen and is readily absorbed into the skin!
Believe it was pulled from the shelves of stores a few years back and was almost unavailable for a while because of that.
It me struck as peculilar when it started showing up on the shelves again.

MEK It has almost the same health hazards as ISO Alcohol. Which is readily absorbed into the skin as well. So basically your post tells us what?
Wear nitrile gloves,respirator & ventilate the room if your concerned about cancer. But in my opinion life cause's cancer.

[nitrofarm]

Depends on how much play.

A very tiny little play should be fine. More than 1/8" at the tire tread is WAY too much. If you could measure 1/16" that is probably too much, too.

If you think it's too much, take the wheel off, the bearing cap off, and do what you need to do to tighten the nut another quarter turn or so. Then recheck. Even if you still get play, it is at least better than before.

If you tighten too much and there is absolutely no play, then what are the chances you did it perfectly? So perfectly that there is no drag at all. How would you measure that without the rigamarole of the inch pound test at the stud as in the factory manual? (I don't have the patience for that.)

Thus, my standard is "a very tiny amount of detectable play" is okay. If unsure, drive the car for a few days and recheck. You may notice a bit more play and you can tighten it a bit more.

It's kind of a "to taste" deal. So far I'm not ruining rear bearings at any alarming rate, so I think I'm doing it right. Right for me, anyway!

A couple other points:

When you tighten a new bearing job for the first time, make sure you are turning the drum as you tighten it. It needs to be tightened while moving.

When you put the wheel back on, check for play by wiggling the wheel. Again, any obvious or crudely measurable (with a ruler) amount will be too much. Take off the wheel and tighten a bit more.

If you continue to tighten and feel any noticeable drag, you tightened too much.

After you are satisfied with your work, drive on it for a day or two and then recheck! Chances are it could use another quarter turn or so.


Remember, I'm not a professional mechanic. This is just my method, gained through many years of ignoring the shop manual and embracing my inner laziness!

Karl

PS: It's also based on how I adjust axle cones on bicycle wheels. (Mostly by feel.)

Karl you have way to much patience for people who over tighten they're nuts. Hopefully the guilty party's will take the time to read your thoughtfull advice. Peace, Thomas-

[Zanzer]

It was a joke. I'm familiar with it's flash point and rate of vaporization. It lasts about .5 seconds in the heat here (the .5 seconds is an exaggeration just given as an example of how long it doesn't last).

Although it does work well if kept in a sealed container (like a Gotorade bottle) and used to remove light oil or other petroleum based cleaners. As you say, finish cleaning.

[nitrofarm]

It was a joke. I'm familiar with it's flash point and rate of vaporization. It lasts about .5 seconds in the heat here (the .5 seconds is an exaggeration just given as an example of how long it doesn't last).

Although it does work well if kept in a sealed container (like a Gotorade bottle) and used to remove light oil or other petroleum based cleaners. As you say, finish cleaning.

Ahhhh gottcha ya jus never know on this forum. Peace, Thomas