Loose radiator

[neanderpaul]

I would get a 7 PSI cap or leave the coolant level down a little or both. The patch might last a little longer.

I just wanted to update this thread. I replaced this rad, and....

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[georgeb]

I would get a 7 PSI cap or leave the coolant level down a little or both. The patch might last a little longer.

[neanderpaul]

I just wanted to update this thread. I replaced this rad, and both lower trans mount a long time ago. Also did a valve cover and full tuneup. 'Noker's wife is DDing this puppy, covered the hatch in Zombie magnets, and has affectionately named it fat bottomed girl! Oh, and at 190K it had NO oil in the air intake tube. It was squeaky clean. And in typical 89 auto fashion it is unreasonably quick!

Thread resurrection complete!

[neanderpaul]

Glad you signed up 'Noker!

['Noker]

Thanks! I've spliced it back together using electrical tape, but the insulation is brittle and cracked in other places - its going to break again - I will look for a replacement.

[FB71]

ignition noise suppressor (capacitor). Not vital, but should be reconnected.

['Noker]

Picture of small black cube (sensor?)

['Noker]

Thanks for the info - I will keep that in mind for the next repair!
While I was cleaning out the coolant reservoir, I noticed a broken wire - you can actually see it in the first photograph in the upper left-hand corner, coming off the white connector. It goes to a small black cube attached just beyond the distributor - looks like a sensor - can someone tell me what it is?

[Pu241]

I read that the plastic used on radiators is also the same plastic as zip ties. I was able to "stick weld" the radiator on my camry with a soldering iron with a fat tip like that. It was actually kinda fun to do and it held until i sold it.

The radiator is a glass filled/reinforced nylon and the base resin is likely a different chemical structure from that of zip ties. But that said, the nylons (there are a number of different nylons) should be interchangeable with regards to compatibility. Meaning even though a zip tie might be nylon 12,12 (I don't know this for a fact) and the radiator might be nylon 6,6 (again, I do not know this to be true) they should be able to "stick" and melt into each other without issue. Making plastic welding a reliable option should the JB weld fail.

[Pu241]

File down the jb, drill holes at the ends of the crack, then coat it again. The holes terminate the crack.

Plastic welding is also an option. When new, the radiator didn't move around, and new rubber mounts wouldn't allow liberal movement.

Christ is correct, I should have mentioned that as well.
Holes do not have to be large, just larger than the propogating crack.
You can even drill them ever so slightly ahead of the crack.

['Noker]

I'll definitely tuck that idea away for later. I topped off the radiator and ran it around the block a few times - no leak so far.
Unfortunately while cleaning up I picked up a wire coming from the distributor area and it broke off in my hand - insulation was brittle and cracked. Temporary fix with electrical tape but I need to figure out what it is and replace it before it breaks again - If I had a dollar for every time I broke something while trying to fix something else - I could probably afford that new radiator...

[bravekozak]

Make Tanja an offer.

Here's another one for one Euro.

[getnpsi]

There is a lot of space up front on festivas. You can implement any number of wrong make and models and make them fit pretty easily once you do decide to replace your rad.

[getnpsi]

I read that the plastic used on radiators is also the same plastic as zip ties. I was able to "stick weld" the radiator on my camry with a soldering iron with a fat tip like that. It was actually kinda fun to do and it held until i sold it.

['Noker]

Thanks for the advice! It's just going to be an "around town" ride, so I'm hoping the patch will hold while I invest in some new tires, etc. I'll replace it eventually - will definitely check out the civic radiators.