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Start or end with No Spark

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  • Start or end with No Spark

    So I got my white 1993 Festiva about a month ago. It has about 138K miles on it. I mainly bought it for driving to and from work as my commute went from 5 miles one way to 25 miles one way, and 11mpg was not going to cut it. The car seemed to run ok but it has a few annoying things wrong with it. Once I got the chew spit wiped off the inside of the windshild, and wiped the grime from the steering wheel, shifter and dash, it was a bit nicer to drive. I had been commuting in it for about 2 weeks, and decided to do a timing belt (and pully and water pump) since I had no idea what it was last changed. The engine was all greasy so I picked up a can of Gunk and had planned on cleaning the engine over the weekend and changing the belt.

    Well, last Thursday I was crusing around and the car just died on me. It would crank and crank, but would not run. I towed it to a friend's house and picked it up the next day with a trailer.

    I first checked spark at the #4 and got nothing. I then checked it at the coil wire, and had nothing. I decided it was most likely an ignition problem at this point and not fuel like I had origionally thought. I ended up buying a Haynes manual from AutoZone, (They actually had one in stock). I tested the coil with an Ohm meter and it was within specifications. There was also battery voltage at the coil with the key on.

    At this poing I was thinking ignition module or pickup coil. A new ignition module was about $50 or so, and in order to change the pickup coil, you have to replace the distributor, which is about $160. I decided to cross my fingers and replace plugs, wires, cap and rotor, since it was about $50 for these parts at AutoZone, and they needed to be done anyways. And it worked! the engine is alive again. I decided that it was a defective coil wire. It used to be that you could take a plug wire and put it in place of the coil wire and limp home with 1 cylinder down, but I dont thing that pumping raw fuel into the catalytic converter is a good idea. I probably would have done it anyways if I thought about it.

    I still have slight surging durring acceleration, which I had before the car died, but I am hoping a new fuel and air filter fixes that problem. I will probably check ignition timing at the same time. And I can also get back to changing the timing belt.

    I know that this post is kinda long, but I wanted to give some background on the car and hopefully this will help someone diagnose no start conditions in the future.
    I suck at the internet

  • #2
    Welcome Clay, Did you check your fusible links? Sounds like a good culprit to me.
    Last edited by mikeand; 07-29-2011, 08:32 AM.
    1991 Smoketiva - 306k
    1997 Jeep Cherokee - 4.6L Stroker
    2004 Sebring

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Clay View Post
      It used to be that you could take a plug wire and put it in place of the coil wire and limp home with 1 cylinder down, but I dont thing that pumping raw fuel into the catalytic converter is a good idea. I probably would have done it anyways if I thought about it.
      Could always just unplug the connector to the fuel injector that feeds the wire-less cylinder
      No festiva for me ATM...

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      • #4
        Originally posted by mikeand View Post
        Welcome Clay, Did you check your fusible links? Sounds like a good culprit to me.
        I probably would have went that way if I did not have power at the ignition coil. Or are you refering to the surging issue? I did notice that once I got it running, it was making a weird smell that seemed to be coming from that fusable link block, and the wires were too hot to touch. They are looking pretty crappy so I might go with the circuit breaker idea like Festy46 suggested
        I suck at the internet

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        • #5
          Originally posted by htchbck View Post
          Could always just unplug the connector to the fuel injector that feeds the wire-less cylinder
          Why didnt I think of that?

          I guess I am out of practice for working on cars.
          I suck at the internet

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          • #6
            Since you have an Ohm-meter you could have checked the ignition wires for continuity or maybe just wiped them off.
            Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by WmWatt View Post
              Since you have an Ohm-meter you could have checked the ignition wires for continuity or maybe just wiped them off.
              I just remembered I did that, and I think the coil wire was out of spec, which I did not easily find in the Haynes manual. Genaric spec is 10,000 to 15,00o ohms per foot I think. Mine was 33,000 ish if I recall correctly and it is less than 2 feet long.

              Its hard to think straight when it is 95º out and super humid.

              I also wanted to mension that the distributor cap I got from AutoZone had the cylinder numbers right on it, but I believe they are wrong. Fireing order is 1-3-4-2, and it is labled 1-2-4-3 (anti-clockwise from top left as looking at the distributor I believe). As always, I just replaced one at a time to origional position and it worked fine.
              I suck at the internet

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