For some reason almost every time I shift from first to second I get a loud hard clunk sound.. occasionally it won't do it, and second to third sometimes its there but barely noticible. Third to fourth to fifth is always smooth. I replaced my driver side driveaxel about 15k miles ago, I know the passenger side wasn't in the best shape, but it doesn't click around corners yet. I could be mistaken but the clink sounds like its comming from under the driver side. So is it a bad cv axel again or could there be a transmission issue? My clutch isn't exactly new and probably needs replaced.
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hard clunk when shifting from 1st to 2nd
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hard clunk when shifting from 1st to 2nd
2008 Kia Rio- new beater
1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP
"If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"Tags: None
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I'll be honest, the ctrl arm to sway bar bushings are cracking pretty bad. I didn't think those would have this type of affect on anything so ive been putting off changing them. I bet my recent KIA strut upgrade has something to do with the clink getting noticibly worse the last couple days if its the bushings. I'll get those replaced next week to be sure tho, they're like 8 bucks a side for the polyurethane bushings on eBay. That's a cheap easy fix that's definately worth a shot.2008 Kia Rio- new beater
1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP
"If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"
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Check the mounting plate that the swaybar-to-body bushing is bolted to. It's a thick metal plate that spans the corner where the frame rail and lower radiator support meet. I had the bolts come loose on this plate once and it did the same thing. I didn't figure it out until I had tire wear issues. Could also be the sway bar bushing mount is loose as well.Brian
93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC
1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
Not enough time or money for any of them
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Ya will do! I had that plate off when I changed the driveaxel so its possible it could be loose. Thanks!2008 Kia Rio- new beater
1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP
"If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"
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The front sway bar is extremely important to the entire workings of the front ends of these cars. Since our control arm only has one mounting point on the frame, the sway bar acts as the other mounting point, if that is bad, the control arm can move forward and backward, causing big big problems.
Moog bushings for the swaybar/control arm point. Energy suspension universals for the swaybar to body in the front. The writeup is on here.91GL BP/F3A with boost
13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's
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If there is no change in steering or direction of the car when you are shifting and hear the noise then I would venture a guess and say trans mount.
But from what other items you have described I would get those other bushing changed/checked."FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
89L Silver EFI auto
91GL Green Auto DD
There ain't no rest for the wicked
until we close our eyes for good.
I will sleep when I die!
I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!
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^^Yup i agree, definatly check the rear trans mount, i've had 2 go bad on me in previous cars
1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor
1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)
If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?
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Aiight so so far I need to check the rear transmission mount, which ill do tonite if I get time after work, I looked at the sway bar bushing/plate yesterday when I cut my springs, and the bolts were tight, seems fine the rubber even looks good. I will change the sway bar/lca bushings next week cause they're shot anyway. How would i know for sure the lca ball joint is bad if i take the tire off and look at it?
Also, I've heard people have problems with finding the right tranny mounts, can anyone confirm what I need exactly for my 94 aspire?2008 Kia Rio- new beater
1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP
"If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"
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