Best way to safely remove front crank seal ?

[FeistyFesti]

I finally got around to replacing my leaking front crank seal. The area on the passenger's side is caked with old oil and dirt, it is a very dirty job. I've cleaned the front of the engine and surrounding areas pretty well. Got the timing belt off and crank pulley and timing belt crank pulley. For 1991 Escort GT 1.8s, there is two sizes on crank shaft seals, pre February 1991, which I have uses a slightly smaller seal, whereas the February and later uses a larger seal. Apparently I have the small nose 91 BP, the key way and key looks in very good shape.

What is the best way to remove the old seal, theres just no room to "safely" wedge between the seal and crank. I am gonna drill a tiny hole and thread a small sheet metal screw into the seal and remove with pliers.

Does anybody have a better idea or technique that they may use? This seems to be the best bet for me because the seal is so tiny. I'll take pics tomorrow and post.

[rollertoaster]

Use the sheet metal screw method. Even if it doesn't come out on the first try there is plenty of room to try again


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[sc72]

How about buying a seal puller, your far less likely to gouge or scratch the crank. But hey good luck no matter what method you use.

[rollertoaster]

I have a seal puller and it is great when there isn't a crank journal or something in the way. I'd actually be more afraid of scratching the journal with the puller than using screws to remove the seal.


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[georgeb]

Seal pullers are only used when there is no shaft present, like if the oil pump cover was removed from the block. The way I did my big snout '93 was punch the tiniest of holes with an ice pick or similar tool CLOSER TO THE BORE THAN THE SHAFT into the seal. Then find the tiniest of sheet metal screws but at least a half inch long and screw it in PARALLEL to the shaft about halfway. Then pry on it with something KEEPING THE SCREW PARALLEL TO THE SHAFT. My '93 is down right now because I was in a hurry and was not careful of where the hole was made. It was too close to the shaft and the screw "walked" towards the crank and scratched it. Then I pryed it at an angle that further damaged the seal surface. Also, use the timing gear to install the new one so it goes in straight. For the final push use a large drift so that you don't push it in past the case flange. Also, lower that side of the motor so you can see what your doing and get a straight shot with the punch. Take your time.

[bhazard]

Any preventative maintenance that can be done with the small nose crank to keep the keyway good?

[htchbck]

^^^ Replace the crank bolt and key EVERY time is it removed. Besides that, proper torque (don't remember the number offhand) is of the utmost importance! Most that fail are due to too much torque stretching the bolt, or not enough and it walks itself back out over time. Either is bad. Do it right the first time so you don't have to do it again!

[FeistyFesti]

^^^ Replace the crank bolt and key EVERY time is it removed. Besides that, proper torque (don't remember the number offhand) is of the utmost importance! Most that fail are due to too much torque stretching the bolt, or not enough and it walks itself back out over time. Either is bad. Do it right the first time so you don't have to do it again!

Crap, that means I'll have to go to Ford and hope that they have both things. Thanks everybody for the tips, I'll do the screw trick cause theres no way to get anything between that seal.

[georgeb]

Put motor oil on the seal lip and black silicon on the pulley bolt threads (that's what my FSM says). I use the bolt over and over and use an impact wrench on the medium setting to tighten. You must lower the engine a little to do this. On my '93 I cut a mouse hole in the body to get to the bolt, but shouldn't have.

[htchbck]

Crap, that means I'll have to go to Ford and hope that they have both things. Thanks everybody for the tips, I'll do the screw trick cause theres no way to get anything between that seal.

Wasn't necessarily saying you have to do this, many cars do fine without the bolt/key being replaced. Especially on B3 Festivas, where they rarely see the hard revving and/or extended high revving that Miatas are subject to every day. My statement was in response to bhazard's question of what preventative maintenance to keep the key in good shape. Most of what I said is especially geared toward Miatas anyway. I have reused Festiva bolts/keys as long as they show no visible signs of wear,, but the proper torque is certainly the most important thing. No offense intended toward georgeb, but using an impact wrench to tighten the crank bolt (whether its on "medium" setting or any other) is nowhere near accurate, and the torquing of the bolt is the most important part of reinstallation.