Festiva vs Aspire timing belt replacement

[TominMO]

I am replacing my '95 Aspire timing belt, and expected to find a little curved section, held on by two screws, that would give me access to the lower end of the timing belt. I know this exists on Festys, beause Festyboy posted about this in March 2009 (I did a search); and my '91 Festy shop manual shows it too. But on my Aspire motor and for that matter my gen 2 B6 motor, it looks like there is an extension of the oilpan, under the crankshaft sprocket, in place of the curved access piece with two screws.

Am I just not seeing something, or are the B6 and Aspire motors different from the Festiva motor in that way? Do I therefore have to remove the crankshaft bolt to access the timing belt?

EDIT: Did more searching and it seems that 1988 - 90 B3 blocks with the small-nose crankshaft had the little curved access thingy under the crank sprocket, while later B3s didn't. That is rather sucky. The later B6, which I have, doesn't either, but I expect the early B6 might have it, because IIRC they are small-nose too.

ANOTHER EDIT: can't get the pulleys off either, without removing the bolt. The four bolts that hold the two pulleys on do unscrew, but the outer A/C pulley is too deep-dished to get off without removing the crank bolt--even tho I dropped the motor by removing the motor mount bolt.

[ericsmith32]

Yeah have to remove that big bolt. You have it easier than I since you have the manual. Typically they come out fairly easy. I guess I've done too many Festiva's and Aspire's I can't remember the differences in the 2.. although I always dread doing the one's with AC! Can't remember if it was the Aspire's also or just the Corolla but I put a socket and breaker bar on it and used the starter to break it loose.

[TominMO]

Yeah have to remove that big bolt. You have it easier than I since you have the manual. Typically they come out fairly easy. I guess I've done too many Festiva's and Aspire's I can't remember the differences in the 2.. although I always dread doing the one's with AC! Can't remember if it was the Aspire's also or just the Corolla but I put a socket and breaker bar on it and used the starter to break it loose.

Yeah, I'll try the starter trick first; but then comes the problem of torquing it down properly when reinstalling. So I'll probably hafta pull the starter and jam the flywheel teeth.

I already tried putting it in gear, parking brake on, wheel chocks for good measure. Plugs still installed. Motor still turns, prob. due to weak clutch (it needed replacing two years ago when I got the car).

Apparently the pic in my 91 manual shows the small-nose motor, so that threw me off a little.

[ericsmith32]

On the weak clutches I just used a old belt and a set of vise grips. Can't comment on the proper torque but it never came loose. I think I was able to get the vise grips to catch on the frame.

[georgeb]

I always use an impact wrench on rotating assemblies. All the recommended ways to hold something from turning always seem sketchy. I have an electric one I've owned since 1975. I also have a stronger air one and an air ratchet (works good on WP pulley bolts) but don't like to hear noisy air compressor.

[htchbck]

You can get the AC pulley of without removing that bolt, but you have to remove the actual upper passenger side motor mount (the three bolts that hold it to the bracket on the block). With just the single bolt attaching the mount to the car removed, you can't lower the engine much as the mount will hit the frame rail pretty quickly. Just take the whole upper half of the mount of, and you can drop it down far enough. I did it that way on my old roommate's '94 Aspire with AC and PS. IIRC I also had to unbolt one PS line from a bracket on the body because the lowering of the engine was going to bind it.

[TominMO]

You can get the AC pulley of without removing that bolt, but you have to remove the actual upper passenger side motor mount (the three bolts that hold it to the bracket on the block). With just the single bolt attaching the mount to the car removed, you can't lower the engine much as the mount will hit the frame rail pretty quickly. Just take the whole upper half of the mount of, and you can drop it down far enough. I did it that way on my old roommate's '94 Aspire with AC and PS. IIRC I also had to unbolt one PS line from a bracket on the body because the lowering of the engine was going to bind it.

Thanks, nice to know about the A/C pulley, but it looks like I hafta take the crank bolt off anyway to do the timing belt. But that knowledge may come in handy in the future....

BTW, for electric impact wrenches, can you dial in the amount of torque you want when it comes time to put the bolt back on? Maybe a clutch on there? Harbor Freight has a corded electric impact for $30.

[sc72]

No to the electric impact, they are not adjustable, you will need a torque wrench.

[Pu241]

torgue sticks
But, they are more expensive than the $30 impact wrench.
Best to use a torgue wrench, if possible.

[georgeb]

My air wrench has 3 settings but no way to know what the torque is unless you check breakaway torque on test bolt.

[FeistyFesti]

I love my Harbor Freight electric impact, that beast makes short work of crank bolts. I've done a Festiva 1.3 and a BP with no problems. They are pretty cheap but work really well. No settings just off and on, so you'll have to guestimate when tightening bolts.

[WmWatt]

I get the pulley off my '89 L by putting a prybar in the upper motor mount and pulling. All it needs is 1\4" or so for the pulley to drop out between the engine and the body.
I don't have to loosen any motor mount bolts.

[htchbck]

^^ Is that with the doubled up AC/PS pulley? I've never gotten one out without removing mount bolts.

[TominMO]

I got the crank bolt off by having a neighbor wedge my prybar in the flywheel teeth. Tmw I will find him again and do the reverse.