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  • #16
    if its got blowby after a bore/hone, then the wrong (too coarse) stones were used. Should be finished with a 320 stone set, then plateau honed. Probably only finished with a 180 stone set, and no plateau hone. I've rebuilt several 1.3s, and have never had a blowby issue.

    Quick fix (that actually works!!!)... Buy a can Bon Ami Powder Cleanser (http://www.bonami.com/index.php/prod...wder_cleanser/) and slowly feed it into the running engine. You should use about 1/3 of a can. It uses feldspar and limestone as abrasives, vs volcanic quartz in other cleansers. Quartz is too aggressive, and will cause more damage. The limestone and feldspar lightly polish the cylinder by leveling the peaks and valleys, vs cutting away more material. GM, Detroit Diesel, International, and I'm sure a few other engine manufacturers have used this trick to help seat rings for 50 years.
    Jim DeAngelis

    kittens give Morbo gas!!



    Bright Blue 93 GL (1.6 8v, 5spd) (Hula-Baloo)
    Performance Red 94 Aspire SE (Stimpson)

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    • #17
      i learn something new each day! thanks Jim!
      Trees aren't kind to me...

      currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
      94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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      • #18
        It had this issue prior to re-ring. I used a 220 grit bead hone.
        Im not driving a Festiva because I'm poor. I drive a Festiva because i want to!

        Dennis
        93 L Advancedynamics suspension mod, awaiting B6 swap
        91 GL B6 sohc, currently in the hands of DAE undergoing top secret work. Soon to be cable G, with stage 3 F1 Kevlar clutch... To be continued
        93 GL In progress BP/hydro G
        15 Mitsubishi Mirage daily
        88 Dakota tow pig

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        • #19
          I remember seeing my father use Bon-Ami before to help seat rings. That was a long, long time ago (early 1970's). I didn't think you could still buy it, LOL. I would do a compression check first to make sure ring seal is the issue. There may be something different about the metal content in the Mazda blocks vs. the standard American composition. It wouldn't surprise me if the Mazda iron was harder or something.
          Last edited by blkfordsedan; 09-13-2011, 10:32 PM.
          Brian

          93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
          04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
          62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

          1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
          Not enough time or money for any of them

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          • #20
            Originally posted by gauge_half_inch View Post
            It had this issue prior to re-ring. I used a 220 grit bead hone.
            did you bore the block? If not, did you check the bore to ensure the walls were true? If all you did was plateau hone (bead hone) with a 220 grit, chances are the cylinder wall is still distorted from previous wear. Cylinders will develop a taper at the top of the stroke, across the crank center line. If this taper is not removed by boring the cylinder oversized, the rings will never seal. This taper causes the rings to "bounce" in and out of the ring lands, in addition to the fact that the cylinder is now ovaled (as seen from the top of the bore) and a round ring cannot seal an oval bore.
            Jim DeAngelis

            kittens give Morbo gas!!



            Bright Blue 93 GL (1.6 8v, 5spd) (Hula-Baloo)
            Performance Red 94 Aspire SE (Stimpson)

            Comment

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