Clutch Pressure Plates

[nitrofarm]

Anyone have a preference to Pressure Plate styles? This first pic is my Aspire,which just ate a T/O Bearing.You'll notice the fingers form a flat surface.As opposed to the second pic which is from a Festy.Which the fingers form a "Conical" shape. Seems like the "Conical" style would be easier on T/O Bearings.

[Joe Dirt]

When the pressure plate is unbolted it forms a conical shape, when tightened down on a flywheel it flattens out this privides the clamp load that engages the clutch

[nitrofarm]

Thank You,do you notice how the first pic there are @ twice as many fingers? The second the fingers are wider. Also what do you like to use to lube the T/O bearing shaft? Thanks Thomas

[Joe Dirt]

Thank You,do you notice how the first pic there are @ twice as many fingers? The second the fingers are wider. Also what do you like to use to lube the T/O bearing shaft? Thanks Thomas

It could just be a simple differance in pressure plate manufacturers as far as the fingers, I've used antisieze to lube the shaft in the past in a pinch but most clutch kits come with a high moly lube to use.

[PhoenixSHO]

We have a similar issue in the SHO world. But there is a solution , there's a ceramic bearing TOB available , and it lengthen the life of the fingers.

You guys have those?

[nitrofarm]

We have a similar issue in the SHO world. But there is a solution , there's a ceramic bearing TOB available , and it lengthen the life of the fingers.

You guys have those?

Have not looked into it. I tried a Timken this time. The ID material is metal.As apposed to plastic.

[nitrofarm]

It could just be a simple differance in pressure plate manufacturers as far as the fingers, I've used antisieze to lube the shaft in the past in a pinch but most clutch kits come with a high moly lube to use.

Yes I decided not to use anti-seize this time. I think it gumed up a little on the shaft. The T/O bearing was getting "Cocked" on the shaft. And thus making the peddle extremely hard to push.

[iceracerdude]

The difference in your pictures is that one is bolted down on top of about a 1/4" to 3/8" of clutch material, the other one is just sitting on the table, the friction surface touching nothing really. When the cable's adjusted correctly, the only time the TO bearing should touch the clutch fingers is when you touch the pedal, hence the external spring on that arm the clutch cable connects to.