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Floor reinforcement replacement - help

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  • #16
    If you have to make a bend with the straight piece.Instead of bending the tube. You "notch" the tubing with a chop saw,cut off wheel. (cut out a triangular shape).Then you just have to bend one wall of the tubing to close the gap on the notch Make sense? And yes of course after its all tacked in.If you have expierence.By all means sew it up with continious beads. Just dont use to much heat.
    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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    • #17
      Is this a piece that normally rusts out on you northerners? Festfull & I have a parts car at my house that we were going to figure out what parts of the shell we ought to cut off before sending it to China (via the scrap yard). It looks like either someone tried to cut the area where the axles and steering pass the frame, or it was wrecked bad enough that it cracked it.
      1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
      1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
      1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
      1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
      2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
      2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
      2005 Accord - wife's DD
      2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
      2015 F150 SCrew - DD

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      • #18
        All depends on how the previous owners rust treated the car.

        Here in the salt heaven, most cars rust badly (especially Japanese and Korean). Winter driven cars are subject to heavy corrosion. My festy is a '88, almost a quarter/century old. Most festivas around here were crushed over 10 years ago.
        Last edited by fstamand; 09-22-2011, 06:39 AM.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Larry Hampton View Post
          Is this a piece that normally rusts out on you northerners? Festfull & I have a parts car at my house that we were going to figure out what parts of the shell we ought to cut off before sending it to China (via the scrap yard). It looks like either someone tried to cut the area where the axles and steering pass the frame, or it was wrecked bad enough that it cracked it.
          PM Sent.
          Festiva: Because even my dog can build a Honda.
          ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

          '90 L. B8ME/Kia Rio 5 speed. Rio/Aspire suspension swap. :-D
          '81 Mustang. Inline 6, Automatic.
          '95 Eagle Summit Wagon. 4G64 Powered.

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by JPT View Post
            PM Sent.
            Replied
            1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
            1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
            1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
            1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
            2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
            2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
            2005 Accord - wife's DD
            2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
            2015 F150 SCrew - DD

            Comment


            • #21
              Some progress...

              Introducing, the patient:




              All jacked up, canuck style. Tree stumps!



              The hole.



              The replacement frame



              The tools



              Safety first !



              So far:




              I am going to put a 90* of sheet metal at the corner of the new frame and the floor, like OEM and weld
              Whatcha think?
              Last edited by fstamand; 09-22-2011, 07:59 PM.

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              • #22
                its good to see you save this one!! we need to keep all the festivas we can on the road!

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                • #23
                  That or angle iron. I'd also plate the seams at the ends with some flat plate overlapping the joint by a couple inches.
                  1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
                  1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
                  1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
                  1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
                  2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
                  2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
                  2005 Accord - wife's DD
                  2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
                  2015 F150 SCrew - DD

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    If its not to late try to put a level on the rocker panels and get the car fairly level b4 you weld. LOOKS GREAT OTHERWISE !
                    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      mmmm you might want to replace those brake lines while you are there....

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                      • #26
                        In the rustbelt those frame sections are prone to rusting out. They also take a beating particularly on the drivers side from salt you track into the cabin. And definitely, do the brake lines too, while in it. Also, altho I'm a great fan of logs for jack stands too, you might want to set it up on the wheels to make sure you don't introduce a kink in the cab to the point that the doors don't close properly afterwards.

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                        • #27
                          crap, should of thought of bracing the door.... It's all welded up now, pics to come.
                          Last edited by fstamand; 09-26-2011, 06:32 AM.

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                          • #28
                            Ok I'm done. here are the pics. your comments welcome. Safety check tomorrow

                            outdoor work bench / welding central



                            massage the new frame. Create drain holes



                            had to do a bend (oem frame bends a bit at front)





                            welded some "wings". 45's to weld at floor



                            Zinc primer. You can weld through it.





                            tapped the brake line "holder"





                            welding started



                            zinc primer





                            Tar




                            Finished product





                            :eeeeeek:
                            Last edited by fstamand; 09-28-2011, 08:25 PM.

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                            • #29
                              Nice job!

                              I just recently discovered that I should do the same thing. This thread will be a big help.
                              Festiva: Because even my dog can build a Honda.
                              ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

                              '90 L. B8ME/Kia Rio 5 speed. Rio/Aspire suspension swap. :-D
                              '81 Mustang. Inline 6, Automatic.
                              '95 Eagle Summit Wagon. 4G64 Powered.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Good call on the zinc primer then tar! I don't see rusting in that area in your future haha
                                -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                Nancy- 1.8L BP, aspire swap, g-trans
                                The Adventures of Nancy! Build Thread
                                -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                                My Musica! Click me!

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