LCA bolt frozen in sleeve

[georgeb]

One of the items on my '93 patch project is R and R of the L ball joint that has needed replacement since W was prez. I booger'd the bolt and quit. With the engine out to fix the snout I thought it would be a good time to attempt to loosen it while sitting in the engine bay. First I notched it with a chisel and beat it to the left but the chunk broke of. Then my son welded a lugnut to it. It loosened from the threads but stopped and is springy. We believe it is rusted to the sleeve that goes through the bushing. Don't know what to do now.

[kartracer46]

If you can get any PB Blaster in there it may work back into the sleeve. also be sure to give the weld nut in the body a good dose too. If not you may have to resort to heat, which will cook the rubber so try not to breathe it in and once you can get the sleeve to expand a bit the bolt should be able to be worked out of the sleeve with some effort.

[Pu241]

Sawzal

[georgeb]

I burnt out all the rubber and can pry the LCA to the front far enough to get a sawzall in there and leave enough bolt to get a vice grip on but I'm going to try to unscrew it first. I have to weld another bolt on to the booger'd one after I have my pot pie.

[91_festy_Gl]

pot pie FTW! chicken is my fav, anyways if a sawzaw doesnt work for you try a grinder with a cutting wheel. thats what I used.

[kartracer46]

mmm, pot pie!!

[zoom zoom]

Wish i had a pot pie about now =/

[georgeb]

Marie Collander's all-white meat. I should have had Lucky Charms instead because the weld nut broke loose after a few turns and is spinning inside the channel. There's a hole about an inch or so behind it. If I enlarge it enough I might be able to get a socket to hold it. I don't want to leave a bunch of scars. It's parked for awhile.

[Pu241]

Just thought I show you how "useful" one word answers/replies to members questions are.
Full reply.
I've been were you are now.
I took a sawzal to both sides of the LCA bushing and cut the bolt into three pieces, no burning necessary.
The LCA and hex head of the bolt came out without issue.
I then drove out the caged nut attached to the remains of the bolt with a punch.
Along bolt will work just as well.
The LCA's should come with a new a bolt and a flared nut (or a washer and nut).
Total time about 30 min to remove and replace the LCA itself this way.

[georgeb]

I might try that tomorrow. It not the best place for a sawzall because it's a closed area. How do you hold the replacement nut without surgery on the channel?

[GenevaDirt]

I might try that tomorrow. It not the best place for a sawzall because it's a closed area. How do you hold the replacement nut without surgery on the channel?

I have done the same thing....you can get your finger in there and hold the nut in place while you start the bolt....use a lock washer also and it should make it so you do not have to get a tool up in there once you start tightening it. That worked for me anyway.

[Pu241]

I might try that tomorrow. It not the best place for a sawzall because it's a closed area. How do you hold the replacement nut without surgery on the channel?

True, very tight quarters, if I'm not mistaken at broke 2 or 3 blades because I hit the back panel of the box in area that holds the LCA bushing.
You can get a socket into the hole to hold the nut but you'll need what I call a small breaker bar to mate with the socket to hold it. This "breaker" bar has the 3/8" socket interface on a pivot that permits it to move only 180 degrees in a single plane and is small enough to fit in the access hole.
Make sure you you anti-seize before assembly.

[denguy]

I used the sawzall method, broke some blades too, got it done.