Noise when turning hard to the left

[g00db0y]

My 88 FF has a loud clicking (clacking?) sound when I turn the wheel far to the left, such as a u turn or turning any hard left.

[crazyrog17]

Bad CV shaft.

It's the continuously variable rotation joint on the driveshaft that is clicking because the boot is probably torn and there is no grease left inside.

A new one is around $50 and there are threads you can search for to find how to replace them.

[71Montego]

yep CV

[g00db0y]

Thanks crazyrog and Montego.

Is it a fairly easy DIY for a novice with mild mechanical knowledge but good common sense? lol

[crazyrog17]

It sure isn't simple, but you can do it.

Basic run down:

Take off the center cap and just loosen the stake nut. Large - 29mm? You'll need a breaker bar or 1/2" impact wrench. Have someone hold the brakes while you muscle it to break it loose.

Jack up the car to get the driver's side wheel off the ground (jackstands and chocks of course)

Take off the wheel and then the stake nut needs to come off the rest of the way.

Take off the brake caliper (two 12mm bolts top and bottom of the back side of the caliper) and hang it up with a zip tie or coat hanger. Don't stretch the rubber brake hose.

Take out the top two 17mm strut bolts.

Turn the steering wheel all the way right. This will push the tie rod end on the driver's side all the way out.

Pull the top of the knuckle out of the strut and push the CV shaft towards the engine with your thumbs. Don't lose the washer between the stake nut and hub.

Get a pry bar in between the transmission and inner CV hub. Pry, but not way too hard, while you or someone else yanks on the shaft straight outwards from the transmission. It should pop out. These can be a real pain sometimes but that has been the easiest way for me to get them out. A new output shaft seal is optional, but recommended.

Pop in the new axle and put everything back together. Put on the washer first then make sure you use a new stake nut, they come with a new or refurbished axle. You can have someone hold the brakes while you torque it. They have to be torqued to ~130 foot pounds of torque. Stake them before you put the wheel back on.

[getnpsi]

Good writeup. If it's the passenger side i have had luck with putting some prying force on it and then hitting the bell part with a metal hammer, not hard though. The shock waves pop it out. It's been mentioned on here a few times and sure enough it's what i had to do on a stubborn one.

[FB71]

Bad CV shaft.

It's the continuously variable rotation joint on the driveshaft that is clicking because the boot is probably torn and there is no grease left inside.

A new one is around $50 and there are threads you can search for to find how to replace them.

FYI... Constant Velocity, not continuously variable.

No big deal, just thought I'd offer the correction.

[WmWatt]

There are some photos at http://www.photobucket.com/festiva-axle

[crazyrog17]

Good writeup.

Thank you!

FYI... Constant Velocity, not continuously variable.

No big deal, just thought I'd offer the correction.

Thanks! I'd just read about more about cv transmissions today and it sounded right.

Constant Velocity!

[g00db0y]

Thanks a lot guys. crazyrog, you do make it sound so easy. Nice instructions.

I'm going to my local parts store and try to see if they can order it for me by next week.

-=fingers crossed=-

I'm not sure where a good general place to get FF parts for reasonable prices might be here in San Francisco or online. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know!
If you've seen any of my other threads then you know I've got a lot of little to decent sized projects I have to tackle...

I'm sorry that this is unrelated to the thread:

-Anytime car is running and I push the clutch pedal too far in it start to grind like when grinding a gear. Even if it's sitting in neut. and I just push in the pedal far enough to the floor it grinds. I'm changing gears by pressing just enough(About 50% of the way to the floor) to change gears.

-ghostiva was stolen from the PO and had a screw driver jammed into the ignition(so sad). I'm searching for a replacement ignition key cylinder w/ key

-I'm going to need to replace the VC gasket sooner or later, as it's leaking oil.(Enter: all of the degreaser used).

-When up to speeds over 20mph there's a humming coming from the rear drivers side wheel well, and more noticeable on the highway.

-Car pulls to the right at speeds over 20mph but I assume that's the an alignment issue.

Again, sorry for posting unrelated thread material. i just don't want to post a hundred little threads. If you have any suggestions or answers please feel free to message me.

You guys are so knowledgeable and I appreciate any and all of your advice. One day I hope to be able to give back once I learn enough.

[g00db0y]

WmWatt, thank you and great pictures! This will help tons along with crazyrog's directions.

[GenevaDirt]

You actually only need to take off the axle nut and the pinch bolt to remove the axle. Of course after removing the tire......http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=35674

[g00db0y]

That's a great thread Geneva. Between everything you guys have told me and the well laid out pictures, I'm confident I can get this without paying a mechanic.

One last thing: If only the drivers side is making noise should I skip a passenger side replacement since I'm strapped for $? Also, how much should the new axle cost me and does anyone know the correct part # for the drivers side?

Thanks for everything guys. I appreciate you all!

[GenevaDirt]

That's a great thread Geneva. Between everything you guys have told me and the well laid out pictures, I'm confident I can get this without paying a mechanic.

One last thing: If only the drivers side is making noise should I skip a passenger side replacement since I'm strapped for $? Also, how much should the new axle cost me and does anyone know the correct part # for the drivers side?

Thanks for everything guys. I appreciate you all!

if it is only 1 side....do that side....if the other becomes a problem...fix it then. It will not just go bad....you will have time. $50.00 to $75.00 tops. I know O'Rielly has NEW axles for the same price as rebuilt. If you can get new, do it. And make sure you get a new tranny seal at the same time. And make sure you tell them manual or auto. Plus remember...you will need to replace some or all your tranny fluid...lol.

[g00db0y]

Geez! Forget it. I'm not fixing it. It can just stay broken. haha jk

I think I'm going to replace the LCA boot while I'm in there. Good suggestion in your original thread Geneva

Thanks again everyone.