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  • little of this, little of that...

    Guys(or girls),

    I've made a short list of things ghostiva(1988 - 5 speed) needs... There's more but I already have some active threads going for those

    -Anytime she is running and I push the clutch pedal too far in it starts to grind like when grinding a gear. Even if it's sitting in neut. and I just push in the pedal far enough, it grinds. Currently I'm changing gears by pressing the pedal just enough(About 50% of the way) to engage and shift.

    -ghostiva was stolen from the PO and had a screw driver jammed into the ignition(violated!). I'm desperately in need of a replacement ignition key cylinder w/ key. Please direct me to anyone who might have an extra!

    -I'm going to need to replace the VC gasket sooner or later, as it's leaking oil pretty good.

    -When up to speeds over 20mph there's a humming coming from the rear drivers side wheel well, and more noticeable on the highway. Anyone got an answer?

    -Car pulls to the right at speeds over 20mph but I assume that's the an alignment issue?

    Sorry for posting multiple issues in one thread. I just don't want to post a million little threads. If you have any suggestions or answers please feel free to message me.

    You guys are so knowledgeable and I appreciate any and all of your advice. One day I hope to know enough to be able to give back!
    Go ghostiva, go!

    '88 LX "tiny little ghost" White - 5 speed

  • #2
    Throw out bearing is leaving you. Perhaps try a junk yard for a new ignition. And wheel bearing would be the culprit making noise in the back.....
    Nothing a good days work couldn't fix if you're in a hurry.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by g00db0y View Post
      Guys(or girls),

      I've made a short list of things ghostiva(1988 - 5 speed) needs... There's more but I already have some active threads going for those

      -Anytime she is running and I push the clutch pedal too far in it starts to grind like when grinding a gear. Even if it's sitting in neut. and I just push in the pedal far enough, it grinds. Currently I'm changing gears by pressing the pedal just enough(About 50% of the way) to engage and shift.

      not sure on this but maybe the throw out bearing?

      -ghostiva was stolen from the PO and had a screw driver jammed into the ignition(violated!). I'm desperately in need of a replacement ignition key cylinder w/ key. Please direct me to anyone who might have an extra!

      place a WTB in the for sale section....sure you will find one

      -I'm going to need to replace the VC gasket sooner or later, as it's leaking oil pretty good.

      easy job....do not put it off because you think it is hard

      -When up to speeds over 20mph there's a humming coming from the rear drivers side wheel well, and more noticeable on the highway. Anyone got an answer?

      bearings....cheap and another easy fix

      -Car pulls to the right at speeds over 20mph but I assume that's the an alignment issue?

      could be alignment or maybe bushings....does it pull one way while under acceleration and then jerk the other way when you let off?


      Sorry for posting multiple issues in one thread. I just don't want to post a million little threads. If you have any suggestions or answers please feel free to message me.

      You guys are so knowledgeable and I appreciate any and all of your advice. One day I hope to know enough to be able to give back!
      May help with some of the issues
      "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
      89L Silver EFI auto
      91GL Green Auto DD
      There ain't no rest for the wicked
      until we close our eyes for good.
      I will sleep when I die!
      I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

      Comment


      • #4
        GenevaDirt is right on on all answers.
        youtube.com/neanderpaul 88 festiva LX w/BP G25 MR 5 speed waiting for wiring- 93 Festiva GL auto w/ air, waiting for B6t/G4A-HL - 98 Nissan Quest - 02 Mazda protege 5 wife's DD

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        • #5
          Thanks guys,

          GenevaDirt and kornhead - sounds good. I'm not too afraid of trying the vc gasket job, but the throw out bearing... I've never fooled around with a tranny(lol).
          Go ghostiva, go!

          '88 LX "tiny little ghost" White - 5 speed

          Comment


          • #6
            You guys get gold stars stickers
            Go ghostiva, go!

            '88 LX "tiny little ghost" White - 5 speed

            Comment


            • #7
              For the throwout bearing the most efficient way to deal with it would be to take the whole engine/trans assembly out together, then separate them once they are out of the car. The bearing itself is EASY to replace (one bolt and a dab of grease) but its getting to the bearing that takes a bit more work. Not too bad of a job these motors are small, but you will need to rent/borrow/buy an engine hoist (often called a cherry picker) and a Haynes manual and a decent set of tools if you don't already have one.
              Last edited by htchbck; 10-11-2011, 12:51 PM.
              No festiva for me ATM...

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by htchbck View Post
                For the throwout bearing the most efficient way to deal with it would be to take the whole engine/trans assembly out together, then separate them once they are out of the car. The bearing itself is EASY to replace (one bolt and a dab of grease) but its getting to the bearing that takes a bit more work. Not too bad of a job these motors are small, but you will need to rent/borrow/buy an engine hoist (often called a cherry picker) and a Haynes manual and a decent set of tools if you don't already have one.
                htchbck, not to step on your toes. But I can pull my tranny in @ two hrs taking my time. No hoist & no antifreeze to deal with. I do have a large floor jack & impacts. But still I think pulling the motor is extra work. Again please dont take offense,just my honest input. Nitrofarm
                Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by nitrofarm View Post
                  htchbck, not to step on your toes. But I can pull my tranny in @ two hrs taking my time. No hoist & no antifreeze to deal with. I do have a large floor jack & impacts. But still I think pulling the motor is extra work. Again please dont take offense,just my honest input. Nitrofarm
                  I was going to suggest just the opposite: Pull the engine and leave the trans so you don't have to mess with ball joints or axles. That's the way I will do any clutch work from now on.

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                  • #10
                    I've seen both ways done successfully.
                    youtube.com/neanderpaul 88 festiva LX w/BP G25 MR 5 speed waiting for wiring- 93 Festiva GL auto w/ air, waiting for B6t/G4A-HL - 98 Nissan Quest - 02 Mazda protege 5 wife's DD

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Personally I prefer pulling the engine, and leaving the tranny in the car. Really not much to it. And while ur in that far. Some basic maintenance is a good idea. Clutch and pilot bearing, perhaps a timing belt to, and water pump if needed. Then you're good to go.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by georgeb View Post
                        I was going to suggest just the opposite: Pull the engine and leave the trans so you don't have to mess with ball joints or axles. That's the way I will do any clutch work from now on.
                        I dont have to mess with the radiator,hoses,antifreeze & hoist. To each his own I guess.
                        Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                        Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                        Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I pulled the engine when I did mine, nitrofarm was the only one to say pull the tranny, I went with the concensus, wished I wouldn't have. I had a heck of a time getting the input back into the pressure plate. I have a cracked outer half that I plan on replacing over the winter, so the tranny will definately come out that time, we'll see if it's easier, I imagine it will be.
                          1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
                          1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
                          1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
                          1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
                          2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
                          2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
                          2005 Accord - wife's DD
                          2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
                          2015 F150 SCrew - DD

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                          • #14
                            There are many ways to do it, and no right or wrong way. I just prefer yanking the whole thing as a unit, I guess because I do have a lot of tools and a hoist and I'm very familiar with using them. Takes me less than an hour to pull the whole deal lol. Draining antifreeze takes only a few mins, and as long as its drained in a suitable container, you can reuse it unless its in bad shape (in which case its nice to have the engine out anyway to adress the problem ). But you're right, sometimes I forget that not everyone on here has done numerous rebuilds/swaps/replacements of these engines
                            No festiva for me ATM...

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                            • #15
                              Depends on what you despise the most: Axles, dripping oil, ball joints, crossmember, working underneath, vs. hood removal, harnesses, fuel lines, coolant, exhaust.

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