First turn the mixture screw in all the way and count the number of turns until it bottoms. Counting the number of turns until it falls out is not as accurate. For reassembly, bottom the screw and then reverse the same number of turns.
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carb rebuild, any tips/tricks?
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Yeah, good point. Can't think and type at the same time lol. Been a while since I did mine. It did run a heck of a lot better after I rebuilt it though. I may be wrong but I think the O2 sensor needs to be good too. I think if it is bad the engine will run lean, causing it to bog. Especially in 2nd gear. Lets too much air in through the ABCV valve. Wonder how many feedback carbs are still out there? I had fun messing around with mine. Glad I ditched it though.
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Keep the original carb if you need to pass an emission test, if not you may want a webber or any other carb you may be able to adapt. I have a Aisan from a Toyota 4K engine, took the manifold to a shop to make a weld in adaptor. It runs pretty sweet but is hell to make it pass the emission test to get the road permit.
I have to re-jet it, and off set the timming to make it pass, once it passes i re-jet it again, bring back the timining to 0 degrees and back in business.
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If I want to just generally clean my carb. without chancing a screw-up by taking it apart, what's the best way to do that? I can't afford much of anything right now if something were to go wrong. But I do need to clean it. Car idles at like 475 rpm when cold and barely stays running until it warms up, then it idles around 975 RPM.
If driving it before it warms up enough it will severely hesitate and have a "chug chug chug" jerky effect if I'm not really sensitive on the gas after shifting to second. But none of this really applies if the car is warmed up.
Also, when I first start the car it usually jumps to about 2000-2500 rpm until I tap the gas pedal. Then that's when it dies down to around 475 rpm until it warms up.Last edited by g00db0y; 10-18-2011, 11:31 PM.Go ghostiva, go!
'88 LX "tiny little ghost" White - 5 speed
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