Feels like a rev limiter at about 2500... sometimes

[FestYboy]

Thats what I was thinking, but wouldn't that throw a code of a faulty temp sensor? I know on domestic cars it will throw a code for it if the ECU doesn't read anything from the temp sensor. I will throw the new one on today and drive it a bit. Should be able to smell the difference lol. I think the reason I smell more gas now with timing set right is because with it retarded as far as it was, even though it wasn't running very efficiently, it was at least burning more of the gas off maybe?

it won't throw a code if the ECU still gets a reading... BTW 18* BTDC is WAY too much timing for a b series, especially a B3. anything over 6 at idle is too much without high comp pistons and a bigger cam.

[htchbck]

Well it was at 18* but I set it to 10* as per Haynes. Should I bump it even lower? I didn't drive it today, spent most of the day working on Green Car, got the bottom end back together finally. Didn't even make it into town to get my temp sensor lol.

[FestYboy]

the B3 calls for 2* BTDC factory timing (i always thought that was a bit low, so i typicaly run 6*) as far as a fuel smell, have you inspected the return line, filter, and pump cover for leaks?

[htchbck]

Yes I have, and its not leaking anywhere externally. The fuel smell is coming from the exhaust (I have a small leak at the DP-cat connection) and two of the studs broke off of the shifter assembly so it doesn't seal like it should. So I get to smell the exhaust lol, have to drive with the windows down So I guess I need to set the timing again, and bump it lower. I will hopefully get to do that sometime today.

[htchbck]

the B3 calls for 2* BTDC factory timing (i always thought that was a bit low, so i typicaly run 6*) as far as a fuel smell, have you inspected the return line, filter, and pump cover for leaks?

Just reread your post, and while I have checked the return line for leaks, I haven't checked it to see if it might be clogged, giving excessive fuel pressure and dumping more fuel through the injectors. Another thing to do around lunchtime I guess lol.

[htchbck]

Ok, this thing will not go away... and I had my second tank of 18.6mpg last night. Something is horribly wrong, but WHAT?

Brand new:
Air Filter
Fuel pump sock (regular filter was replaced not too long ago)
Plugs
Wires
Disty cap
Rotor
O2 sensor (Denso 234-1000)
Coolant temp sensor (intake manifold)

Swapped with known good parts:
Coil
Ignition Module
Distributor
Entire fuel rail (injectors, regulator and all)
TPS
VAF
ECU

Each of these items was done pretty much one at a time, with no change in getting rid of the rev limiter bouncing thing. I will say it seems a little higher than I originally thought (still not tach) it has trouble getting past about 26mph in second gear. If I cycle the key really quick it kicks back in and pulls hard, and if I shift lower I don't even notice it, which is why I thought it was very intermittent before, but now I realize it does it a lot, just don't feel it if I don't rev up to that "wall". I'm just going to assume that whatever is causing it is causing the bad mileage as well, at least until I fix it, then I'll see if mileage improves. But this is a lot easier and cheaper to reproduce than going through half a tank of gas only to find that the half tank got me less than 100 miles.

So, from the list of things I replaced, what am I missing that could cause a problem that would instantly disappear (even just for a couple mins) by cycling the key off and back on.

[drddan]

Just a thought......

...turning the key off/on makes it change..hmmm.... maybe something in the ignition switch, or a coroded wire in the steering column?
I was just wondering if maybe a bad connection somewhere, and the arc from turning the key off/on makes the connection better temporarily?

Have you checked the fusible links for corrosion?

[htchbck]

Fusible links are good... haven't messed with the ignition switch really, but I'm not sure what connection going through there could cause it to act like a rev limiter, but up to that point still run. Seems like it would either run or not. Guess I can pull out the wiring diagrams and see where it all goes to lol.

[FestYboy]

ok, it's definately a load based issue, so any spark problem should have been resolved with the new/known good parts. next to look at is fuel... i would see if you can get a pressure gauge T'ed in line before the rail with a long enough hose to be able to monitor it against the windshield while driving... going WOT should result in at least 50psi line pressure.

[htchbck]

Honestly at this point I don't give a crap about the original problem, I'll turn the key off and on fifty times everyday if I'm getting upper 30mpgs... but the gas mileage is what is starting to tick me off. Its still running way rich (can smell it) and I can't figure out why. I'm replacing the cat with flex pipe this morning if I can find my angle grinder... exhaust is already a little rusty so I don't mind cutting it lol.

[nitrofarm]

Fuel Press reg is Junk?

[htchbck]

Don't think so... Thats one of the things I've switched with another known good part, and it hasn't changed a thing.

[nitrofarm]

Injector sticking open?

[htchbck]

I replaced the whole fuel rail with the good one (no problems) off of Green Car. Injectors and all... said as much about half a dozen posts back.

[Damkid]

^^Could it be the injectors then??



JK i had to lol

Almost sounds like you might need resort to what Kof_kof did, replace every piece of the EFI system to clear the problem out