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Ignition broken - Need help!

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  • Ignition broken - Need help!

    Hey everyone,

    My ignition is not turning with the key (any key) all of a sudden (as in Tuesday it worked, and Wednesday it is VERY intermittant!) I want to fix this before it totally stops working (tomorrow night?).

    I would like to fix this redneck style, by simply removing the cylinder and installing a push button start with no key required (secret toggles or W.H.Y for ACC and ON positions).

    The problem is this: I am really dense when it comes to ANYTHING to do with a car........ (Maybe I will PM Mike to see if he wants to help, lol)

    If not, does anyone know what wires do what and how I would disable the wheel lock? (when turned, as I will no longer have a key)

    Thanks all

    Daryll

  • #2
    have you tried spritzing WD-40 into the ignition and then inserting the key in and out and in and out and then try turning the key after? or compressed air
    Walth

    Festiva #1: 91 Red L 4/5
    http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=27981

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    • #3
      Originally posted by walth View Post
      have you tried spritzing WD-40 into the ignition and then inserting the key in and out and in and out and then try turning the key after? or compressed air
      WD-40 Yes - Compressed air No (dont have compressed air at home).

      It feels like the whole cyl is loose? very weird

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      • #4
        pm'd


        Mike, AKA the sasquatch
        1990 LX, bp+T/g25mr, 9psi dynoed at 194HP, turbonetics t3/to4e 57trim, haltech E6X standalone, 550cc injectors, turbosmart wastegate, synapse BOV, walbro 255 fuel pump, aeromotive FPR, AEM wideband, 3 inch exhaust, huge FMIC, 9LB flywheel, 6 puck clutch and way more parts that im forgetting i installed lol...

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        • #5
          Mike to the rescue!!!!! :lol:

          1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
          1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
          2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

          1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

          If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Damkid View Post
            Mike to the rescue!!!!! :lol:
            HAHA INDEED

            HE KNOWS ALL!

            I look at the problem and look like this :dontknow: and if I attempt to fix it myself I look like this :banghead:

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            • #7
              Anyone have any suggestions for the placement of my "secret" toggles and push button start?

              Comment


              • #8
                i vote to fix it the right way, new ignition barrel isnt expensive and if your car is insured if it gets pinched they probably wont cover it.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Darlo View Post
                  Anyone have any suggestions for the placement of my "secret" toggles and push button start?
                  Yes, in your imagination. Fix it right or you'll never be able to sell it.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by walth View Post
                    have you tried spritzing WD-40 into the ignition and then inserting the key in and out and in and out and then try turning the key after? or compressed air
                    This would be my suggestion as well. But I'd double down on it. Not just spray some in the hole but rinse the lock with it. Or better, rinse it with Brake-Kleen until all the graphite or whatever is clogging it up is out. Then, give it a healthy dose of WD-40.

                    When I got my Aspire it had only 78,000 miles and yet a key had been broken off in the hatch. All the other locks were very sluggish.

                    I managed to get the broken key out with a broken hacksaw blade and needle nose pliers. Then I decided to use what I had always heard was the lubrication of choice for locks, graphite. It make things worse rather than better.

                    When I decided on the Brake-Kleen cleaning it took a long time for it to come clean. I just kept spraying until all the graphite was gone and nothing but Brake-Kleen came out on the key. Then I used WD-40 after it dried. Now all the locks work perfectly and have been doing so for almost a year without any additional application.

                    Last week, or the week before, Click and Clack on Car Talk mentioned using WD-40 on a stubborn lock, so it must be OK.

                    The only thing I can't comment on, living in San Diego, is how it would work in freezing weather. Someone else will have to take over there.
                    John Gunn
                    Coronado, CA

                    Improving anything
                    Improves everything. Copyright 2011 John Gunn

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Woodsy View Post
                      i vote to fix it the right way, new ignition barrel isnt expensive and if your car is insured if it gets pinched they probably wont cover it.
                      I dont have theft on the car, and I dont think someone will steal my Festiva! I also dont plan on selling it, so I am not worried at all about that!

                      I do think that the WD-40 has improved the issue, but I would still like to remove the key all together. I dont need a key to enter the car (locks got punched a year ago, but open fine with a quarter (or driver etc))

                      I want to do this push button start, but would love suggestions on the placement and if anyone has had issues with certain switches etc, please let me know!

                      Thanks for the ideas thus far as well, the WD-40 is working so far!

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                      • #12
                        My father in law has pushbutton on his truck. He still uses the key for the run switch but has it where u have to push on the break before the truck would even start, kinda like a safety switch thing. I would put your switches up under the dash somewhere that way u can't see them when lookin in the car through window. It would be interesting if u could put the push button in the stock ignition cylinder location

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                        • #13
                          If I knew which wires to use I'd of already done this in my Aspire, using the factory (modded) dash buttons.
                          2008 Kia Rio- new beater
                          1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
                          1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
                          1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
                          1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
                          1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
                          1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
                          1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



                          "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by lil red rocket View Post
                            My father in law has pushbutton on his truck. He still uses the key for the run switch but has it where u have to push on the break before the truck would even start, kinda like a safety switch thing. I would put your switches up under the dash somewhere that way u can't see them when lookin in the car through window. It would be interesting if u could put the push button in the stock ignition cylinder location
                            It would be cool to mount the push button in the spot where the key would go! Not sure if this will work, but when Mike and I get it apart, I am sure he will have suggestions that will be best.......

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              If you're in a pinch and absolutely need to start your car, take the steering column housing off. There is a white round plastic part screwed to the back of the metal lock cylinder. It has the wires coming out of it. There's a screw(Maybe two?) holding it on to the metal cylinder. Once that is off you should be able to use a flat head screw driver to start the car by inserting it into the round little gray dial in the center of the white plastic housing. One click to the right activates just the radio, heater, etc. If you push the clutch pedal like normal while clicking it once more to the right until it starts should get it going.

                              Warning though: I believe your electric fan won't work at this point. Because the fan circuit requires that little gray dial to only be turned one click instead of staying two click to start it. When in a normal situation this is prevented by the lock cylinder reversing your key a quarter click once it's let go.

                              this is why you notice if you have your radio on and you go to start your car the radio wont turn on until right after you let go of the key and it clicks back that quarter turn.

                              I'm sure I confused people here. I'm not very good at explaining things I guess, but you'll get the idea once you're in there. BE CAREFUL not to sit idle in traffic too long or you'll overheat, but it'll cool down fairly quickly once you get some air flowing through there. If you get stuck idling in traffic, even if the temp isnt red, be careful not to let it get anywhere past half way. You'll start to notice steam from under the hood. I believe that is coming from the coolant overflow res.

                              Hope this helps if you happen to find yourself in a "WTF do I do now" situation. But hopefully you wont get to that point.

                              Just carry the right tools to get the steering housing off and able to unscrew the wire end from the ignition cylinder.
                              Go ghostiva, go!

                              '88 LX "tiny little ghost" White - 5 speed

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