And just a side note,are you testing the positive or negative side? It should be tested on the positive terminal. Also you can use the meter without breaking connection of power if you use a clip style lead for the terminal end and the standard for the post side. Lossen the terminal and clip the lead to it place the other standard lest in the center of the post and slide the terminal up over it. It should not break vonnection and reset everything.
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Parasitic battery draw?
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Im not driving a Festiva because I'm poor. I drive a Festiva because i want to!
Dennis
93 L Advancedynamics suspension mod, awaiting B6 swap
91 GL B6 sohc, currently in the hands of DAE undergoing top secret work. Soon to be cable G, with stage 3 F1 Kevlar clutch... To be continued
93 GL In progress BP/hydro G
15 Mitsubishi Mirage daily
88 Dakota tow pig
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Correct me if I am wrong. The ROOM fuse is for the white/red wire and is hot at all times. It provides power through a 10 amp fuse to all the equipment that has memory such as ECU, radio and dash clock. It is there for all the interior lights including the cargo light. If you pull that fuse, there should not be any pull on the battery from the rest of the electrical system. Good luck.
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Freakin car wouldn't start again this morning! Gonna test again tonight and see if I missed something. Would very short trips have anything to do with it? I pretty much only drive to work and the grocery store, both of which are less than 5 minutes away."Lane, I've been going to this high school for seven and a half years. I'm no dummy."
Gone but never forgotten, "Hulkstiva"...http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ht=progression
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Originally posted by lanemeyer14 View PostFreakin car wouldn't start again this morning! Gonna test again tonight and see if I missed something. Would very short trips have anything to do with it? I pretty much only drive to work and the grocery store, both of which are less than 5 minutes away.Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link
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I'm assuming its draining down overnight then? Maybe tonight when you get home, just unhook the battery and in the morning hook it back up and see if it will crank. It does sound like it could be the battery not holding a charge. If its dead in the morning after being unhooked all night, you'll know its the battery. If its not, you'll know its the car killing it.No festiva for me ATM...
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Batteries also perform best at about 80 degreesF. If its 100 degrees out or 45 degrees out it makes a difference too, and will exploit a weakness that you can brush off and neglect in warmer months.1993 GL 5 speed
It's a MazdaFordnKia thing, and you will understand!
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Originally posted by nitrofarm View PostI had a similar issue with my 02 E350 turned out I had a bad cell in the battery.I kept thinking I had a some small amp draw. Jus a thought---
Originally posted by htchbck View PostI'm assuming its draining down overnight then? Maybe tonight when you get home, just unhook the battery and in the morning hook it back up and see if it will crank. It does sound like it could be the battery not holding a charge. If its dead in the morning after being unhooked all night, you'll know its the battery. If its not, you'll know its the car killing it.
Originally posted by getnpsi View PostBatteries also perform best at about 80 degreesF. If its 100 degrees out or 45 degrees out it makes a difference too, and will
exploit a weakness that you can brush off and neglect in warmer months."Lane, I've been going to this high school for seven and a half years. I'm no dummy."
Gone but never forgotten, "Hulkstiva"...http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ht=progression
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I vote for the battery being bad. If you hook up your ammeter in series with the positive side and after about 10 minutes you have no more than a couple hundredths/thousands(can't remember which is the safe zone) of an amp then your battery is loosing it's charge. Also don't disconnect the ammeter after you get your reading or you'll disrupt connection and regaining the connection again to recheck will have a false reading, you need to leave it hooked up.
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Originally posted by kumalaba View Postcody,run it by autozone & get a free battery & alternator report.
Been keeping a close eye on it, checking volts before I start it up, when it's running and after I shut it off and everything seems fine. Go out this morning, check the battery and it's at 11.4xx volts and the car wouldn't start!"Lane, I've been going to this high school for seven and a half years. I'm no dummy."
Gone but never forgotten, "Hulkstiva"...http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ht=progression
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Car/battery has been fine the past few weeks. Battery was dead again the other morning, fine again for a few days, now dead again this moring. Just gonna replace the battery now and go from there"Lane, I've been going to this high school for seven and a half years. I'm no dummy."
Gone but never forgotten, "Hulkstiva"...http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ht=progression
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damn my blue car has developed one of these!!!!93 L B6T DD http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=37751
RIP_90 LuX http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=32249
RIP 88 LX / B8-MEhttp://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=26398
RJ
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Originally posted by skimsucka View Postdamn my blue car has developed one of these!!!!"Lane, I've been going to this high school for seven and a half years. I'm no dummy."
Gone but never forgotten, "Hulkstiva"...http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ht=progression
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I like this style amp gauge, you pull the fuse and plug in its place , helps isolate current draw . I have seen them low as $14 in harbour freight
Last edited by NovaSS; 12-03-2011, 04:36 PM.money pit
No spitters were I work, you swallow it all. The Company feels if you already have it in your mouth why waste it.
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