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  • Brake Booster choice

    My Aspire's idle drops @250 rpm when I press the brake pedal. 'm assuming its the booster.Is there any better (bigger) alternative to the ATX booster's.Or is that my only choice? Thanks in advance
    Edit: I've looked for a vaccum leak,and didnt find anything obvious.
    Last edited by nitrofarm; 11-28-2011, 05:35 PM.
    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

  • #2
    02 Kia Rio Power Booster swap ?

    Anyone tried this? I can get it new from Kia @ $65.00 with my account. Anyone......thx!
    Last edited by nitrofarm; 11-29-2011, 05:00 AM.
    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

    Comment


    • #3
      I know it's not what you asked, but I put an Escort ('99) brake booster on my girlfriend's Festiva.

      There was trouble with the brake light switch though because the push rod was .25" shorter. I shimmed it with plastic to open the switch when the pedal was at rest.

      The new booster bolted up fine but doesn't perform too noticeably different than my stock setup.
      -Zack
      Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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      • #4
        Originally posted by nitrofarm View Post
        My Aspire's idle drops @250 rpm when I press the brake pedal. 'm assuming its the booster.Is there any better (bigger) alternative to the ATX booster's.Or is that my only choice? Thanks in advance
        Edit: I've looked for a vaccum leak,and didnt find anything obvious.
        does this happen with a single application, or do you have to hit it a few times to get the RPMs to drop? typicaly what should happen as you pump the brakes is the idle should INCREASE, not drop.
        Trees aren't kind to me...

        currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
        94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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        • #5
          Make sure you have a check valve in the vacuum hose that goes from the intake to the brake booster. If you replaced the OEM hose with an ordinary hose, you lost your check valve. You can verify if you have a check valve by feeling the hose for a "hard lump" about 3/4" long, or by pulling the hose off the brake booster immediately after running the engine without touching the brake pedal. When you pull the hose off the brake chamber, you should hear a distinctive hiss of air from the vacuum that was being held in the brake chamber.

          It's also possible you may have a short in your brake light wiring. If you don't have a really good battery, the short could be putting an extra load on the alternator causing the rpm change.
          You gonna race that thing?
          http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm

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          • #6
            Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
            does this happen with a single application, or do you have to hit it a few times to get the RPMs to drop? typicaly what should happen as you pump the brakes is the idle should INCREASE, not drop.
            Yes with each single application.It idles low for as long as I hold the brake pedal down.Lift & it smooths out...
            Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
            Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
            Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Festy46 View Post
              Make sure you have a check valve in the vacuum hose that goes from the intake to the brake booster. If you replaced the OEM hose with an ordinary hose, you lost your check valve. You can verify if you have a check valve by feeling the hose for a "hard lump" about 3/4" long, or by pulling the hose off the brake booster immediately after running the engine without touching the brake pedal. When you pull the hose off the brake chamber, you should hear a distinctive hiss of air from the vacuum that was being held in the brake chamber.

              It's also possible you may have a short in your brake light wiring. If you don't have a really good battery, the short could be putting an extra load on the alternator causing the rpm change.
              Well I just went and let it run.Then shut it off.Let it sit for 10-15 seconds.Then pulled the hose of @ the booster.Heard a loud hiss.Checked the check valve by sucking/blowning. It is fine-Soooo maybe its the brake lights.I'll try pulling the fuse & switch seperatly to isolate it(if thats what it is indeed.) Thanks for idea
              Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
              Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
              Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

              Comment


              • #8
                another possibility is the breather valve on the back side of the diaphram (another one-way valve built into the booster). BUT, seeing that the RPMs STAY down as long as you depress the pedal, i would agree with Festy46 and look for an electrical draw putting an excessive load on the alt, thus pulling the RPMs down.
                Trees aren't kind to me...

                currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
                  another possibility is the breather valve on the back side of the diaphram (another one-way valve built into the booster). BUT, seeing that the RPMs STAY down as long as you depress the pedal, i would agree with Festy46 and look for an electrical draw putting an excessive load on the alt, thus pulling the RPMs down.
                  Sounds like a plan.Been burning the candle @ both ends.Hopefully tonight I'll get a chance.Thanks for the help!
                  Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                  Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                  Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by nitrofarm View Post
                    Sounds like a plan.Been burning the candle @ both ends.Hopefully tonight I'll get a chance.Thanks for the help!
                    Hey Arty youv'e got mail
                    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Take a look at your stoplight circuit yet? Hope you've figured it out!
                      -Zack
                      Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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                      • #12
                        Convert to LED, at least in the rear, the alternator will never see the difference from no lights to brake lights on.
                        Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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