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  • #16
    Its possible to take the multi-function switch apart and clean it.
    Its likely that you may buy a new one too
    HID lighting will reduce the load by 25-30 watts for the little kits
    or next to nothing for the big kits as they use a separate power
    source.

    Any slip connector like those links that are high power should
    be soldered clear through, no fuses for the best long life connection.
    Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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    • #17
      I am currently tight on funds so I am going to try to not have to buy a new switch.

      I finally got a cop to come inspect the car for the title application at the BMV so I can finally drive it when i transfer the plates off my old LHS after work today. If anything I can drive with the high beams on at night. The headlights on this junker are so cracked, fogged, or rust coated on the inside (right light was filled with water to brim when I got it, it sat in a back yard for a year like that) that there isn't [I]that[I] much difference in the brightness ha.
      ~Zach

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      • #18
        Finally have time to work on the Festy today, going to post pics of work.
        ~Zach

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        • #19
          Ok, I dissembled the steering column cover. I see that the low beams and DRLs are controlled by a small 3 wire plug. This plug fits into the back of the column but pulling it out shows it is only a holder for the plug connector. This shows that it just splices together the 2 red headlight wires (red blk and red ylw) and one black unknown wire, ground i think.

          From the wire diagram i think that i should be able to just put these 3 wires to a new 2 point switch or heck even an on/off (i don't see why i'd never have DRLs without headlights anyway) and just leave the headlight switch in there to toggle on/off brights and blinkers.

          thoughts? comments?
          ~Zach

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          • #20
            you can clean the inside of the switch, just don't
            lose any springs like I did :eeeeeek:
            Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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            • #21
              I would like to but i can't figure out how to remove it from the column so I can clean it :\
              ~Zach

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              • #22
                Originally posted by ztittle View Post
                I would like to but i can't figure out how to remove it from the column so I can clean it :\
                Welcome to the forum! Always good to have more Indiana folks. Let me know if you need any parts or help or anything. There are several of us near you.
                -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                Nancy- 1.8L BP, aspire swap, g-trans
                The Adventures of Nancy! Build Thread
                -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                My Musica! Click me!

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                • #23
                  I would love some help trying to figure out this headlight wiring and switch. Unfortunately, I don't go to small claims court to get the title until the 31st, so I can't drive it till then. Legally anyway.
                  ~Zach

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Movin View Post
                    ... Any slip connector like those links that are high power should be soldered clear through, no fuses for the best long life connection.
                    Without a fuse, you risk a the insulation rubbing off of a wire and causing an electrical short. If you had a fuse, the current would blow that instead of causing the wires or battery from going up in flames. I would say if you're smart enough to solder, you're smart enough to know you need a fuse as well.
                    -Zack
                    Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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                    • #25
                      OK, I finally got the title to the car, ordered anyway, and plates on it. After letting the spinning part of the switch dry after blasting it with brake cleaner the headlights started coming on. I didn't disassemble the switch from the column and clean anything out on the inside. I think it was the spinning part of the switch itself that got dirty or corroded as it is broken open and exposed. But for now, it is drivable.

                      Now then, I just need to repair the suspension, brakes, exhaust, floor pan hole, replace the seats, tires, broken light covers, etc. *huff*
                      ~Zach

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by crazyrog17 View Post
                        Without a fuse, you risk a the insulation rubbing off of a wire and causing an electrical short. If you had a fuse, the current would blow that instead of causing the wires or battery from going up in flames. I would say if you're smart enough to solder, you're smart enough to know you need a fuse as well.
                        The steering wheel needs to come off before the multifunction part
                        can be removed ,separated, carefully disassembled and cleaned.

                        I didn't write what I was trying to say! The slip on connectors for
                        the fusible links should be eliminated. Quality crimps and new
                        fusible link wire are the most durable. If using fuses new metal
                        from bare wire should be installed, do not try to reuse the slip
                        on connector. Solder the new female end onto the wires then put
                        a new fuse into the new holder. I like fusible link better because
                        there are no moving connections and if you accidently touch a wrench
                        from ground to power it will not blow a fusible link if you just spark it.
                        If you leave it for a second it will burn and protect the harness. A
                        fuse will blow instantly. I have everything to fix my links if needed
                        but have never needed to. However, when cutting firewood I have
                        popped the tail light fuse several times from the trailer,several
                        new pigtails on it! Use fuses or links whatever you are happy with
                        but get those old original festiva slip connectors out of there!
                        Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Just today I got my Haynes manual in the mail. Cost me a whole $0.01 on Amazon but + $3.99 S&H of course X_x

                          If my headlights go out again I will defiantly disassemble and clean the whole switch but i really think it was dirt and corrosion on the sliding contacts of the twisty/spinning part of the switch.

                          I will be posting a video on YouTube soon of the car now that I can drive it around! It has some really bad suspension/strut/shock? problems and is an extremely rough ride, very noisy rattling down the road.
                          ~Zach

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                          • #28
                            Good investment!

                            EVO deck'd out with Bruce Lee
                            First time owner
                            89 L carb'd - white / still needs work
                            Bought for mpg and only paid $250

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                            • #29
                              Ok, my friend borrowed the car on the 31st like, right after I got it home and he was gone until freaking 10pm last night (1.5 days) and I get in the car to go to the store and now the headlights don't work and the charge light is on again.

                              I hate that he makes up stories, I asked him when all this started happening, he said when he pulled into the driveway. I mentioned the headlights don't come on and he's like "well I had to drive it with the brights on" Failure /= Driving with highs + just happened in driveway. -_-

                              I will see if I can figure out what he did later today. *grumble* And probably record me taking out the headlight switch to clean it like I said I would.
                              Last edited by ztittle; 02-02-2012, 08:09 AM.
                              ~Zach

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                              • #30
                                thats no fun! maybe try a lubricant instead of brake cleaner. brake clean evaporates!
                                1992 white L, Bp, American racing 13's, stock trans.
                                1991 White L, BP/F5MR, protege header, full aspire swap with gr2's, seats, and sway bar, 15" konig's, short throw, escort console.
                                1991 blue L, 5 speed.
                                1988 red L-plus-all stock.

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