Hard brake line replacement.

[jjk1224]

Blew a brake line the other day when I installed my new master cylinder. It was the longest one, going all the way back to the drivers side rear. You would think they would put a split in it somewhere like the passengers side? Anyway, the factory routing is a disaster, I am afraid to get the stock lines off because I don't want to crack my fuel lines/other brake line. All of the rest of them seem to be solid, but I just know I will not be able to get a new line through the crossmember and back into the original position. I am either thinking about re routing a new line around the crossmember and just zip tie it along the other lines, or paying a shop to replace it (not a fan of doing so but I do not want to bother with it).

[georgeb]

Advance Auto sells lines in various lengths and a union if they're not long enough. I've yet to run new lines in their original location.

[nitrofarm]

Blew a brake line the other day when I installed my new master cylinder. It was the longest one, going all the way back to the drivers side rear. You would think they would put a split in it somewhere like the passengers side? Anyway, the factory routing is a disaster, I am afraid to get the stock lines off because I don't want to crack my fuel lines/other brake line. All of the rest of them seem to be solid, but I just know I will not be able to get a new line through the crossmember and back into the original position. I am either thinking about re routing a new line around the crossmember and just zip tie it along the other lines, or paying a shop to replace it (not a fan of doing so but I do not want to bother with it).

Yes the brake/fuel line routing on vehicles can be a "Dirty Word". But in the case of the Festy's.They are a very "Dirty Word". Mine are very corroded on my Aspire. Plus I have a bad fuel tank.I can only fill up to 4.5 gals of gas. So the plan is, pull the tank & replace ALL lines.Including the break lines. Cuz you know as soon as you start wiggling 20 year old lines.Your gonna have a FUBAR befor days end. I'd expect your mechanic is not gonna like your car after he's done with it. And you might not your mechanics prices after he's done with you. Good luck-

[Basement_Modder]

DO NOT PAY SOMEBODY TO DO IT! (Unless its me... lol)

When you blow a line, replace them all. It will save you the pain of blowing another one 2 days later because the system gives them more pressure after the old weak link becomes the strongest. Also, while you're down there, spray over your hard lines with 2-3 coats of black rustoleum to keep them good for a while, too.

[klarkposta]

Hi,i also have problem wit my break.
I have an unusual problem with my pride '99.
Right rear drum breaks momentary in the beginning of drive ( some 5km) , I am not able to regulate break force, this is more present if whether cold and humid.
Drum is ok
Break plates is ok.
Adjuster is ok
If I clean inner surface of drum than in some time is everything ok, please advise.

Btw – sorry for my bad write, that cause my bad , very bad English.
Thanks for understanding.

[WmWatt]

I cut the line and borrowed a flare tool when I was replacing the brake line on my car. Some parts stores have a free tool loaner program. I was told the brake line flare tool was one of their most often borrowed tools.

[zoom zoom]

I've done...more brake jobs than I cared to... And I've never used a flare tool for it in my life! Somehow it always just seems to work out without needing one, since both ends of a 4' section are preflared anyway I'd rather pay a dollar or two for a compression fitting instead of going thru the hassle of messing with a flare tool.

[georgeb]

I cut the line and borrowed a flare tool when I was replacing the brake line on my car. Some parts stores have a free tool loaner program. I was told the brake line flare tool was one of their most often borrowed tools.

The double flare on brake lines is difficult if not impossible to do. It's better to get the prefab lines.

[WmWatt]

I din't find flaring particularly difficult once I learned that the harder you turn the bolt the better the fit. Having said that I found preflared lengths with the fittings already on them were cheaper than buying lines and fittings separately. That's why I only did two flared fittings in replacing all the brake line. Still, if you just want to cut out and splice in line to replace a leaking section, the flaring tool is the way to go. I agree that doing the whole car is a pain. The part where the line goes from the engine compartment down under the chasis is worst, followed by the part that goes over the gas tank to the passenger's side rear wheel.