What to check next?

[bugbor]

Did a search and haven't found this exact problem so I hope somebody'll be able to help. Car is a '90L Plus, 5-speed. Had battery go dead on Saturday, but was able to bump-start and drive about a half-mile to parts store. They tested the battery and it showed 37 amps under load. Hadn't gotten a new one in the 6-plus years I've had the car, so I just figured I'd lucked out for it to last that long. Installed new battery and drove home.
Next morning I made a 50 mile round trip to town, and following morning drove 6 miles to work, the had to go another 45 miles to finish out the day and another PO. Came out, started the car, turned on lights and headed home. Made it a couple of miles when dashlight, then headlights dimmed. Car slowed and died, but at least my Festy made it to a wide spot where I could get out of traffic. Ended up waitin' over 2 hours for a tow (my story about AAA will be told some other time) and since the fusible links looked okay and the alternator belt was still there, I guessed the alternator (probably the original) finally gave up the ghost. Put in a new one today, jumped the battery and the car fired right up.
Noticed some smoke and checked the links. Center one was hot to the touch. Felt the alternator and it was warm too. Not sure how much they heat up, I felt the one on the car from which I jumped the battery (still running) and it's alt. was still cool to the touch.
I did read the recent post about the fusible link block re-build, not sure if that might help, or if anybody here can steer me in the right direction. Sorry abut the length of the post, but I tried to include all pertinent details.

[pyrothehitman]

I amnot sure if this helps, but to test the alternator, turning the car on...and whenit is running, pull the red wires off the battery...if the car shuts off, the alt is bad.

[Pu241]

If your battery was still low from being drained by the faulty alternator (assumed at this point, not confirmed), then yes it will get hot. Your battery is calling for all the amps it can get to be recharged. So I would not be surprised that both the alternator and the main fusible link get hot. You really need to change those links for cartridge fuses.
I once left the lights on and killed the battery, had it jumped and she ran fine for about 10 miles then blew the 40A cartridge fuse. This happen 3 times before I finally made it home and the battery had enough charge not to pull more amps than the center fuse was meant to let pass.

[Pu241]

I amnot sure if this helps, but to test the alternator, turning the car on...and whenit is running, pull the red wires off the battery...if the car shuts off, the alt is bad.

Festyboy, please explain why, again this is bad!

Anytime an explanation uses the term "full field" it is interesting!

[milehighbear]

I know in the old old days when cars had generators you could take the positive cable off battery and if car continued running, it meant the generator was good but I don't think you can do that now a days with alternators. In old days generators had external regulators and alternators nowadays have built in regulators and diodes which you could burn out, I know first part is correct, but don't know for sure about second part on regulators, just trying to remember.

[zoom zoom]

I would like to know why that's a bad way to test an alternator, I don't know how many times I've done it with different vehicles.

[bugbor]

Boy, I want to thank all you guys for the quick responses. Best 50 bucks I've spent was for the 2 donations I've made to FF.com over the years.
Pu241 seems to have the answer. I'd put in a call for a mechanic friend. He just called me back and figured it was probably the battery being so low [when I waited for the tow truck, things were so dead that even the flashers (emergency, not trench coat-type) quit workin']. Not even enough power to run the radio for Monday night football.
He suggested I put the battery on a charger overnight, and go to fuses to replace the wire links.
BTW, this guy'll travel to fix a vehicle. Charges $20 to work at any location, plus the cost of repairs. He's even used my parts. Once did the rear brakes on the Festy in the parking ost while I was workin'.

[Pu241]

I would like to know why that's a bad way to test an alternator, I don't know how many times I've done it with different vehicles.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showpost.php?p=361680&postcount=19

Just because you've done it doen't make it right.
Also, you may not have killed an altornator, but could well have shortened the life of the regulator.
Festyboy does this for a living.
Gauge half inch also has some relavent input to this topic in the same thread the post above was taken from.

[Pu241]

Boy, I want to thank all you guys for the quick responses. Best 50 bucks I've spent was for the 2 donations I've made to FF.com over the years.

He suggested I put the battery on a charger overnight, and go to fuses to replace the wire links.
BTW, this guy'll travel to fix a vehicle. Charges $20 to work at any location, plus the cost of repairs. He's even used my parts. Once did the rear brakes on the Festy in the parking ost while I was workin'.

Your welcome, and glad you feel that way.

Use a trickle charger with an auto cutoff if you can. Will keep the plates from warping and my help extend the life of your new battery.

Keep that number, if he does good work he is more valuable than gold!

[pyrothehitman]

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...0&postcount=19

Just because you've done it doen't make it right.
Also, you may not have killed an altornator, but could well have shortened the life of the regulator.
Festyboy does this for a living.
Gauge half inch also has some relavent input to this topic in the same thread the post above was taken from.

I did not know that...ty.

I guess these old mechanic stories get passed down with no real references and people believe it like it was written in the bible.

For example, Everyone I know all say, dont put a battery on the ground because it will drain the battery. I've looked this up online and it seems to be a myth passed down and accepted. Maybe it will drain if it is dirty and sitting on cold concrete for months on end...but if your just pulling it for a week or so, then your fine.

[pyrothehitman]

Can someone explain how cold weather kills a battery, but the opposite is true for batteries in your fridge?/? They are both DC.

[pyrothehitman]

^^ sorry didnt mean to hijack your thread OP (<_>)

[FestYboy]

I amnot sure if this helps, but to test the alternator, turning the car on...and whenit is running, pull the red wires off the battery...if the car shuts off, the alt is bad.

edit: John put you on the right path already.

[bugbor]

Pu241 said:

"Keep that number, if he does good work he is more valuable than gold! "

Yeah, I've known him for years. He's a good enough mechanic that he kept USAF stuff in the air for about 4 years. When I came to this area about 30 years ago he was a mechanic at a local shop, then started his own. Got tired of the expenses and overhead and set up a cargo van to do mobile work. Has a lathe for turning drum 'n' stuff, gas generator for mobile power, and the knowledge to do most any job he chooses. I steer as much work his way as I can, and in a small town like this he has a great reputation.
Again, thanks guys.
BTW, may be gettin' rid of my parts car. '93 5-speed, needs seats, ignition lock and re-build. Most of the engine's there, but a/c was pulled and is sittin' in the back, needs r/r spindle replaced, and I can't remember what other little things. Has rear wiper/washer, body's in decent shape, all glass is good. No title, but I could probably do a lien on it, as it's been sitting here for about 5 years.
Anybody in NorCal interested in comin' to Butte County and just haulin' it away?
I"ll check back on this post every couple of days, or PM me.

[roadkyll]

another way to test your alternator is while the vehicle is running hold a screwdriver to the center of the alt and see if the alt acts like a magnet and trys holding the screwdriver there