i will adjust my camber with a camber bolt that it goes in the top of the strut bolt that attaches to the spindle. the top of the tire of my 1993 is tilted inward so i have to adjust it outward. have not done it yet but someone here may be able to explain it better.
Don't ever go to discount tire for anything, I went there to get my tires balanced on the Aspire, I'm sitting there inside waiting, I look over and see them rifling through my back hatch, I went out and asked WTF they were doing, they said we have to use your tire wrench, (the POS that came with the car, about 8 inches long) we don't have a socket to fit the lugs, OK, at that point I should have said hell no but I didn't, so this kid with arms about the size of a 50 cent piece starts breaking the lugs loose with my wrench, he got three tires off but the forth one was tight as hell, by the time he finished my wrench was history, and some of my lugs didn't look to cherry anymore. Then the worst part, they let the same kid put the bolts back on with my wrench that was cracked and would barly grip anymore, they had to take a hammer and beat the end down so it would grip the bolts. I left and immediatly called the corporate office, I don't deal with that stores manager cause hes an idiot, I had previous dealing with him, I told them they owe me a new wrench, new lugs and if a tires falls off on the way home I will sue the f*ck out of them.
I can't imagine a tire shop as big as them not having a socket to fit.
I also got an alignmnet too, here are the results:
LEFT- RIGHT
camber .01 - .04 (range .01 to 1.6)
caster 1.6 - 1.5 (range .9 to 2.4)
Toe -0.46 - -0.47 (range 0.02 to 0.26)
after adjustment
camber 1.0 - 0.8
caster no change
Toe 0.16 - 0.16
I knew the front tires were feathered but the pattern indicated a toe out, or so I thought,
the sharp edges were pointing to the outside and the inside edge had more wear. :?:
only toe is adjustable on the front of the stock Aspire/festy,
with a camber bolt kit (aftermarket modification) camber can be too
on the rear:
toe and camber can be adjusted by using backing plate shims (also aftermarket)
They adjusted my camber, its all stock, no camber kits, I asked how they did it but I forgot, something to do with the strut mounts.
Their printout did not show any readings on the rear, but there are specs listed. I would at least like to know if the rear is out, regardless if they can adjust it or not.
i forgot, there is a slight camber position change if you rotate the strut mount 180 degrees, but it is in or out , 2 positions and that is it.
Yea thats sounds like what they said. I think neg toe is toe in, someone once told me positive is either out or back depending on which, caster camber or toe. Like the steakhouse, outback. I got a degree in auto mechanics a few years ago but was never able to work as mechanic.
I guess the previous owner had a few once or twice with the toe being so far out. :lol:
I also got an alignmnet too, here are the results:
LEFT- RIGHT
camber .01 - .04 (range .01 to 1.6)
caster 1.6 - 1.5 (range .9 to 2.4)
Toe -0.46 - -0.47 (range 0.02 to 0.26)
after adjustment
camber 1.0 - 0.8
caster no change
Toe 0.16 - 0.16
I knew the front tires were feathered but the pattern indicated a toe out, or so I thought,
the sharp edges were pointing to the outside and the inside edge had more wear. :?:
The "after" specs look good ... the biggest problem with aligning Festy's is that the front lower control arm is located via the anti-roll bar bushing that passes through the arm... the bushings wear out (specifically the right side rots away to nothing with oil leaks from the front main crankshaft seal) and then you have the RF wheel arcing through a huge range of toe in under varying power settings..
I had to replace a failing tie-rod ball joint, and now need to check toe-in. Haynes doesn't have specs. I see on this thread ".02-.26." Is that toe-out, measured at the wheel rim edges, so that the rims are .02-.26 (inch, or is it mm???) farther apart at the front than at the rear, at axle level?
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