Squealing belt

[damacha1]

My belt lets out squeals when it's raining. I only started noticing this a few months ago when it rained, and only happens when it rains. I think it happens more often when I'm following a car and driving in their mist trail from their tires. When it squeals, I feel a little hesitation from the car. I also notice it gets worse when it's raining heavier, as opposed to a light rain or sprinkle.

Is this something I need to get looked at, or have the belt replaced? I've had the timing belt replaced two years ago, about 26k miles ago and the alternator belt tightened at the same time. I'm not very mechanically inclined, and to be honest I don't know exactly how many belts the car has, if more than the two I mentioned. My last tune-up was in april about 10k miles ago if it matters.

I did some googling, and saw someone say their car completely shut down when this happened to them, don't remember what type of car it was though, and I think it was an automatic, mine is a manual if it makes a difference. That's what I'm mostly worried about, the car shutting down on me on the freeway or something.

[Fordverde]

your splash guard may be missing.

[91mcnasty]

a simple re-tighten is in order, if you don't feel comfortable you could trick some autozone guys into helping!!! Haha

[blkfordsedan]

If it squeals, that means it's slipping. Slipping will cause the belt to get hot and also wear the sides of the belt and the sheaves (pulleys). Eventually, it can ruin the sheaves and effect battery charging. Worst case, it can also cause the belt to self destruct or come off while driving, in which case you will lose your water pump and overheat, possibly causing extensive engine damage.

Obviously, this all depends on the amount of slip or squeal. A little bit occasionally or momentarily isn't a huge deal, but its not something you want to happen continuously or let go unattended. You can try to retighten it and it may be OK, but if it's been slipping the belt is probably worn and glazed. That will require more tension to keep it from slipping, and too much tension is hard on the alternator and bearings. Belts are cheap, so I would just install a new one. It's a 5 minute job, so it shouldn't cost very much if you have it done by a shop. Do you have any family members or friends that could help you do it yourself?

[Movin]

All great advise, a new belt will need retensioned after a week or two as these cars
are not self tensioning. Once a year or so go to a recommended shop for a oil change
and this kind of thing along with many other things will be checked, Quick lubes are just that, you will only hear about the things that will add another dollar to the techs pocket.
Hang out here and you will learn about it yourself!

[WmWatt]

Belt may be glazed. Try reaching in and roughing up with steel wool or sandpaper. If you want to check tension do a search of this forum as it's been described a few times.

[zoom zoom]

Just fyi, if you pop your hood, there's 3 belts, one timing belt that should be under the 'timing belt covers', you won't see it...then there's one drivebelt, and one a/c belt. If you have a socket set you can get to and tighten the drivebelt and a/c belt pretty easily. Haynes manuals are great for stuff like this. G/l

[denguy]

When it's raining you probably turn on your wipers which increases your current draw and gets more drag from the alternator which increases the potential for belt slippage.

[Larry Hampton]

When my headlights are on and I run the heater I get a squeel. Turn the heater off, squeel stops. My belt isnt that old, anyone ever dress their pulleys?

[damacha1]

Okay, so I don't have a/c or power steering which means I only have the alternator/water pump and timing belts, correct? This problem wouldn't be an issue with the timing belt would it?

I have the haynes manual and glanced at the belt section so I have an idea of how to tighten it. It looks pretty straight forward, and I know where the belts are, my only worry is over-tightening.

I did a forum search and saw it should have about 1/2 inch deflection but the manual says to check with the factory specs of a used or new belt. It also shows what types of wear to look for, I'll just have to wait for a little bit of a warmer day to check.

I just checked my records and had the alternator belt replaced about 90k miles ago (manual says every 30k, heh) so I suppose it's about time to get it replaced anyway or try to do it myself. Now, if I do this myself, I can just go to autozone and pick up the correct belt and it shouldn't be too hard of a job right? Basically I would hope I wouldn't be able to mess things up so bad I would have to get it towed to my mechanic to get it fixed, lol.

[DriverOne]

The belt replacement is easy! Behind the alternator pulley you see two bolts, one a bit bigger than the other one. You'll want to loosen the smaller one with a 12mm or 15/19" socket and let the alternator slide forward. Change the belt, making sure you're lined up on all your pulleys. Then get a long screwdriver (or, I use the stock lug wrench) and pry between the alternator and the support. While you've got as much tension as you can get, tighten the bolt. You may want to check to see if there are torque specs for the alt. bolt. Good luck, and buy the best belt you can.

[WmWatt]

One of the easiest things you can do. I just followed the Haynes manual. To check deflection I lay a ruler on top of the belt and press down in the middle with another ruler. You could mark the deflection on a piece of wood and press down with that.
Yes, overtightening will stress the bearings which could ruin the alternator but there's no danger of that if you follow the manual. I keep the old belt under the driver's seat for emergencies.

[damacha1]

Allright, well I went out and bought the belt, and an air filter which was due as well (got it installed fine) but I can't loosen the bolts for the alternator belt. Should I spray some PB Blaster on them to loosen them up? I was going to, but didn't know if it would be a bad idea for the stuff to get into the alternator so I figured I'd check here first.

[Movin]

PB won't hurt

[denguy]

I try and be careful where I pry on the alternator because I worry about cracking the case. I try and use something wide as possible,wood [2x4] is good if you can get it in, to spread the pressure or chose a thick spot. If they have been sitting a while they can be hard to get moving. After I get the belt on I like to tighten it to where I have a 1/4" play in each direction in the middle. It is possible to tighten it to where it doesn't move at all but you will probabley lunch the bearings in the alt and the water pump when you run it.