Do rear drums have star wheel adjusters?

[FeistyFesti]

I would like to tighten up my rear drums because the E brake doesn't work at all. A little harder pedal wouldn't hurt either. Can we adjust the rear drums like most Ford rear drums by turning the star wheel adjusters or is it some different set up? Never worked on Festiva drums before but plenty of Fords, ie: Broncos, Mustangs (Fox Body), etc.

[daniel_cogar]

diff setup same concept

[drddan]

Your e-brake may be locked up from rust. Can you feel the brake pulling when you pull the e-brake handle? If not: The e-brake works by pulling a pivot type lever inside the drum. If the car sits for some time and rusts in there some, a lot of times the lever will become stuck, and may take getting inside the drum to spray it down with PB Blaster, working it free, and oiling it, to get it to work.

[TominMO]

I would like to tighten up my rear drums because the E brake doesn't work at all. A little harder pedal wouldn't hurt either. Can we adjust the rear drums like most Ford rear drums by turning the star wheel adjusters or is it some different set up? Never worked on Festiva drums before but plenty of Fords, ie: Broncos, Mustangs (Fox Body), etc.

....and get a Haynes manual, which you clearly don't have yet. Everyone needs one of these, as a minimum.

[hotfordcat]

You have to remove the drum. Inside you will find a spreader adjuster. Clean it up. Then use ANTISIEZE on it. While you're in there you can work on the e-brake as well. If you slide the adjuster to far you won't be able the reinstall the drum. It will take a few tries, but can be done.

[daniel_cogar]

make sure to re torque the rear nut correctly and one side is right hand thread and the other is left so dont go crazy with a impact taking it apart........be sure to re torque bc the wheel bearings are in the rear drum

[WmWatt]

Don't need to remove brake drum to check hand brake. It pivots on a pin (clevis pin) on the outside. That's where rust prevents it from working. You might be able to free it up without removing the drum. Mine were bad. I had to take the drum off and put the lever arm in a vise and apply penetrant and tap with a hammer over several days to break the rust. I replaced the clivis pins with ordinary bolts through which I drilled a hole to take a the cotter pin. Now I use the hand brake and lubricate the pin. It has not seized up again. It's a case of use it or lose it. I posted something here which might come up in a search.

[Nerd Racing]

I've had the other pivot pin cease on me but not the clevis pin so I think it depends on the situation.

[KingFish]

Iv had to deal with this a few times, i pulled the drums cleaned and lubed the brake bar w lots of pb heat and elbow grease replaced the clevis with bolt like you did and then readjusted the cable at the handle, it streached after the bar seized. i think 8 to 10 clicks is the spec for our cars. the adjuster nut is on the rear of the handle and can be reached thru the plasic cover, 10 mm i think.

[FeistyFesti]

Wow, awesome information. I never tried to tighten the nut by the handle, I'll tighten it a few turns to see if it will get better. The handle just pulls up super easy and car will still move thats why I was thinking it might need some tightening. Thanks for the advice.

[Pgh5spd]

You may have a broken cable, too. If you don't, when you get into everything, apply any kind of oil to the cable itself - where it runs to the two wheels. You'll save yourself many future headaches by doing that.