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FMS header and cam on a carb engine

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  • FMS header and cam on a carb engine

    Does anyone have the fms cam on a carb engine ? I was thinking about putting my cam and header on my 89 carb car ,and im looking for thoughts or ideas from those who have done it .
    I have searched and found alot of info but still trying to decide .
    Thanks
    New build on the way .

  • #2
    oh, OHHHH!!!! pick me PICK ME!! ::sticks arm WAY up in the air::

    what do you need/want to know?
    Trees aren't kind to me...

    currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
    94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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    • #3
      ^ lol
      Never Hire a Boy to do a Man's Job!!

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      • #4
        Ha Is it worth the effort or should i just install them on a fuel inj car ?
        When installing the header , what is the best ? Remove the pipe to the breather and block the end or is there another option ?
        With the cam should i go with solid or run hydro rockers ? Im told they perform better with the carb solid rockers
        New build on the way .

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        • #5
          ok, let me ask you this, what do you want to do with the engine (DD, short track, Drag...)? is the head worked over or stock? do you have access to a B3 header? do you have a different carb available? or are you suck with the stock B3 unit?
          Trees aren't kind to me...

          currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
          94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

          Comment


          • #6
            The engine will be stock all the way . Im thinking the cam is just the step up .
            And i have an fms header already .
            New build on the way .

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            • #7
              No racing .
              New build on the way .

              Comment


              • #8
                ok but is it the B3 or B6 header? if it's the B6, don't install it (too big). DO wrap the header and put a shield infront of it to keep spray off the pipes. the FMS cam will help a bit and will let you pull to 7k with the stock carb (though a 32/36 would be better for top end). the A.I.R. system can be bypassed as long as there's a hole through the cat (otherwise it WILL melt and plug up). just make sure your secondary is working well and you're good to go.

                oh and don't worry about the rockers, either will work fine and since this is a stock build, go with the hydro units.
                Last edited by FestYboy; 01-05-2012, 06:48 PM.
                Trees aren't kind to me...

                currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Its the b3 header . The terrain ill be running, i will need the low end more then top so im thinking this will help alot .
                  Thanks for the help and opinions ...
                  New build on the way .

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    My stock EFI cars all have a single O2 sensor in the exhaust manifold. If carb cars also have them I hope for your sake that an installation hole for that gizmo is there. Otherwise gas mileage is gonna drop like a stone. The ECU calls the shots and it relies on messages from the O2 sensor.

                    Back pressure is something I'm not overly experienced with but tuned-length pipes definitely improve (ie better and balanced flow) engine performance. But you need more air and gas going in to the motor in order to best achieve all that. What I don't like is all the extra noise that steel tubing allows through as opposed to castings. People expect noisy cars to go fast and consequently I have always gone in the other direction with any 'Q ships' I've ever been associated with. Bigger engines, bigger pipes and mufflers, and bigger carbs. Displacement is the cheapest power gain of all.
                    We all like to think we can simply re-invent engine technology but the car manufacturers are millions of dollars ahead of us in tinkering with the very same thing.

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                    • #11
                      ^ uhhh, WHAT!?!

                      Shade, if you're looking for torque, i recomend a spacer for the carb, you need to increase the port velocity to generate that torque. also, i recomend shaving the head .020" to get the compression up a bit more. along with that, you should invest in an adjustable cam gear (ones from BPs will work). and the last thing, run the setup with the stock exhaust manifold first and see if you like that. i ran Scrappys B6 (moded) with the B3 exhaust (complete with 1.5" id pipe) and it LIKED it up to about 4k (really smooth and even torque curve). switching to the B6 header killed the low end and idle quality, but WOW on the top end.
                      Trees aren't kind to me...

                      currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                      94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I would caution on wrapping the header....every one I've seen that has been wrapped has rusted out very, very quickly. If you can keep moisture out of the equation, then it will probably be O.K.. I would do it on a race car, but not a street car that is exposed to rain and/or humid environments.

                        I have a question on the adjustable BP cam gears: I know they will physically fit on a B3/B6, but does the BP have a round or square tooth belt? My 1st gen B6 has a small crank snout and uses a round tooth belt. I believe the later model B3/B6 with the larger crank snout uses a square tooth belt, and I assume the BP is the same. That said, I don't think I can use an adjustable BP cam gear on my 1st gen B6....
                        Does that sound correct??
                        Brian

                        93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
                        04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
                        62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

                        1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
                        Not enough time or money for any of them

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                        • #13
                          no, both are the same (round tooth)
                          Trees aren't kind to me...

                          currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                          94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by blkfordsedan View Post
                            I would caution on wrapping the header....every one I've seen that has been wrapped has rusted out very, very quickly. If you can keep moisture out of the equation, then it will probably be O.K.. I would do it on a race car, but not a street car that is exposed to rain and/or humid environments.
                            I have a BP with wrapped headers and so far so good. It helps with overheating. I guess it depends on the car and climate you are driving in.

                            -1989 festiva auto to standard conversion, bp g5mr white, aspire swap- October 2010 Festiva of the Month
                            -1993 festiva stock standard blue, kia rio front struts

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                            • #15
                              paint the headers with BBQ paint first and then wrapped them.

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