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front crank seal help please

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  • front crank seal help please

    I am replacing the front main seal on my 92 festiva, and was wondering how far in I should press the new seal in? I put it in to edge of the little bevel on the outside but I'm not sure if it should go in farther. also what is the best way to tighten up the bolt that holds the crankshaft timing sprocket? The engine is in the car so there is no space to get a socket on it. Thanks for any help in advanced

  • #2
    ive used the rope trick. feed a lenth of nylon rope down the spark plug hole when cyl 1 is starting its compression stroke. as you bring the motor to tdc it will lock the motor in place so you can tighten the bolt. when its tight just reverse the motor and remove the rope.

    hope this helps
    I know its a piece of crap but im still faster...and its 100% legal!!!!!

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    • #3
      There should be a cover to access the bolt through the passenger wheel well. You can also remove the passenger motor mount and lower the engine a little bit to access the bolt with a socket.
      The Festiva Store
      Specializing in restoration, tuning and custom parts.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by nonamekid View Post
        There should be a cover to access the bolt through the passenger wheel well. You can also remove the passenger motor mount and lower the engine a little bit to access the bolt with a socket.
        This ^^^ is the safest way, then remove the starter and lock the
        flywheel teeth
        If there is a groove on the crank press the seal in enough to make a new groove
        otherwise as long as it is square to the bore you are in enough.
        Last edited by Movin; 01-09-2012, 11:52 AM.
        Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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        • #5
          To answer your first question, it should be even with the raised area around the bore. so use a wide punch to prevent it from going too deep. I always use an impact wrench on the bolt with the motor lowered slightly. Any other way feels like it's breaking something.

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          • #6
            ^^ don't do that.
            No festiva for me ATM...

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            • #7
              Originally posted by htchbck View Post
              ^^ don't do that.
              Don't do what?

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              • #8
                The seal should be flush with the rised area around it. And to tighten the bolt if you don't have a impact is to remove the motor mount and lower the engine a bit and the put the car in 5th and either wedge a board on the brakes or have a buddy help. The engine won't move on ya then.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by georgeb View Post
                  Don't do what?
                  Don't use an impact to install the bolt.
                  Last edited by htchbck; 01-09-2012, 01:17 PM.
                  No festiva for me ATM...

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by htchbck View Post
                    Don't use an impact to install the bolt.
                    That's right, impacts should never be used to install bolts, unless you have a torque stick on it.
                    The Festiva Store
                    Specializing in restoration, tuning and custom parts.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by nonamekid View Post
                      That's right, impacts should never be used to install bolts, unless you have a torque stick on it.
                      Agreed... but even then, only for things like wheel studs/nuts, motor mounts, etc. (ie. things requiring a fairly high but not necessarily precise torque). Never on a something like a crank bolt.
                      No festiva for me ATM...

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                      • #12
                        "Agreed... but even then, only for things like wheel studs/nuts, motor mounts, etc. (ie. things requiring a fairly high but not necessarily precise torque). Never on a something like a crank bolt."

                        Oops. That's how I tightened mine when I replaced my wrong crank seal and was losing gobs of oil. Then again, when I had to remove my oil pan to find the oil pickup tube had come loose--I thought I would have to replace a bad oil pump!

                        Karl
                        '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
                        '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
                        '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
                        '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
                        '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

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                        • #13
                          Thanks for the super fast replies, you guys rock. just got her all buttoned back up, hopefully I will use less oil then fuel this time around. I managed to put the car in 5th then propped a piece of 2x4 between the seat and the brake pedal to hold the motor worked great. I'm not to sure about the impact driver on a crankshaft that seems like a lot of hammering. I managed to do the whole job without lowering the motor

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