need ideas

[Jacob]

My 91 efi has been dying random points and have done lots of work to attempt getting it fixed, started with the basics of oil change plugs wires air oil fuel filters and then got into some bigger stuff, changed throttle possition sensor (to used one) ignition distributor module (used as well) to the ignition coil pack as well. we checked the entire fuel lines as it seems to be a fuel problem when it spits and sputters before it dies sometimes. then decided to change the fuel pump in itself.(new fuel pump) at some point there was an oil leak around the timing belt area and the gasket was coming out and looking pretty bad, so i have a new one those (not put in yet)
but runs great when not spitting and sputtering and stuff. when it dies and downshift it doesnt alwayse catch and bring itself back. sometimes it goes all the way to a dead stop and takes three or four minutes to start up again. but it has never failed to start up after a good waiting period. it usually acts up more as the engine heats up, runs better in winter untill its been runing for awhile. milage is over 200,000

[navdoc101]

That was happin' to my festy awhile back. I thought it was the VAF so got a new one, still happened. Was just gonna live with it. Changed the O2 sensor (was original) with a Denso unit & it mysteriosly stopped acting up. Hope that helps.

[Movin]

Unplug the O2 and see if it acts up.

[Jacob]

OK i will definitely give it a try but not soon, its cold out and since it runs better in cold, it wont make much sense. i will definitely report back tho. thanks lots

[Jacob]

ok so i cant seem to disconect it, its stuck, so maby thats part of the problem, but i also noticed that the wires to the crank shaft sensor are frayed, would that do it as well? there not bad yet its in the begining stage of opening up.

[Movin]

It could ?? don't know, try insulating with liquid tape. The o2 can get melted plastic in the connector and make
disconnect hard. It can also affect the connection. If disconnected it will not run perfect but close, it will make
the problem go away if that is what it is. About the crank sensor, you are talking the wires into the bottom of
the disty? A member on here with an appreciation for old timber would suggest wiggling the big electrical
connector on the air filter and seeing if the engine surges or dies.

[windy1]

stops

try a new fuel pressure regulator. and professionally clean the fuel injectors.
i put 4 oz. of fuel injector cleaner in tank,every time i fill up. u could drain/refill gas tank. too much water in tank.

[Pu241]

try a new fuel pressure regulator. and professionally clean the fuel injectors.

Now that's "good" advise.
Just keep changing parts till it's fixed.
Windy1, you got an extra FPR for him to swap out?
What about a set of freshly cleaned injectors?
These things are not cheap.

Best thing is to see what suggestions along the lines of diagnose and repair/replace as necessary!
As you already know you've spent good money replacing parts and you still have the problem.
See what rolls in here and what can be done testing wise and/or for cheap to get to the heart of the matter.
Good luck!

[JoDan]

try a new fuel pressure regulator. and professionally clean the fuel injectors.
i put 4 oz. of fuel injector cleaner in tank,every time i fill up. u could drain/refill gas tank. too much water in tank.

That's about as general as saying it's definitely a bad fuel pump when your car won't start and has spark.

[nitrofarm]

Crank Shaft Sensor ?

ok so i cant seem to disconnect it, its stuck, so maybe thats part of the problem, but i also noticed that the wires to the crank shaft sensor are frayed, would that do it as well? there not bad yet its in the beginning stage of opening up.

Hello Jacob, when you said Crank Shaft Sensor it kind threw me. But maybe you are referring to the Crank Position Sensor wire @ the Disty housing? Can you expound on this? Festy's don't have one external near the crank.But maybe you know this.
Anyway there have been quite a few members that have similar INTERMITTENT power loss due too the VAF plug.Clean & tight connections are a must. Have you dug into this sensor for troubleshooting yet? What can happen is one of the small wires in that plug actually gets pushed back wards. Then when the plug gets connected it looks good. But that one connector doesn't have a solid connection.Thus causing intermittent problems.Also check the ground for the VAF.Its located all the way over on the block by the Thermostat housing.Its the Big ring terminal. Check and see if maybe the ring needs replacing or corrosion removed so as to get a good connection. Good Luck

[windy1]

dies

sorry my advise was so general, can u get a mechanic, to diagnose it?

[nitrofarm]

sorry my advise was so general, can u get a mechanic, to diagnose it?

Its all good Dude,you just got run over by the Engineer of the "Pain Train" thats all.

[Jacob]

I cannot currently get pictures to help with the location, i believe we are thinking of the same things when said crank sensor because it is in the distributor behind the cap on top, very easy to reach and wiggle the wires. i do know that from the book i have the idea is correct for location and stuff. and the check said crank sensor so it could very well be.

i will definetly try wigling the wires on the air filter as you asked me to earlier and report back.

about the tank i have drained the tank once before a few years ago but if it comes down to it i might as well try again.

getting parts is no problem i love the car still and dont care how much it costs over time.

nitrofarm, i am have not looke dinto the crank specifically yet, but im not sure what you are talking about either, i am sorry.

i hope to update more soon

[nitrofarm]

Jacob,do you have access to a used Dizzy? If your wires are frayed on the Dizzy. Most likely its the culprit.

[Jacob]

no one i know has ever heard of a dizzy, can you elaborate