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Why is my festy veering right when I decelerate?

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  • Why is my festy veering right when I decelerate?

    I'm new to my 92 festy. Its my first festiva and I was wondering if the following is normal in festivas... When I'm driving down the road going usually between 35-50, my festy drives pretty straight until I let off the gas. When i let off the gas, it instantly veers to the right. The guy I bought it from said he had an alignment done on it, so I thought I would put sufficient air in those lil tires. I put 32lbs in each one, but it seemed to have no effect. I understand that this issue probably isn't directed specifically towards festivas, but I'm sure someone here will have a suggestion to what the problem is.

  • #2
    Brakes are dragging!
    Last edited by zoom zoom; 01-15-2012, 11:30 PM.
    2008 Kia Rio- new beater
    1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
    1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
    1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
    1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
    1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
    1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
    1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



    "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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    • #3
      Someone else I told about this issue suggested that and to be honest i was hearing some scratching from them but wouldn't I smell brakes while driving down the road?

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      • #4
        Nah probably not, you need to take the front right tire off and look at the brakes, there's a number of things it might be, but one of the biggest thing is the retainer clip that pushes the brakes back when the caliper isn't compressing them. (most people neglect to put them back on after changing brake pads, myself included before I knew better) With an issue like your having it could be something like a warped rotor or seized caliper (which I doubt.) It would literally be impossible for anyone to really know without taking a look! Snap some pics if you don't see anything obvious wrong.

        This is a good time to invest in a haynes manual, check out amazon.com sometimes you get used manuals for a penny+3.99 s&h!

        Also, at your earliest convienience, you need to jack up the rear and wd-40 or pbblast the emergency brake levers inside the rear drums, they are notorious for rusting and not fully disengaging, seizing/dragging, which will really hurt your gas milage!
        Last edited by zoom zoom; 01-16-2012, 12:04 AM.
        2008 Kia Rio- new beater
        1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
        1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
        1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
        1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
        1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
        1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
        1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



        "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

        Comment


        • #5
          I recall reading about worn sway bar bushings causing your problem.

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          • #6
            If the caliper were dragging you only have to touch the wheel near the hub, it will be hot.

            As georgeb said worn sway bar bushings are suspect.

            I have also had the Lower Control Arms bushing seize to the bolt causing this same effect. It also required the bolt to be cut in two places to removed.
            Last edited by Pu241; 01-16-2012, 08:51 AM.
            '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
            '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
            '92 Aqua parts Car
            '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
            '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

            "Your God of repentance will not save you.
            Your holy ghost will not save you.
            Your God plutonium will not save you.
            In fact...
            ...You will not be saved!"

            Prince of Darkness -1987

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            • #7
              Sway bar bushings... if it were brakes you wouldn't be driving straight at all.

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              • #8
                Swaybar bushings sounds like good advice, but still, since you've just bought this one, check your brakes out - at least take it out 26 or 81 (I have friends down near you) and drive a few miles where you don't need to do any braking. Then come to a gentle stop and feel the wheels for heat. I haven't bought a Festiva yet that didn't need brake work. The rear brakes seemed tight on the most recent one, which I brought home on a tow dolly due to the ~180mi distance involved, and so I pulled the drums on site to loosen up the adjusters to avoid smoking drums on the way back. The linings fell off the shoes when I got the drums off!

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                • #9
                  So if brakes were my prob, I could drive it awhile without braking, slowly come to a stop, get out, walk around and just feel the wheel, near the hub I guess, and check to see if it were hot or warm?

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                  • #10
                    ^ yep be-careful they can be very hot (that's if they were really dragging) but then you would definitely know it lol

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                    • #11
                      Mine was pulling to one side and it turned out to be the slider pins in one caliper were sticking. I took both sides apart, cleaned them, put on a little antiseize, problem solved.

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                      • #12
                        Check all front suspension bushings and motor mounts.

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                        • #13
                          Bushings.

                          You say let off the gas. The shift in weight causes the wheels to move out of alignment. The shop who did the alignment should have found the problem but they might have been in a hurry.

                          Jack up the car on the frame, put a jack stand under it too for security.
                          Now try to move the wheel around. I bet you find play in something.
                          Rodney

                          1991 FI 5 Speed Aqua Blue

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by rbrown View Post
                            Bushings.

                            You say let off the gas. The shift in weight causes the wheels to move out of alignment. The shop who did the alignment should have found the problem but they might have been in a hurry.

                            Jack up the car on the frame, put a jack stand under it too for security.
                            Now try to move the wheel around. I bet you find play in something.
                            The lower ball joints when worn but not dangerous will wiggle causing this
                            driving symptom, as can the sway bar bushings. With the car in the air
                            and suspension extended, all will check tight even though they are slightly
                            worn beyond limits. Check the car while on alignment plates with the pins
                            pulled..suspension at normal conditions. Test for play and the worn parts
                            will show up.

                            Better still:

                            Save money, if the parts look old just get them and put then on
                            then go in for your alignment.
                            Last edited by Movin; 01-18-2012, 11:00 AM.
                            Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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