Weber choke issues help

[nitrofarm]

My Weber has not been running well with the cold weather. Chokes, for some reason are "mysterious" to me ...somewhat.
Car is down in MPG's, and after running on the highway, and getting off at an exit, rpm's drop WAY down, and the car wants to die. After a few minutes of running on street speeds, it starts to run more normally.
Doing a little troubleshooting, I have (with engine off) kicked the throttle and watched the choke flaps shut as they should, and watched the flaps open as it warms. (good operation)
I checked voltage to the choke, and am only getting 7.11/7.12 volts at choke wire. Choke wire is still from orig, location at the alt. Should be 12V
Anyone have any idea what is going on?
I had orig. adjusted it in summer, at install, 1 1/2 yr ago, and all was good last winter. This just started this winter. Any help is appreciated, and Thanks in advance!

Dan

I have some other ideas besides the choke.IAnyway what is the postion of the choke when its been running & warmed up.And whats its postion when it starts running poorly. GET OUT and LOOK. Dont just guess ok. Good luck

[zoe60]

I've measured my choke voltage and it is the same as yours. I don't think your alt is bad. My choke always opens fully after about 4 minutes. I have the same set up you do and my car can be cold natured, but with mine I think it's more about the fast idle than the choke itself. I like my Weber but the idle can be finicky. Sometimes too low sometimes a little too high. Mine idles too low until it warms up. I feel confident my problem is not because of the choke plate. If you increase the voltage it will open faster. PM me if you would like to compare notes.

[drddan]

Ok, lots of advice, and answers to a few questions.
1-Choke plates move freely.
2-Plates snap shut at start up, open in about 3 minutes.
3-Have not yet checked the plates position when it starts wanting to die after getting off the highway. (have been wanting to)
4-May not be all a choke issue - Applying the brakes REALLY drops the rpm, at ANY time. I mean like ....400+ rpm drop
I am suspecting the ALT, it is original. 250,000 miles! LOL
5- Maybe its the alt screwing with choke when I apply brakes????

What gets me is everything is staying charged and no problem starting.

If only the dang alt adjust bolthead wasnt stripped! :p
I have no problem with removing/drilling/breaking the bolt or whatever, its just that i'm the one who has to do it!

[Movin]

Take the belt off the alt or pull your STOP fuse
start the car and step on the brake..does the idle
still drop 400 RPM ?

[nitrofarm]

Also check the blower motor

This may sound very RANDOM. But pull the fuse for the blower. I had the EXACT same problem. And it turned out to be the blower motor. Replaced it and it fixed 90% of the idle surge/drop. The blower puts a large E load on the system.If its junk it'll cause E headaches.

[zoe60]

This may sound very RANDOM. But pull the fuse for the blower. I had the EXACT same problem. And it turned out to be the blower motor. Replaced it and it fixed 90% of the idle surge/drop. The blower puts a large E load on the system.If its junk it'll cause E headaches.

Good idea, mine always idles slower with a lot of electrical load.

[drddan]

Take the belt off the alt or pull your STOP fuse
start the car and step on the brake..does the idle
still drop 400 RPM ?

This may sound very RANDOM. But pull the fuse for the blower. I had the EXACT same problem. And it turned out to be the blower motor. Replaced it and it fixed 90% of the idle surge/drop. The blower puts a large E load on the system.If its junk it'll cause E headaches.

Hmmm....These sound interesting. I will try pulling these fuses (one at a time, of course) and see what transpires < ryhmes with Aspire. (Heh heh heh!)

Thanks guys!

[Movin]

Don't switch them, something might expire.

[zoe60]

I wonder if the choke is not really the problem. May want to check for vacuum leaks although a vac leak would probably make the idle higher. Also you might want to take out the idle jet and clean it. Might also check float level. Easy on a weber. Some day I'm gonna get a fuel injected car an learn something new. lol.

[windy1]

might be,u, have 2 problems? alternator or battery /electric chokes need replaced,from time to time. when they need replaced,i convert to a manual choke,with pull cable. rebuild your carb? see if your accelerator pump diaphram is dry rotted. carb float might have a leak. check alternator,and test your battery,and al. belt first. ive used webers for years,without any problems. convert to a man. choke. PIERCE MANIFOLDS sells weber parts.i stopped using webers,cause of gas milege,otherwise,id still have one.luck,dude. mdoyleufo@gmail,com

[drddan]

Thanks. I have a rebuild kit already, waiting on nicer weather, but i'm beginning to think this may be alt related, since rpms' drop under load. (headlights and stepping on brake drop rpm's)
What i'd like to do is jack up the carb, and slide a new engine under it. :p

[denguy]

I like the idea of the manual choke, thought about putting one on to control air-fuel ratio while tuning my Ford-Weber carb.

[georgeb]

If it's running crappy when warm it's not the choke (if it opens all the way).

[zoe60]

With the original carb there was the vacuum thing that increased RPMs for the air conditioner and the electrical load. Since it is not on your new carb it is pretty normal for the RPMs to drop when you have a lot of electric stuff going. I was able to straighten out the bracket and mount it with my Weber. It works great with the Air, but I don't use the electrical load part. My RPMs drop some with the lights on, but it's not too bad. I put a switch on the dash that turns on the electric load part and I use that in the morning when the engine is cold. Works ok for me. I want fuel injection!

[drddan]

Some research was done, and here's what I found with a multimeter:

1) battery looked good before starting with 12.5v - did start dropping leaving the meter sitting there for a bit to 12.3v
2) at start battery cranked at 10v+ (indicating a good battery)
3) engine running showed as 14.5v at first then dropped and steady at
14.05v/14.1v
4) turning on the lights dropped it into the low 13v range
5) lights on and then stepping on the brake pedal dropped it into the low 12v range

Looks to me like the alternator is toast. Or to be toast very soon.
Anyone agree?