Throughout the past few months, I have replaced nearly every mechanical component on my poor Festiva. I am finally nearing the completion of my project but I have run into one of my final obstacles. My engine leaks a decent amount of oil, but only when running (I would say about a cup every 20 min.). The oil drips off of a lip on the oil pan directly under the oil pump leading me to believe that the pump seal is to blame. I have searched all over the block for other possibilities, but besides some residual oil around the valve cover I cant find anything. It is also difficult to see the pump unit itself to narrow down because of the plastic timing cover on the bottom half. My main question is, has anyone ever had any luck with oil additive stop leak and if so, what brand? In tech school, I have always been taught to stay away from such products :nono: and to fix things the right way, but I am becoming impatient and want to get this car on the road finally!
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Any luck with engine stop leak?
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with a leak that bad, the additives won't do you any good, the seal is too far gone; replace it.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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The cam and crank seals are not hard to replace at all with a few more than basic hand tools. An impact is helpful to remove the crank pulley main bolt a chain wrench is helpful when removing the cam gear. The chain wrench can be bought at harbor freight for around $20Im not driving a Festiva because I'm poor. I drive a Festiva because i want to!
Dennis
93 L Advancedynamics suspension mod, awaiting B6 swap
91 GL B6 sohc, currently in the hands of DAE undergoing top secret work. Soon to be cable G, with stage 3 F1 Kevlar clutch... To be continued
93 GL In progress BP/hydro G
15 Mitsubishi Mirage daily
88 Dakota tow pig
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The best part about all of this is when I rebuilt the engine, the crank seal on the pump was the only seal I neglected to replace. The fact that I have an aspire engine installed may give me a little trouble. The crank pully is much larger due to the serpentine vs the festiva's stock v belt configuration. I figure goin through the wheel well is the only way to go? Can the oil pump be removed without dropping the oil pan?2002 Ford Mustang GT Mineral Grey 5 spd
1996 Ford Explorer XLT AWD White POS
1992 Ford Festiva GL Metallic Blue 5 spd
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oil pump... no, you'll have to take off the pan i believe!1992 white L, Bp, American racing 13's, stock trans.
1991 White L, BP/F5MR, protege header, full aspire swap with gr2's, seats, and sway bar, 15" konig's, short throw, escort console.
1991 blue L, 5 speed.
1988 red L-plus-all stock.
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You don't need to remove the pump to change the seal, just delicately use a small screwdriver and POP it out, then gently tap the new one in evenly around and around. Pack the back side with some grease to avoid damaging the lip portion of the seal.Im not driving a Festiva because I'm poor. I drive a Festiva because i want to!
Dennis
93 L Advancedynamics suspension mod, awaiting B6 swap
91 GL B6 sohc, currently in the hands of DAE undergoing top secret work. Soon to be cable G, with stage 3 F1 Kevlar clutch... To be continued
93 GL In progress BP/hydro G
15 Mitsubishi Mirage daily
88 Dakota tow pig
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DON'T remove the oil pump. Lower the engine a little on the passenger side and remove the pulleys. Sometimes hub must be removed also. Need impact or way to hold motor. Slide idler pulley outward (to loosen belt) and remove timing belt. Sprocket slides off exposing seal. Poke tiny hole (closer to bore than crank) and screw in tiny screw. Pry out seal. Put motor oil on lip of seal and tap into bore until flush with raised arc around bore. Reinstall sprocket and belt. Check belt timing.
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If it is leaking that bad, you should also check the journal surface on the crank snout where the seal rides. It may very well be grooved or wore badly, in which case the new seal will wear out very quickly. If the journal surface is grooved, you can install a Speedi-Sleeve along with the new seal. That will ensure the new seal has the proper wear surface to provide a proper seal and long life. If the shaft surface looks smooth & clean, then you're fine to just replace the seal.
FWIW- unless the surface looks "perfect" or I don't plan on keeping the car very long, I always install a Speedi-Sleeve on both the front and rear crank seals if I have them apart. I really hate oil leaks, and the crank seals are prone to leaking due to their nature.Last edited by blkfordsedan; 02-01-2012, 04:55 PM.Brian
93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC
1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
Not enough time or money for any of them
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leak
whatever engine seals that u,havent replaced yet,replace them DUH?
it s probably the maim seal. or a valve cover seal. im telling u,replace every seal,on the engine. no bull stinky's . get a garage mechanic,to do it. i dont cut cornrs,when it comes to leaks.Last edited by Pu241; 02-01-2012, 08:28 PM.
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Originally posted by Ford Fester View PostI have never tried that stop leak stuff but have heard bad stuff about it. I would check your front crank seal to make sure thats not leaking.
My moms car still dosent leak at all after over a year. I have tryed Lucas and not had any good results. White Sheppard will give your money back if it dosent work but follow the directions!
88 festiva lx, 2.3 turbo rwd swap in progress
1999.5 f-350 4x4 7.3 gtp38r 5" exhaust ect.
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00' western star flat top ex, 600hp 6nz 2250tq, 18918b, 3.55, full lockers, 6" straight pipes
03' gt, full termi swap 700+ whp build
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