Need help: Un-drivable engine tick

[timmay89]

So my festiva has a BP engine in it. I rebuilt the engine about 1.5 years ago. I never rebuilt the cylinder head though. After about 30,000 miles on the engine it is now un-drivable. So the engine always had a small tick coming from the cylinder head area. Well a week ago that tick decided to get louder. I checked the oil, it was nice and clean and at a good level. Yesterday that tick got alot louder. I checked the oil levels again and yep still good. Well when driving it, that tick was joined by a second tick that ticked twice as fast to the point where one would almost think that something was grinding. I put some Sea Foam in it hoping that would somewhat thin the oil and unblock whatever was blocked. That not helping I popped off the valve cover and there was oil in the cylinder head. I decided to just drive the car home, well it didn't make it home. The ticking got so bad that I parked it on the side of the road and had it towed.

Now I need help with two things:
1. what's going on with this? and
2. Is it more cost effective to a. rebuild the cylinder head myself, b. put a junkyard cylinder head on it, or c. get it professionally rebuilt?

Thoughts, comments, ideas?

[Rocketman]

You sure it isn't a rod knock? It's very unusual for something in the head to all of a sudden start ticking 2x faster

I'd investigate the bottom end a bit, but if it is the head I'd throw a junkyard head on, maybe freshen it up a bit before throwing it on

Can you get a video of the noise?

[georgeb]

Rod knocks will be loudest when letting off the gas slightly if that's any help. I would check for excessive valve lash at several different crank positions and go from there. Never had a BP so I don't know of any head/valve problems.

[timmay89]

I will try to video it when I work on it on the weekend. The noise seemed to be loudest when accelerating, but it could have been loudest when letting off the gas slightly... So step 1 here is to take off the head and so how the bottom end looks?

When you say rod knock, you are referring to a piston rod correct?

[georgeb]

Rod knock is usually the big end of the connecting rod is wasted. Best looked at with oil pan removed and feeling for looseness. But not until top-end problem is ruled out. Bottom-end issues are more major unless it just needs a rod bearing insert (doubtful).

[Rocketman]

The connecting rod, not at the piston end but the other side of it. When the bearing where it bolts around the crank fails, you get play/slop between the rod and the crank. (could happen due to various reasons) It gets exponentially worse as it hammers the bearing out more, gets really loud, and will eventually break something, usually the rod, and throw it through the block

Try pulling the valvecover first and look for collapsed lifters.

You can check the rods by pulling the oil pan, and wiggling the rod ends on the crank. If it moves, that'd be it

[Movin]

There are several discussions about noise, here is a factory bulletin # 008/93
the bulletin keeps on going for another page or two.

[Movin]

There are several discussions about noise, here is a factory bulletin # 008/93

[timmay89]

Hey, so big update. It turned out to be one of the piston rod bearings that was making noise. Sasquatch came over and we took off the oil pan and one of the pistons had alot of play. The bearing was still in it, but just a bit thinner than a pop can. So in the course of 18 hours Sasquatch and I took out the old engine and replaced it with another. Thanks Sasquatch for ALL of your help!!!!!!!!