Going to stop on the way home and get some. What size is the rubber hose going to the carb?
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Fuel line diameter
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got some fuel line to remove the stupid 90 degree bend in the factory line cause I thought that may be the cause of the dieing when stopping issue, but it didn't work so on the the next item.Early 99 F350 ex. cab longbox Powerstroke 6 spd, manual tranfer case and hubs 190k
2009 ford flex
2002 ford Ranger 4.0l, 6" lift, 35x12.50x15 super swampers
1994 F150 4.9l, 5spd, 2wd
1988 Festiva 1.3l, 4 spd, 184k
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yeah they do! factory carbs have a dashpot. i'm betting his kickdown adjustment is out of wack and it doesn't actually idle on the base idle step EXCEPT when he comes to a stop from just off idle. that being said, that has to be fixed first before the base idle screw gets touched.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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Somethings out of wack. High idle is way to high when its cold and idle after it reaches operating temp seems way to low.
I think the art of carb tuning is a lost art these days. I need to put a tach on it to see what it actually idles at when cold and at operating temp.
If it were a diesel it would be so much easier to figure out. LolEarly 99 F350 ex. cab longbox Powerstroke 6 spd, manual tranfer case and hubs 190k
2009 ford flex
2002 ford Ranger 4.0l, 6" lift, 35x12.50x15 super swampers
1994 F150 4.9l, 5spd, 2wd
1988 Festiva 1.3l, 4 spd, 184k
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Turn up the idle like I suggested in post # 4 to where it will idle healthy. You don't need a tach. If the cold idle is excessively high there is a screw on the driver's side rear to adjust it. It's the screw you can get to from above. Mine idles really high when cold also but I'll live with it for now.
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