Any Ideas?

[hrbballman]

Well it completely died on me last night while driving the engine stalled. Tried to restart it several times but check engine light was on. I let it sit for ten or so and then it started right up with no CEL on. The guys at the ford dealership said if it isn't VAF replace CPS if not that then replace VAT. I'm not good with acronyms...Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've replaced VAF thus far.

[DON SVO]

Fusible links would be a great place to check... something is shorting to ground or is building up a lot of heat which turns into resistance in the circuit.

Sounds like resistance in an electrical circuit. I'd suspect either fuseable links are corroded and building up resistance, or you have a ground in the PCM circuit that's not tight/not making good contact. All signs point (to me anyway) to corrosion in the ignition circuit.

CEL comes on when the car dies while it's KOEO. That's normal.

On another note, find someone who really is good with electrical diag and let them help. Throwing a shitload of parts at it won't solve anything except padding Vato Zone's bottom line I've diag'd quite a few cars for friends and nothing sucks more than someone driven bonkers after throwing a fuel pump/MAF/IAC/injectors/PCM at an ignition problem, and I come along and find a loose ground on the fuel pump relay circuit.

[crazyrog17]

Well it completely died on me last night while driving the engine stalled. Tried to restart it several times but check engine light was on. I let it sit for ten or so and then it started right up with no CEL on. The guys at the ford dealership said if it isn't VAF replace CPS if not that then replace VAT. I'm not good with acronyms...Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've replaced VAF thus far.

CPS - camshaft position sensor, located in the distributor. Check the harness plug and wires. Replace with test unit if possilble.

No idea what the VAT is, never heard of one in a Festiva.

[DON SVO]

CPS - camshaft position sensor, located in the distributor. Check the harness plug and wires. Replace with test unit if possilble.

No idea what the VAT is, never heard of one in a Festiva.

VAT is Vane Air Temp, it's located in the VAF (which he replaced)

Stop throwing parts at it. Do you have a test light and/or a multi-meter?

[hrbballman]

VAT is Vane Air Temp, it's located in the VAF (which he replaced)

Stop throwing parts at it. Do you have a test light and/or a multi-meter?

Unfortunately I do not. I'm a full time student so I don't really have tools or the time to meet up with anyone. As you can tell, I have almost zero mechanical know-how. Where are the fusible links and is changing them out hard? also, the vehicle no longer likes to idle. It seems to idle to low once I take my foot off the accelerator then it dies sometimes. Other times it will idle fine once I take my foot off the gas. Would turning up the idle speed possibly help? Thanks.

[Charlie1717]

Unfortunately I do not. I'm a full time student so I don't really have tools or the time to meet up with anyone. As you can tell, I have almost zero mechanical know-how. Where are the fusible links and is changing them out hard? also, the vehicle no longer likes to idle. It seems to idle to low once I take my foot off the accelerator then it dies sometimes. Other times it will idle fine once I take my foot off the gas. Would turning up the idle speed possibly help? Thanks.

The fusible links are located in the back right of the engine bay (more in the middle right I suppose) You will see three fuses in a row. They are 3 wires. You can replace them with the plastic prong style fuses. 2 seconds to do you just need to acquire the fuses.

As for the idle issue. Doesn't sound like the idle screw is the issue but I'm not to sure. Maybe your Idle air control? Someone else will have a better idea.

[TominMO]

Try to get it over to gauge_half_inch, who coincidentally also lives in Indy. He could help you a lot with repairs and general instruction about what's under the hood.

[DON SVO]

Unfortunately I do not. I'm a full time student so I don't really have tools or the time to meet up with anyone. As you can tell, I have almost zero mechanical know-how. Where are the fusible links and is changing them out hard? also, the vehicle no longer likes to idle. It seems to idle to low once I take my foot off the accelerator then it dies sometimes. Other times it will idle fine once I take my foot off the gas. Would turning up the idle speed possibly help? Thanks.

It sounds more and more like fusible links. Mine did the same thing when I had the air filter on my custom intake wear thru the wire insulation on all 3. If the filter sat just right, it would provide a half-@$$ ground between them, my idle would go to crap and it would struggle to accelerate with light throttle. If I stomped on it it would be OK because the filter would move as the engine torqued over.

I think the big issue on fusible links is corrosion causing a lot of resistance in the fuel pump circuit and ignition circuit. Once the car is warmed up, it causes all kinds of havoc.

[91mcnasty]

If she can make it over here, we will swap parts until we find the culprit. If it won't make it down here I still have dennis's tow bar and my mothers truck to pull it from Indy, it would only be about 20 bucks in gas. Or I could bring it home for good . I'll work with you to get her on the road a festy friend in need is a festy friend indeed!!!

[hrbballman]

I've already replaced the fusible links. I thought that was what you were refering to but I wasn't sure. I have a light blue on then a pink in the middle then another light blue one(as advised by Guage_half_inch,Dennis). I Don't remember the numbers right now. I'll switch them all out just in case. Kaleb that would be great. I'll get her up there, however, it may take a little while. I'll PM you soon. Thanks

[Charlie1717]

If need be you guys could always meet at my place I know Kaleb wants to raid my garage and it is closer to Bloomington. Or are you actually in Indy? I can't remember. Anyway if you need any parts let me know I'd be happy to help get her driving well again.

[DON SVO]

I've already replaced the fusible links. I thought that was what you were refering to but I wasn't sure. I have a light blue on then a pink in the middle then another light blue one(as advised by Guage_half_inch,Dennis). I Don't remember the numbers right now. I'll switch them all out just in case. Kaleb that would be great. I'll get her up there, however, it may take a little while. I'll PM you soon. Thanks

If Kaleb has a multi-meter, I would diag it there.

Her's the kicker: a resistance problem not showing up until it's warm means that you basically have to wait for the symptoms to show up first

[91mcnasty]

we'll make them show up

[hrbballman]

I'll be free and in indy all Saturday. pick a time and we can figure it out from there. Thanks

[DON SVO]

we'll make them show up

Oh, I have no doubts!

As soon as it dies, one guy needs to crank it over while the other checks for spark at the dizzy. I'd pull the coil wire off the dizzy and check it that way, see if it's firing. If yes, pull a plug off a wire and see if it's firing. If yes, with Key On/Engine On (don't crank, just turn the key to the 'run' position) depress the Shraeder valve in the fuel rail to see if you have fuel pressure (HEY!!!! fuel will spray out! Caution! Cuidado! Achtung!). If yes, then disconnect the injector harness, test it for power with KO/EO on the PCM side of the plug. If there's power, then test the ground wire in the connector for good ground (ohms). If your tests just showed that you have fuel, power/ground to the injectors and spark, I have a few short cuts to check for common issues:

1. check for KO/EO power at the fusible links. pull the fusbile links, check for voltage on the common side (3 prongs with the 1 wire). If there's voltage, check each fusible link with the meter set to ohms, should have NO resistance. OL or OFL is an open circuit. If we're good to go, then clean up the prongs and replace the links.

2. unplug the CPS sensor, hook up your multimeter to the sensor itself checking Ohms. If the sensor isn't in the 700-1000ohm range, replace it.

3. Check ALL the common grounds. I've seen a TON of headaches caused by a ground wire bolt that's back up a bit and has poor connection. This can lead to some heat build up which is resistance in an electrical circuit.