Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

escort carb idle tuning help please

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • escort carb idle tuning help please

    holley weber carb off of an escort 1.6 model name "Holley 740"
    having trouble getting the idle right

    this is the manual http://c796406.r6.cf2.rackcdn.com/ho...ild_manual.pdf


    I have a 2-3 inch high adapter setup. No vacuum leaks. These are the jet combos I have tried along with the idle air fuel mixture screw settings and a noob's description of how it was running along with rpm's. I have jets from 45-60, and I can not seem to get it to idle smoothly at a good idle speed. The jets that were factory in the escort were pri. 60 and sec. 50. I'm looking for any tips tricks suggestions. Thanks guys.


    Primary Secondary Idle mix screw Idle


    45 60 0.5 1300 rough and rich
    1 1700
    1.5 2000

    50 45 0.5 1800 slowly to 1200 and dies after 1 min.
    1 1800

    50 60 0.5 1500-1100 rough and dies after 1 min
    1 1900
    1.5 1800
    2 1800

    55 50 0.5 1300 dies very soon
    1 1700
    1.5 1800

    55 60 0.5 1200 rough
    1 1600
    1.5 1800
    2 1800

    60 50 0.5 1200 rough
    1 1600
    1.5 1800
    2 1800

    60 55 0.5 1200 rough
    1 1800
    1.5 1800
    2 1700
    2.5 1500 way rich
    Last edited by festivafeva; 03-12-2012, 09:08 PM.

  • #2
    Are you using the fuel shut off solenoid on the carb. The round (3/4" x 1-1/4") thingy with the wire coming out of it. For my Escort carbs, I remove that and take a pair of side cutters and cut the pin off flush with the end of the threads and remove it and the spring. Then replace the solenoid to act as only a plug for the hole.
    You gonna race that thing?
    http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm

    Comment


    • #3
      Wasn't the electric solenoid fuel shutoff valve meant to avoid dieseling when you turn the key off? I eliminated mine like you described except that I screwed a pipe plug into the hole it came from. My setup now diesels for a bit [not good for the engine] when I turn it off. I am now wondering if I should put it back in and hook it up? The butterflies are closing completely. What do you think?

      Comment


      • #4
        i have it wired to the alt choke wire like its supposed to be.

        Comment


        • #5
          The fuel shut off is supposed to be wired to the ignition switch. If it is working they are
          a good thing to have, finding a new one is most likely an on line thing.

          You are getting to much air. Go back to the original jets and adjust what ever is
          holding the throttle plates open a little bit. Be careful not to adjust the wrong thing.

          Was the car running poorly with the old carb?
          Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by denguy View Post
            Wasn't the electric solenoid fuel shutoff valve meant to avoid dieseling when you turn the key off? I eliminated mine like you described except that I screwed a pipe plug into the hole it came from. My setup now diesels for a bit [not good for the engine] when I turn it off. I am now wondering if I should put it back in and hook it up? The butterflies are closing completely. What do you think?
            The purpose of the solenoid is to stop dieseling, but I've never had a problem with dieseling without the solenoid. (The true Weber doesn't use the solenoid) If you have your engine idle speed set high or a heavily carboned engine, it will add to the dieseling problem. You could hook it back up, but if your idle speed is high, it could still diesel by pulling gas in directly through the main jets by bypassing the fuel shut-off.
            You gonna race that thing?
            http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm

            Comment


            • #7
              Bless you Festivafeva for the Escort carb manual link.

              Comment


              • #8
                does the selenoid have anything to do with idle tuning? it doesnt diesel at all so im assuming it is working the way it is hooked up. as for the little screw that holds the plate open a little bit.....do i need to have them open at idle or can i have that screw adjusted all of the way out so that they are fully closed? i have been leaving it all of the way out so that it does nothing. as for the original carb, all of a sudden one day it just wouldn't run at any less than 3000 rpm and i did a lot of screwing with it to try to fix it but nothing worked so i just went this route instead of trying to open it up and even if i did get it fixed i would have never been able to hook all of the vac lines up right again. that manual took me frickin forever to find but no problem.

                Comment


                • #9
                  If the solenoid sticks closed you cannot adjust anything until it is bypassed.

                  For now you need them fully closed, mainly to see if you are getting air from
                  someplace else. If they are fully closed the idle should be way low like 300-400
                  and nothing you do will make the rpm any higher.

                  There is a great guy on here , Kartracer, that does festy carbs he may be able
                  to rebuild this one too, you would have to talk to him, but first things first, you
                  may be getting air from somewhere. You had RPM's of 1800 or so, that is way
                  too much air. Rough running indicates it probably is not central but something
                  that affects one or two cylinders more than others. This condition has to be found
                  before a carb stands a chance.
                  Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    carb

                    i agree, start engine,and spray carb cleaner all around the bas of carb,and intake manifold.if u,got a leak,engine speed will drop from the carb cleaner. sometimes,emission lines leak air. spray some carb cleaner down carb,and rev engine,while you re doing it. or replace carb,with a 32/36 weber dgv PIERCE MANIFOLDS,SELLS CONVERSIONS.
                    Last edited by windy1; 03-14-2012, 04:35 PM. Reason: misspell

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      1. i am absolutely not going to try to mess with the stock carb because it is a nightmare.
                      2. i am almost positive that i am fully sealed because i have soaked the thing with carb cleaner and it does not affect it.
                      3. would you guys think that with the high intake setup that i would need to have bigger jets than the factory 1.6 escort or should they be about the same?
                      4. if i were to have a leak i would not get a steady vacuum reading correct?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        #3 If the adapter is a straight shot down, it shouldn't be enough to change
                        jets, just adjust as necessary.

                        #4 If the leak causes rough running the reading will reflect the rough running
                        not the leak. A vacuum gauge reflects engine condition and adjustments, but
                        not vacuum leaks directly.

                        #5 You cannot have the RPM you do at times with out getting air from somewhere.
                        Both carbs have things that can block the plates open a little?

                        Push some vacuum hose over the tips of big needle nose pliers and pinch
                        off hoses one at a time while the car is running, note change if any.

                        Hook up a glass jar with vacuum nipples and long vacuum hose to the PCV
                        nipple and drop
                        a july 4th smoke bomb in the jar, light it and put the lid on, watch for
                        smoke with a good LED light. This test is also great entertainment!
                        Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          alright thanks movin

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X