Idle/Stalling/Carb Problems - Help???

[Ray]

Hi all.

I have a 5-spd 2bbl 1988 Ford Festiva. Everything stock. Original engine with 398,694 miles. Paid $200 for it :p

First off, most of the times when I start this car, a loud scream will come from under the hood. It's been this way the last 6k miles since the last owner had it, and they said it's done that for a while. Most of the time you can get it to stop by applying and holding the break while putting it in gear and slowly letting off the clutch until the engine is at about 400rpm, and then pressing the clutch back down and putting it in neutral. Any ideas on that? I'm having a hard time pinpointing the problem. Sounds like a bad bearing somewhere?

Second - the high idle seems really high. When you start it, it'll usually start at around 2500-3500 rpm, and will soon bounce erratically within about 800 rpm. When it gets to the point of a normal idle...... it'll completely shut off if you don't give it some gas. I guess the engine isn't yet warm enough to sustain the idle, because if you drive it enough for the engine to get hot, it'll keep a rough idle of about 350-400 rpm which is entirely too low, and will often stall out after a good 2-5 minutes.

So I ask this - as a temporary fix I want to turn up my idle. But I'm having trouble finding the idle speed screw on the carburated model. Can someone give me a good description or some pictures of where to find it? You have no idea how much you would be helping me out.

Thanks!

[georgeb]

Reach around the back on the pass side. There is a plastic screw. Turn it toward carb to increase idle speed.

[WmWatt]

If by "screaming" you mean high rpm's that could be the choke sticking. Try cleaning and lubricating the choke linkages. There may be more to choke maintenance, vacuum hoses and such, but I'm not aware of it. Also as soon as the car starts try stepping briefly on the accellerator. That usually releases the choke. After the engine has been running for 10 seconds or so give the accellerator another shot to fully release the choke. It takes longer in cold weather.

[Ray]

Thanks! I for some reason overlooked it before. It was actually the other way around though. I had to turn it away from the carb to increase the idle speed. I have the idle set for about 1200, just because it won't hold anything lower. I guess it's from poor compression.

Reach around the back on the pass side. There is a plastic screw. Turn it toward carb to increase idle speed.

[Ray]

If by "screaming" you mean high rpm's that could be the choke sticking. Try cleaning and lubricating the choke linkages. There may be more to choke maintenance, vacuum hoses and such, but I'm not aware of it. Also as soon as the car starts try stepping briefly on the accellerator. That usually releases the choke. After the engine has been running for 10 seconds or so give the accellerator another shot to fully release the choke. It takes longer in cold weather.

As far as I can tell, the choke is working. The butterfly is closed until it warms up, then after you tap the accelerator, it opens up like it's supposed to. It sounds like belt squeal, and that's the area it's coming from under the hood. The belt itself doesn't feel or looked glazed or cracked, doesn't feel loose, but that's defenately where the noise is coming from.

[kellen302]

alt or water pump bearing?

[Ray]

My thoughts exactly. I guess I'll grab a Christmas wrapping paper roll or something, and try to listen to where it's coming from.

Off subject but - if anyone knows of a B3 engine in the TN/VA/NC area, let me know.. I can't even keep an air filter in this one. Two bad piston rings among other things. Guess I'd be looking for at least a long block.

[kellen302]

Post your location in your user CP, but the force is strong in the VA/TN/NC area, you should have no problem finding a new heart... in fact you might as well upgrade...

[georgeb]

If it has a/c, take that belt off for now. Push on the middle of the fan/alt belt and see how far it moves. Should only move about 1/2 inch. If it moves more, crawl under car and loosen 14mm bottom alt bolt about a half turn. Then loosen 12mm top alt bolt enough to slide alt. Pry away from engine with small bar and tighten top bolt. Check deflection. Tighten bottom bolt. Belt might be wasted if still noisy.

[Ray]

Post your location in your user CP, but the force is strong in the VA/TN/NC area, you should have no problem finding a new heart... in fact you might as well upgrade...

Just updated it. I'm interested in a potential upgrade, but I'm new to the whole world of Festivas. I know there are quite a few Mazda engines that pretty much bolt right in, but how much of a hassle is it? I mean, if I were to get a long block of another engine, would everything like the starter, carb, etc be 100% interchangeable?

If it has a/c, take that belt off for now. Push on the middle of the fan/alt belt and see how far it moves. Should only move about 1/2 inch. If it moves more, crawl under car and loosen 14mm bottom alt bolt about a half turn. Then loosen 12mm top alt bolt enough to slide alt. Pry away from engine with small bar and tighten top bolt. Check deflection. Tighten bottom bolt. Belt might be wasted if still noisy.

Yeah.. I was hopeful that the AC belt was the problem, so I took it off a couple of days ago. No dice, still the same problem. But I'll take your advice and try that tomorrow, and I'll come back with the results and everything. Thanks!

[WmWatt]

Most of the engines available are fuel injected. Electric fuel pump in the gas tank, different air filtre housing, etc. It's been done. Search this forum for earlier postings.

[kartracer46]

well if you wish to stay carby, a 1st gen b6 is about it without getting into building custom intakes and modding.

I am building a b6 for my 88 currently after some of my other pet projects get completed.

[Ray]

Alright - here it goes.

I was actually able to get the two bad rings fixed, and it costed me maybe $20.

It turns out the rings weren't broken, but they were just stuck. I didn't think about it, but this car sat without running for a good 7 years, and that's probably when it happened.

I pulled the spark plugs out, and put a good 2oz of MMO in each one of them, and let it soak for a good 3 days. I returned, turned over the engine with the starter a few times, and repeated the process. A day later, I came back, turned the engine a few more times, and put the old spark plugs back in, and started it up.

I had the engine going at about 3.5-4k rpm, and I poured enough ATF down the carb to drown out the engine. I again pulled the spark plugs, added some MMO, and let it sit for about 2 days.

After again cycling the engine a few times, I put the old spark plugs back in for the last time. The smoke was horrible, and I'm sure I pissed off a few neighbors. After running it at about 3k rpm for a good two minutes, I heard a loud metallic "clink", and the smoke stopped. And I mean it completely stopped. The (warm) idle was at about 1300rpm, and I figure that's from where I had the idle set higher when the rings were bad. I adjusted the idle to about 700 - and it held it. Sitting behind the steering wheel and barely being able to hear the motor run for the first time was amazing.

Naturally, I shut it off, waited for it to cool, and put some fresh brand-new spark plugs in it. In short, it runs like a champ. I'm about to pass 400,000 miles, and I wouldn't be at all surprised if it made it to half a million as long as it keeps this up. There's no longer any hesitation, and the engine is able to get me up a hill if I come to a stop while on the hill.

[Ray]

The carb no longer seems to be an issue. After taking a rag and cleaning up some of the oil, I'm actually able to keep an air filter in the car, which is so much more comforting :p

Ive driven it maybe a good 150 miles, and it hasn't used any oil, from what I can tell.