Just like the title says, just wondering if anyone has done it and if its been successful. Gotta ask because the gasket is an order only item at the parts store but I've got lots of rtv sitting around
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rtv instead of oil pan gasket?
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Lol try it jk DOnT!!!! You'll be quite angry with the results!!!1992 white L, Bp, American racing 13's, stock trans.
1991 White L, BP/F5MR, protege header, full aspire swap with gr2's, seats, and sway bar, 15" konig's, short throw, escort console.
1991 blue L, 5 speed.
1988 red L-plus-all stock.
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Yes it can be successful but you have to know your way around. first you have to confirm that the bolts will be able to go in farther and clamp the pan metal to metal. check every bolt and every hole. Clean out the bolt holes and surfaces with carb clean after getting rid of all gasket material. let crankcase drip out overnight, then clean again as all surfaces and bolt holes have to be chemically clean..no trace of oil. Use the proper amount of silicone and assemble, it will bond with no leaks....unless you allow a trace of oil somewhere. Of coarse the silicone has to be sensor safe or your 02 sensor will be junk. Use what ever pretty color of silicone you want!..Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig
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The aspire oil pan gasket kit that you get from local auto parts stores is two tubes of RTV and two small gaskets for the humps on the front and rear. I have tried both ways, the one piece gasket had to be modified slightly because the aspire oil pan has two more holes than the festivas. It had a small leak, so I took it off and replaced it with all RTV. Well, it still leaks, but I am almost positive it is not (and never was) the gasket leaking.2002 Ford Mustang GT Mineral Grey 5 spd
1996 Ford Explorer XLT AWD White POS
1992 Ford Festiva GL Metallic Blue 5 spd
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Stopping leaks and keeping it looking like a pro did it is not
just slap and goo! Using the proper gaskets also needs
the knowledge of leak points and how to stop them.
In addition knowledge of the whole system, how it works
sure makes a job successful. Is the PCV flowing correctly,
how much blow by is there, Is the seal leaking because of
old seal or has the shaft got excessive end play? Run-out ?
Does it need to be sleeved?? Maybe the seal surface is not
leaking at all, it is coming out of the splined or keyed area!!
Perhaps high quality liquid Teflon is best here, or the red
RollsRoyce goo?? Loc-tite or never-seize..? .002 or .010
loctite and green, blue or red...which red??
Expertise in these chemicals BEFORE the job can sure change the outcome
especially when using factory gaskets and seals because they are the best..Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig
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I've done it successfully with just the 2 "hump" gaskets and sealer, BUT I needed more sealer than what comes in those 2 little tubes.You gonna race that thing?
http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm
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I've not messed with a Festy oil pan gasket yet, but I know a lot of guys on the Ford FE forum use The Right Stuff by Permatex.
1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DD
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