Suspension oddity... CV joints? Steering rack? Maybe wheel bearing?

[DON SVO]

1990 ford Festiva, FWD manual rack/pinion.

The car has started making a whirring/grinding type of noise from the right front. Turning the car right eliminates the noise. While driving the car gets a mild vibration thru the wheel and some vibration when braking. Vibration is speed dependent. Handling has gotten skittish (will vaguely move itself around with no steering wheel input). Car does make a clicking sound when turned left to the lock.

The wheel bearings are always suspect on these cars, so I lifted the car and got no play pushing @ 12oclock/6oclock. However, I get some slop from 3oclock/9oclock. I looked and it appears as if the inner tie rod is moving in the rack, which I see as the steering rack having too much play. Can the rack be faulty and cause the symptoms I have?

[nonamekid]

Whirring/grinding noise sounds like you got a bad wheel bearing. Does it go away no matter which way you turn? Or does it get louder one way and quieter the other way?

Clicking when turned all the way is a bad cv joint.

Vibration when braking could either be warped rotors or worn out tie rod ends. Is there slack in the steering wheel when moving it left to right? In other words, a little bit of play before it does anything? This is another sign of worn out tie rods.

[georgeb]

The slop at 9 and 3 sounds like a worn inner tie rod end. Make sure it's not the outer. Those are a lot easier to do than the inner.

[DON SVO]

New Escort GT outer ends, the inner tie rod could certainly be suspect. There's no play in the steering wheel, and the typical "shake the wheel at 12 and 6" test didn't result in any movement. The 9 and 3 test had play, I could see the inner tie rod end hub moving in the rack.

I'm going to do a little more diag, I'm thinking a blew an inner CV joint.

[Nerd Racing]

I was under the impression the EGT outer tie rod ends had a different taper to them?

[WmWatt]

You may have more than one thing going on. You can try greasing the CV joint by prying open the metal bands and pushing the rubber boot up the axle shaft and pushing fresh grease in there. Then pull the boot back and press the metal bands back in place. It's pretty easy to do and if the noise goes away the wear is in the CV joint. Otherwise it's the bearings which are harder to do than replacing the axle/CV joint. I'd bet it's the bearings grinding, though. Old and dry.

[DON SVO]

You may have more than one thing going on. You can try greasing the CV joint by prying open the metal bands and pushing the rubber boot up the axle shaft and pushing fresh grease in there. Then pull the boot back and press the metal bands back in place. It's pretty easy to do and if the noise goes away the wear is in the CV joint. Otherwise it's the bearings which are harder to do than replacing the axle/CV joint. I'd bet it's the bearings grinding, though. Old and dry.

When the bearings go they typically show their true colors with some good ol' hub play/brake pad wear. If the bearing is on it's way out I'm going to be slightly upset, LOL. I'm going to get under the car and check out the CV/grease it up like you recommended, good tip!

[Bert]

If you see "play" in the vicinity of the steering rack you'll want to see if it's the inner tie rod that is loose or whether it is the rack itself. You may not be keen to do this but popping the outer tie rod out of the hub (most times this is easy (without using a tie rod puller, or a 'pickle fork' which will ruin the boot) with a firm whack of a big hammer; and make sure the nut is loose but still spun over the treads before you do) but with that arm free you can readily see and/or feel if the inner tie rod is stiff or not when you push/pull, spin and/or move from side to side. Then from underneath the car you can determine whether the rack or the inner tie rod is the culprit.
By the way (probably having noticed the absence of instructions, pictures or diagrams in the normally revered Haynes Aspire/Festy manual) inner tie rods are hidden inside a grease-filled accordion sleeve and are essentially a stiff (there should be no play at all) ball and socket joint. They are quite unlike an outer tie rod in that spinning one will not mess up your wheel alignment.
Good luck!

[DON SVO]

If you see "play" in the vicinity of the steering rack you'll want to see if it's the inner tie rod that is loose or whether it is the rack itself. You may not be keen to do this but popping the outer tie rod out of the hub (most times this is easy (without using a tie rod puller, or a 'pickle fork' which will ruin the boot) with a firm whack of a big hammer; and make sure the nut is loose but still spun over the treads before you do) but with that arm free you can readily see and/or feel if the inner tie rod is stiff or not when you push/pull, spin and/or move from side to side. Then from underneath the car you can determine whether the rack or the inner tie rod is the culprit.
By the way (probably having noticed the absence of instructions, pictures or diagrams in the normally revered Haynes Aspire/Festy manual) inner tie rods are hidden inside a grease-filled accordion sleeve and are essentially a stiff (there should be no play at all) ball and socket joint. They are quite unlike an outer tie rod in that spinning one will not mess up your wheel alignment.
Good luck!

Thanks!

[FestYboy]

Don, i've seen more than my share of bad bearings that had '0' play in them, but once taken out and inspected, were prooved to be faulty. speed dependant noise that goes away when unloaded is 99.9% the bearing.

[DON SVO]

Don, i've seen more than my share of bad bearings that had '0' play in them, but once taken out and inspected, were prooved to be faulty. speed dependant noise that goes away when unloaded is 99.9% the bearing.

Dream crusher!

[windy1]

several items

i just had these same problems u,describe. i replaced all bearings,and tierods,as well as ball joints,and any bushings up front. clicking,i would suspect cv,s but might be a bearing.. i cant help to much,without driving it. i get parts,cheap,so i replace anything i suspect . u seem a smart man,i hope ya can isolate problem[s]

[windy1]

safety

good luck,as well

[denguy]

My Festy had a rumbling sound from the front end that was really noticeable at lower speeds [20mph say]. When i jacked the front wheels off the ground and ran it in gear it was quiet. I changed knuckles and bearings and the noise went away.

[WmWatt]

To test unloaded bearing put the front up on stands, start the engine, and put it in gear. May need to jam a block of wood under the other tire to get the side you want to listen to rotating. When I tried that on mine and put a 3' length of garden hose to my ear it helped locate the sound in the CV joint. Forgot I'd done that.