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1st start. Prime......?

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  • 1st start. Prime......?

    Ok so first, a hypothetical scenario..
    My build is finished, everything is torqued, lubed and im keen to taste the fruits of my labor.

    But... (and here's the question)

    Do I prime the fuel? Is it fine to just fill 'er up n crank until start or should there atleast be fuel in the pump and/or bowl? (weber carb)
    Id hate to get that far and damage something for lack of priming.
    Any input/how to appreciated.

    Cheers,
    E.
    Last edited by ELUSIVE; 04-14-2012, 04:04 PM.
    60% of the time it works, every time!

  • #2
    I'd pour a little fuel in the bowl to get things going.
    90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
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    • #3
      ^^^ What he said. If you have someone to crank it for ya. Dribble a little fuel in the carb while they crank it. Should run on its own right quick.

      It is carb, right?
      Dan




      Red 1988 Festiva L - CUJO

      Black 1992 Festiva GL Sport - BLACK MAGIC

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      • #4
        Have a fire extinguisher ready if you prime with gas.

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        • #5
          I would crank over for a good while to get oil pressure up and things lubed up .
          If you prime with gas it will fire premature more or less a dry start .
          Just my thoughts I never do it .
          New build on the way .

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          • #6
            Ok thanks. To be absolute sure then, ill;

            1. Get some fuel in the bowl.

            2. Maybe remove fuel line to carb and have pointed into small container.

            3. Remove spark plugs and crank it over (with freind aiming fuel into afformentioned container) until fuel line fully primed, giving oil a chance to circulate.

            4. Replace fuel line and plugs.

            5. Turn the key and go on to have an awesome day.

            Sound ok?
            60% of the time it works, every time!

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            • #7
              I would just unplug the coil and crank for a while, before pouring fuel into it.
              1992 white L, Bp, American racing 13's, stock trans.
              1991 White L, BP/F5MR, protege header, full aspire swap with gr2's, seats, and sway bar, 15" konig's, short throw, escort console.
              1991 blue L, 5 speed.
              1988 red L-plus-all stock.

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              • #8
                That's what I do ! Pull the coil wire crank for awhile reconnect and enjoy .
                New build on the way .

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                • #9
                  Hell, I put gas in a windex bottle, 2-3 good sprays down the throat, and fire it up. By the time it burns through the residual fuel, the bowl will have enough to keep the engine running.

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                  • #10
                    donno about you guys, but if everything was assembled properly, fire it up and get it to a steady 2000rpm as fast as you can, the oil pressure will com up within a second: no dry start! and the high RPM will help initially seat the rings.
                    Trees aren't kind to me...

                    currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                    94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                    • #11
                      Most cams ask for 20 minutes of higher rpm to break in. While its on the engine stand
                      the pump gears should be packed. Fill the oil filter to the brim with oil and turn the
                      engine so you can install it with out losing any oil. Prime the fuel too. Do not screw
                      up stabbing the disty and take care to calculate enough advance for good running
                      for that first 20 minutes.

                      Chevy v8 engines before roller lifters would eat a cam if you cranked it very much
                      before it started. They would eat cams anyway, no need to abuse them further.
                      Both metal and oil are better now but why change when that was the best way??
                      Instant start with instant oil pressure and 20 minutes of higher rpm.

                      This is critical enough that good rebuilders break in the engine either cold
                      run or hot run before shipping.
                      Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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                      • #12
                        Haynes manual says to pull the spark plugs and cut the fuel off and crank until the oil pressure light goes off to build it up first. I don't know if all of that is necessary, but that's what it says.
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                        "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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                        • #13
                          Guys, he's not talking about priming the oil pump. He's asking if he should prime up the fuel lines and get some fuel in the bowl first.

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                          • #14
                            ^^^ got that..It depends!!
                            Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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                            • #15
                              ^^^ in both cases, get the RPM to a steady 2000 ASAP and the fluids will take care of themselves.
                              Trees aren't kind to me...

                              currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                              94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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