B3 Shake & Bake questions

[invader_star]

I recently took in my girlfriend's '89 B3 engine block to get the old shake & bake from NAPA auto, and I had a few questions about what to do next! This is my first engine block cleaning and engine rebuild, so I'm very excited to get started

Question 1: Does the mating surface look okay? High-resolution mating surface photo! I've spent myself into a pretty good hole, so I don't want to get it resurfaced unless I have to. Second mating surface photo! I'm new to making this type of judgement, so I'm not sure how to feel. The entire surface has that slight outline of the old gasket to it, but looks pretty decent to my untrained eye. My engine head has been resurfaced.

Question 2: What's the easiest way to hone the piston chambers? There are some rust rings in the chambers after I got it back, so honing should probably be in order.

Question 3: I should definitely paint the engine block, correct? If so, what's the best method of painting, and what kind of paint do you recommend?

Sorry for the lengthy post, but I really don't want to screw up my first complete engine rebuild. My girlfriend would not be happy :nono: If my photo sucks, I can provide more! Thanks a lot for taking the time to read

[blkfordsedan]

Would recommend taking it back to Napa and have them hone it for you. They did mine for 7.00 per cylinder. Do not assemble the engine without cleaning the block thoroughly with soapy water. Scrub and blow out all the oil passages with engine brushes and compressed air. I would make that the last thing you do, just prior to assembly.i

[Movin]

The block surface needs a clean up pass, the cylinders will probably
clean up with repeated honing, use lots of cutting fluid and do not
use a dingle berry hone. After what this has had done to it you need to
blow it out a lot more, and run a chaser through all the bolt holes along
with air blasting to remove sand. Really work over the oil passages
they can retain some nasty stuff. The Head was probably blasted with
sand too, they should have cleaned it but check what you can, I had a valve cover
once that wouldn't seal because of sand. I made a new small tip air
gun to go down in these 6mm holes, and leave room for air and debris to
escape. Squirt carb cleaner into a passage then catch the other end in a paper
towel when you bast it, repeat until towel stays clean.

If you do not have the bucks for decking cure about 2 or three coats of
copper cote on there and use the no retorque head gasket.

Check the bolt hole ears on the intake manifold to make sure the surface
is flat. A babbet file will bring the surface true enough if it is warped.

I'll shut up and let you catch up!!

[invader_star]

You would think these would be nice and clean already, heh. When I run my fingers up and down the cylinder walls, some dust-like material comes off onto my finger. Same color as the engine. I'll be sure to clean the engine block thoroughly, yikes.
What kind of brushes scratch the cast iron?

Movin, does "a clean up pass" mean I need a resurfacing? I have the head gasket that comes in the master gasket set from Autozone.. not sure what kind that is

[Movin]

If you can swing it that head gasket will seal longer if you can
have the machine shop deck it just enough to clean up the
pits that are in the fire ring area.

If you got the complete set from Z out here they are victor renze
and should be retorqued after breakin.

AZ offers the fel-pro perma torque in head sets and alone out here
as well, they do not need retorquing.

[invader_star]

Makes sense. I want to get the most life out of this rebuild as possible. I took the block back into the shop for a resurfacing, as well as cylinder honing. She should be ready on Wednesday

Thanks for the tips. I probably wouldn't have thought about re-torquing the head bolts, nice!