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Simplified window crank remove/install

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  • #16
    Hidden fasteners help keep a clean look, that's what I like and that's how I like to keep it...... But I see the practicality of this, but I personally will never do it

    But i honestly never thought of a rag to get those clips off, so I'm glad I read this thread

    1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
    1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
    2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

    1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

    If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

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    • #17
      Dan




      Red 1988 Festiva L - CUJO

      Black 1992 Festiva GL Sport - BLACK MAGIC

      I'm just...a little slow... sometimes:withstupid:

      R.I.P.
      Blue 1972 Chevelle SS-468 C.I.D. B'nM TH400-4:56 posi-Black racing stripes-Black vinyl top-Black int.
      Black on black 1976 Camaro LT-350 4 bolt main .060 over
      Silver 1988 Festiva L

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Damkid View Post
        Hidden fasteners help keep a clean look, that's what I like and that's how I like to keep it...... But I see the practicality of this, but I personally will never do it

        But i honestly never thought of a rag to get those clips off, so I'm glad I read this thread
        Folded duct tape, rag, piece of beer box, walnut pick, blah, blah, blah... they all work. Almost anything will work. The biggest trick is finding the open end.

        I like this mod, if one wishes to call it that, because it means, as the OP said, that many other handles could be used to accent one's interior tastes, including the "replacement" handles in the HELP! section at your favorite McParts store.

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        • #19
          Dont forget Protege, Escort, 323 and Tracer handles fit. I've got black and chrome tracer window handles (and door handles) on mine.
          -Zack
          Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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          • #20
            It's curious that I got hold of a rust-free perfectly good and running Aspire solely for parts (suspension and brakes) and then foolishly figured that there would actually be people interested in parts off one of these cars. Headlights and tail lights and a whole bunch of other stuff were a SOB to figure out how to remove, only because of the next-generation fashion-dictated hidden fasteners, slides, pivots, slots and other idiot things that are not found on Festys.
            Geneva Dirt: A simple screw head on a crank handle may be an 'unsightly wart' to you so I'd expect you'd revel with one of these new-fangled (Aspire) cosmetically-pretty cars (no exterior screws showing) and similarly derive pleasure with having the extra 200 pounds of junk that goes along with it.

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            • #21
              Not trying to continue a arguement here, but I find newer stuff not very hard to work on, I'm a bodyman for my profession. But still hidden fasteners and such aren't all the hard to get the hang of, you'd be surpised by how simple some new cars are really...
              -93' L BP swap/e-series, coilovers, RIO front swap, redrilled festy drums, Miata 14" 7 spokes.
              -88' Mazda 323 SE, work in progress..
              -85' Nissan Sentra 5 spd.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Bert View Post
                It's curious that I got hold of a rust-free perfectly good and running Aspire solely for parts (suspension and brakes) and then foolishly figured that there would actually be people interested in parts off one of these cars. Headlights and tail lights and a whole bunch of other stuff were a SOB to figure out how to remove, only because of the next-generation fashion-dictated hidden fasteners, slides, pivots, slots and other idiot things that are not found on Festys.
                Geneva Dirt: A simple screw head on a crank handle may be an 'unsightly wart' to you so I'd expect you'd revel with one of these new-fangled (Aspire) cosmetically-pretty cars (no exterior screws showing) and similarly derive pleasure with having the extra 200 pounds of junk that goes along with it.
                pretty sad if you think that an Aspire weighs more then a Festy because it has hidden fasteners and that is a fashion statement to have such things on cars. As stated before, I am not against a screw head showing, there happen to be exposed screw heads holding the trim plate for our mirrors. I was stating that the way YOU applied the screw to the handle...looked like crap!
                "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
                89L Silver EFI auto
                91GL Green Auto DD
                There ain't no rest for the wicked
                until we close our eyes for good.
                I will sleep when I die!
                I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

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                • #23
                  Hey, he could have used a drywall screw!?! LOL

                  I would have maybe went with a countersunk screw and used a non pilot drill bit to level the hole. Then a black phosphate screw or maybe a brushed stainless one.

                  One with an Allen head or a Torx would be cool too.
                  1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
                  1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
                  1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
                  1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
                  2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
                  2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
                  2005 Accord - wife's DD
                  2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
                  2015 F150 SCrew - DD

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                  • #24
                    I love that we can get into a heated debate over window crank handles!

                    Personally, if I was going to use a screw to attach it, I'd countersink with a black socket cap screw...

                    But, since we are getting all up in arms about simplicity...

                    I like my factory clips and my $4 clip taker-outer that works on everything from Festivas to '90s Chevy full-size vans, and requires no modifications at all to anything whatsoever

                    Now THATS simplicity... to me anyway.
                    No festiva for me ATM...

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                    • #25
                      I'd rather add power windows though.... Nuff said

                      1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
                      1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
                      2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

                      1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

                      If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

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                      • #26
                        When installing screws of any kind make sure the slots in the heads all line up for esthetic conformity. When replacing seats on a canoe all the bolt heads must line up fore-and-aft. Same deal on cars. Those metal screws that hold the fenders on? Line 'em up! You don't want to lift the hood and see them pointing every which way.
                        Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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                        • #27
                          ^^^That's the first thing I look for when car shopping.

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                          • #28
                            Geez guys! On expensive rifles and shotguns, having all the slot screw heads line up via machining each one separately is called 'timing'.
                            However, I have yet to see concealed fasteners on military, police or practical stuff. They have other ingenious ways to speed up disassembly and/or hold things together.

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                            • #29
                              Oddly, the window handle clip weighs less than a screw according to my ancient postal scale... doesn't that sort of kill the "hidden fastener and extra weight" theory?

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Bert View Post
                                Geez guys! On expensive rifles and shotguns, having all the slot screw heads line up via machining each one separately is called 'timing'.
                                However, I have yet to see concealed fasteners on military, police or practical stuff. They have other ingenious ways to speed up disassembly and/or hold things together.
                                They're also not designed to be appealing, or marketed to, the general public. That said, I rather enjoy exposed fasteners and the "machine" look. But only when they're nicely arranged.

                                For instance, I've tacked the lower half of a front bumper from one car onto another car by lining it up w/ the trim section of the car's bumper. I used a screw every 2 inches, starting 1 inch from center. They were stainless hex cap (pan head) screws with black "trim washers" under them.

                                When I cut down the Muzzy exhaust on my Ninja 250, instead of rivets, I used black hex socket head screws. It looked military-industrial, even if the rest of the bike wasn't so sweet.

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