I need help with my wheel bearings

[zoom zoom]

The when you preload the bearings, the bearings crush, not the spacer. The same spacer should be reused, they are matched to the spindle. The reason for it is because when you machine a part, the bit wears out. So say the factory machines the bores for the races in one knuckle, by the time the next knuckle is bored out, that bit has been worn out, and a thicker spacer is need, over and over again until the bit is replaced, and it starts over with a thin spacer.

[Bert]

The when you preload the bearings, the bearings crush, not the spacer. The same spacer should be reused, they are matched to the spindle. The reason for it is because when you machine a part, the bit wears out. So say the factory machines the bores for the races in one knuckle, by the time the next knuckle is bored out, that bit has been worn out, and a thicker spacer is need, over and over again until the bit is replaced, and it starts over with a thin spacer.

This is a typical "British" argument. It was the Brits (Rolls-Royce, specifically) that invented the Merlin aircraft engine and ultimately it was Packard of the USA that wound up manufacturing many of them under license only because they were Fiddle-f&*k motors that leaked oil everywhere and were fussy to work on. Packard managed to reduce the amount of idiot oil seals and parts by the hundreds and still live up to the original Hurricane/Spitfire/Typhoon reputation.
Cars have had easy to replace and otherwise durable bearings for most of history until -preload bearing arrangements came out. Unfortunately the Festys are blessed with these engineering anomalies. No ready swap either, as of yet.

[sickfleming]

So I used a 3 prong puller, thanks to my girlfriend for loaning me the money, and popped the knuckle off the hub right there on the Advance Auto checkout counter lol. Since I've been home, the outer race came out with a screwdriver and hammer. When flipped over to do the other side, I noticed the preload spacer is in between the inside bearing race and the bearing and race that I just removed. Should I tap that out too or leave it be? If I do tap it out, couldn't I just put it back in like a bearing race and it will work, or do I have to get another one and where? Other than that, so far so good
Sorry for the small question bombardment lol

[FestYboy]

ok, first, if you're replacing a bearing (any tapered bearing) you need to replace the race as well (never EVER use an old race).

that being said: once you replace the outer bearing (on the hub), you just slip the spacer onto the hub and then with the hub face on a secure surface and then place the knuckle on top (with the inner and outer races pre-installed). now place the inner bearing onto the hub tube and take a block of wood that fits over the bearing and beat the inner bearing onto the hub (heavy hammer on wood block) untill it seats. this is how i do it outside of the shop and never have issues.

[sickfleming]

Okay, well when I tapped out the inner bearing race (opposite of the hub), when I flipped it over to do the outer bearing I saw the preload spacer right sitting before the outer race. If I slip the spacer over the hub and place the knuckle on top with the inner and outer races pre-installed on the knuckle, how will the spacer get in the middle again between the two races? Unless you meant that I'm supposed to put the bearing races on the hub tube and put the knuckle on that

[zoom zoom]

^

Basically the same as I do it, but I took a grinder and cut a slit in the side of an old bearing race, not the race, I removed the cage and rollers and used that race, and used it to seat the new bearings on the hub shaft so I don't touch the actual bearing itself. Wmwatt had a neat idea for pressing the outter seal at the same time as the inner bearing with rope, I might try that next time.

Outter seal>outter bearing>spacer>spindle>inner bearing>inner seal

The spacer should be on the hub shaft. It's a metal ring, when you tap both races out of the hub there is a section of metal, it separates the races and creates the need for a spacer on the hub shaft.

[nitrofarm]

The when you preload the bearings, the bearings crush, not the spacer. The same spacer should be reused, they are matched to the spindle. The reason for it is because when you machine a part, the bit wears out. So say the factory machines the bores for the races in one knuckle, by the time the next knuckle is bored out, that bit has been worn out, and a thicker spacer is need, over and over again until the bit is replaced, and it starts over with a thin spacer.

I think you have it backwards? The spacer is matched to the hub. I'm assuming that the "space" inside the knuckle.Where the races butt up against.That was held to a fairly close tolerance at factory. But the hub "Length" that was not. They would have to surface grind it.Measure it,and maybe do it again. I could be all wrong on this.But in my simple mind.Thats how it computes.

[zoom zoom]

I could be wrong, I usually am more than I'm right, but I don't think so Tim.

[nitrofarm]

^

Wmwatt had a neat idea for pressing the outter seal at the same time as the inner bearing with rope, I might try that next time.

The seal position's is as critical as the spacer. You want the edge of the seal to just butt up against the bearing. In order to do this on the outer seal. you must drop the bearing in. Then install the seal,then carefully seat the rubber seal around the bearing. If you dont there will be an air gap between the rubber and bearing.Thats why you start with the outer first. Otherwise you'll never know how well that seal is sealing.
You have a good idea as far as using the inner portion of the race. I did the same thing.Only took it a little farther. I reamed .030" from the inside of it.Then welded a boss on one end.

[sickfleming]

Uhhhhh...okay.... I'm still confused. Okay, so I:
1. Tap the old inner race out
2. Flip knuckle over and tap out the old outer race
3. Tap out the spacer
4. Put in new outer race
5. Put in spacer
6. Put on inner race
7. Put new grease seal and new inner bearing on axle shaft
8. Slide knuckle containing race-spacer-race down axle shaft onto inner bearing

Do I have that right so far? Also, can you reuse the old spacer (NOT race, but spacer) or do I have to get another one? If so, do I get it from a Kia dealer or Mazda?

[nitrofarm]

Look at his pics

Uhhhhh...okay.... I'm still confused. Okay, so I:
1. Tap the old inner race out
2. Flip knuckle over and tap out the old outer race
3. Tap out the spacer
4. Put in new outer race
5. Put in spacer
6. Put on inner race
7. Put new grease seal and new inner bearing on axle shaft
8. Slide knuckle containing race-spacer-race down axle shaft onto inner bearing

Do I have that right so far? Also, can you reuse the old spacer (NOT race, but spacer) or do I have to get another one? If so, do I get it from a Kia dealer or Mazda?

The spacer can be reused indefinitely. And I would say look at his pics. I use the Ford Shop Manual.Which is completely different. But the end results should be the same. But you dont want to use the axle/hub to seat the seals. FYI You can use a LARGE vise as a press.It takes longer than a Hydro press.And it helps to have a second set of hands.But it can be done quite easily if you know what your doing. Here are WMWatt's pics http://s1086.photobucket.com/albums/...va-frontwheel/

[zoom zoom]

dude man, bro, your way overcomplicating it. Like I said, I haven't done a festiva knuckle, but I'm sure it's not much different from an Aspire spindle. The outter seal HAS to be put on before the bearing, It will not fit over the bearing cage, so it must be put on the hub shaft first, then press on the bearing.

Once you get that far, you should be able to see how it goes back together, it's not rocket science. I just push the seal up where it needs to be on the back of the bearing and look at the hub sideways so you know how far it needs to be spaced from the backside of the hub, then when you get the whole thing together you will be able to tell wether it's on far enough or not. Seriously, it's not nearly as complicated as it sounds. I'm uploading some pics demonstrating what I'm talking about, gimme a sec.

[zoom zoom]

bah.. this is how to get the bearings off anyway, you should be able to see how it goes back together once you get this far. I'll finish it when my new bearings and seals come in.

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/knuckle%20rebuild/KnuckleRebuildpart1.png

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/knuckle%20rebuild/KnuckleRebuildpart2.png

full size pics here:

http://s844.photobucket.com/albums/ab2/mykromisfit/knuckle%20rebuild/

If you seriously can't figure out how to put it back together after looking at it for this long, don't.

[sickfleming]

Yeah, but he never really said much on the spacer. I was just wondering if I actually had to remove it, since it's where it's supposed to be already when you remove the old races. I was thinking that maybe you could just leave it on, but WMWatts took the spacer off of the hub....oh wait...he was reusing it to put on another hub....durrrrr...
Haha, yeah, I suppose I am overthinking this. I guess when my ball joint/cv axle failed going down the road in my Escort made me a little paranoid when it comes to front end work. Thanks zoom zoom

[WmWatt]

As soon as the hub is pulled out of the knuckle the spacer can be slid off the hub. In the photos that's #15. When reassembling the spacer goes back on the hub just before putting the hub back into the knuckle. It just slips over the hub to keep the inner and outer bearings the right distance apart. It's the same as slipping a washer onto a bolt. It's just a spacer. But a very important spacer.

Now you know why I bought a pair of wheels off a wreck to work on. Low risk way of figuring out how to do the bearings.

PS If you'd ever worked on bicycle wheels you'd be familliar with axle spacers.