Uh oh... some help??

[sickfleming]

Okay, now that I have the bearings, the two big bolts that hold the steering knuckle to the strut mount are totally and completely stuck. As in, they started to round off, after 2 shots of Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster and about 2-3 days wait time. If there is anybody in the Houston area that can help me out, it would be MUCH appreciated.
If all else, I'll just hope to find a used Festiva (not Aspire) steering knuckle and get another strut or two. I just have to have it done VERY soon, because I deliver food and no car means no job or school. Man...this sucks so much.

[Movin]

Those can be kinda tight. Do you have access to 6 point sockets or wrenches?
Might be able to borrow from AZ or Oreily's then return them.

[bhazard]

And a torch...

[sickfleming]

Yes, I'm using a 17mm 1/2 inch drive with a breaker bar. It fought me and then slip! One or two corners rounded. I do not have access to a torch. I might have to get a nut splitter or something. At least, that was suggested to me.

[Bert]

I feel for you. I drove as a courier for well over a year and had to keep a car on the road. I bought a second car identical to the first so that one could be patiently fixed in the evenings while the other was on the road.

If you have to saw or grind those bolt heads off it is going to require a good and solid hammer blow on a punch to get those bolts out of the holes. Any 'play' you can get is advantageous for getting more penetrating oil in there.

For sure you're going to grease the new ones, though!

[zoom zoom]

Even a 10-15$ propane torch for soldering copper pipes would work to heat that up, its what I use. A little heat will go a long way.

[Movin]

Yes, I'm using a 17mm 1/2 inch drive with a breaker bar. It fought me and then slip! One or two corners rounded. I do not have access to a torch. I might have to get a nut splitter or something. At least, that was suggested to me.

Can you drive on a 5/8 or has it worn much?
It could be your 17 is tired and a new borrowed 6 point will pull
with out slipping. And by all means, if you have a torch like the
suggestion above somewhere, use heat!!
Some times if you have a big cold chisel you can strike the nut
in such a way as to help loosen it and to provide a grippier
surface for your socket. You will get it!!

[zoom zoom]

Hah, who added all the random tags?

[Occhty]

If your just changing the bearings, take the strut out with the knuckle.

[Pu241]

Done this alot.

Use an impact socket!
They don't work on the corners of the bolt/nut, but the flats.
So it doesn't matter if you've rounded it.

Better if you can borrow an impact wrench.
In this case bigger is better.
Continue soaking the nut and bolt threads with PB blaster and as said above some heat, but dont over do it.

[Christ]

I usually heat it up, then quench it with PB (any stuck bolt/nut).

Achieves a couple functions: Heat expands the nut, giving more room for the PB to sneak in. The expansion breaks up some of the rust, the PB is able to soak more surface area between the fasteners and the contact point. Quenching also forces the metal to quickly contract, further breaking some of the oxidation bond between the fasteners.

I do that 2 or 3 times, then get on it with an impact socket and a breaker bar, holding the breaker bar AT 90* TO THE FASTENER, AND NO EXTENSION.

Extensions are bad for torque. They twist and that deflects part of the load so it's not turning against the threads, which causes you to round corners.

You want to be at 90* to the fastener, so that you are putting all the force directly against it. Any angular force that isn't tangential to the fastener is both wasted force and more likely to cause slip and round the fastener.

[Bert]

I usually heat it up, then quench it with PB (any stuck bolt/nut).

Achieves a couple functions: Heat expands the nut, giving more room for the PB to sneak in. The expansion breaks up some of the rust, the PB is able to soak more surface area between the fasteners and the contact point. Quenching also forces the metal to quickly contract, further breaking some of the oxidation bond between the fasteners.

I do that 2 or 3 times, then get on it with an impact socket and a breaker bar, holding the breaker bar AT 90* TO THE FASTENER, AND NO EXTENSION.

Extensions are bad for torque. They twist and that deflects part of the load so it's not turning against the threads, which causes you to round corners.

You want to be at 90* to the fastener, so that you are putting all the force directly against it. Any angular force that isn't tangential to the fastener is both wasted force and more likely to cause slip and round the fastener.

Wow. College level physics now! But I don't disagree with you. The closer to the action your tools are the more direct the response.