efi flooding?

[muddevil01]

I've had a problem with my b6 swap car after a bad tank of fuel I've replaced the injectors fuel pressure regulator fuel pump trying to get the car to run. Some have suggested that it may have the injectors grounding causing them to be stuck open they aren't stuck open any other suggestions on what to check that would cause it to fuel foul the spark plugs? I can get the car to start for about 10 seconds or so with the fuel pump lead unplugged and holding the accelerator to the floor this is so frustrating I can't figure it out

[FestYboy]

well obviously something is commanding the injectors to hang open. how did you determine that the injectors aren't seeing a constant ground? do you have the firing order correct? there's not much to this system that could produce those results...

[Movin]

Any chance the temp sensors think it is 60 below ? either air or coolant.
have you pulled codes?

[Flyin4stroke]

Sounds like a classic "well I thought that wire was a ground". If your injectors are stuck open something is back feeding the system.

Did you put your main ground wire back on the head?
I would check your vaf to see if it's functioning correctly.
Volt meter is handy.

[muddevil01]

Ok yes the ground is on the Head the car was running fine until had water in the fuel. I am using my digital fluke meter for testing with the lead unplugged from the injector one side of the plug has power constantly and the other side of the plug will flash ”ground” as the motor is cranked if this is the improper way to test them I'm open to try it another way also the firing order is correct and I also thought maybe the vaf was malfunctioning so I switched it with the one from a running car and still nothing so I'm confused I'm going to get my injector noid set from a friend who borrowed it tomorrow and retest the injectors but I don't expect different results

[Movin]

I would also expect results like you expect.

The computer logic is doing as it is programmed
to do. What is giving it mis-information that would
ask for "full rich" Check your temp sensor input from
both sensors and look at other inputs. Pull codes if
any are there. If none are there that is a great clue,
the false info the computer is getting is accepted as
normal. If you notice anything that strikes your interest
let us know, the weirdest symptom can be the best input
to solve a fun problem.

[Bert]

My dad's Festiva had had a 'rebuilt' gas tank installed at one time (5-6 years ago). In fact it was likely the original tank but lined with something. That coating ultimately dissolved and made a thorough mess of everything on the car (including pump, injectors, filter, lines etc). He had worshiped that 'fun little car' for 16 years until the bills suddenly started to pile up in 2009. When repairs crossed the $1500 mark over the course of 6 months he abandoned it and bought-into a lightly-used Toyota Echo. Now familiarized with Toyota 'strippers' he says he'd wished he'd switched over years ago. But I have that Festiva now and after hours of fussing around it's been good to me for the past 50,000 km.

But I can feel for anyone tangling with un-conventional problems. Hourly garage mechanics can't afford to go F&*^ing around tinkering for hours on end like we do, in the hope something gets fixed or ultimately works out.

[muddevil01]

My worry is that due to the amount of fuel being dumped into the engine that it wil wash the bearings because after it quit on me I changed the fuel filter and got it running enough to get it home. I shut it off and now nothing. Is there any chance that there is ”trash” from the tank could be stuck some where causing it to flood I guess I'm grasping at straws but I will check the temp sensor and see what it reads

[Movin]

I don't have the info in front of me, original car manufacturer info, but going
by a poor memory it seems you guys that swap have different wiring on the coolant
sensor. The air temp sensor might be the same. If the signal wire from the coolant
sensor is reporting 60 below zero, it will be so rich it cannot run and it will not
throw a code as that is a window that could happen.

[georgeb]

No check engine light? Seems like an injector timing issue would throw a code.

[muddevil01]

No check engine light I'm thinking it's not an electrical issue but a mechanical one due to the fact that the car was running great until it sucked some rusty nasty crap through the filter and now it won't run. I find it hard to believe that after it sucked trash through the fuel system that it all of the sudden it has a fuel related electrical issue also. I'm lost I've replaced every component that should have been effected by the bad fuel

[Movin]

I misunderstood your post, I thought the bad gas was the last part of a swap!
You had it running fine for some time then had the bad gas?
Given that I would look for a faulty injector(s) or regulator. Pressure is
okay? Are the injectors correct for this engine?

[muddevil01]

Yes I drove the car for over a month after the swap with no problems until I had the issue with the bad gas yes the injectors are correct for the motor and I've replaced the injectors and regulator with a set from a running car and still th same problem

[Movin]

Is there any chance so much crap went through that it has plugged up your return
line driving line pressure to high?

[muddevil01]

I suppose so it couldn't hurt to blow the return line out what is the pressure suppose to be at the regulator? Also what os the best way to check the pressure at the regulator? My pressure gauge only works with the schrader valve connectors and our cars don't have those