Stripped rear axle nut

[Christ]

You're supposed to relieve the staked area before removing the nut...

[mrghost]

Same trouble for me, the rear passenger side spindle is stripped out, the last mech. pinched it to much. now I have to find replacement spindles, any Ideas ??? . the old nut cover and cotter pin was much better for getting the correct torque on the wheel bearing. Sometime Ford takes some bad shortcuts.

[getnpsi]

I don't know a lot about metros, but even in california you see rust on them. The aspire was made into 1997 so plenty of parts available for them. If you decide you do wantmore performance you will see that kia rio parts interchange into aspires, making more recent lineage for parts bin shopping. If you swap a 5 speed and remove weight it will add a lot of zip asis. You'll want goodies for more pep I predict.

[Christ]

I know nothing about the Metros other than they are also Suzuki Swifts and enough former owners have told me the engines were not bullet-proof. The 3 cylinder was 1000 cc and the upscale (4 doors) machines had 4 and were 1.3 litre. Apparently there is even a 1.3 turbo twin-cam version.

Now if in fact the 3-banger has enough torque then maybe it's time to hear about a Festy swap dedicated to fuel economy.

I've never had a problem with the 1.0 properly maintained. The 1.3 is actually a larger version of the same engine used in Hayabusa's, and is a very strong (capable of handling abuse) engine.

The Suzuki Swift GT came with a G10T, I believe, a twin cam turbo 3 cylinder. If it wasn't the GT, there was a version of the Swift that came with a 3cylinder turbo.

I have a friend that swapped a G10 into a CRX. It handles it's own, goes 60 without a problem (he's a hypermiler) and has enough low-end to get out of it's own way. I wouldn't bother swapping a G10 into a Festiva, though, since there are so many similar sized diesels that would mount to our stock tranny with a $50 adapter plate. (Personally, I'd have done the same in a CRX, instead of the G10).

Interestingly, the stock G10's axles fit perfectly into a set of HF CRX hubs (also found on standard Civic models and I believe Auto models until 1991.) I believe they were a tad short on one side at least, though.

The biggest problem I remember about G10's was the middle cylinder overheating from plugged EGR passages. That's what I meant about "properly maintained".

[TominMO]

I'd prefer to run it stock if I can. I'm using it for lots of daily driving and I'm going for max fuel economy. Smaller profile tires help, as would less weight. I'm swapping out the auto transmission for manual later simply for economy. I want to approach geo metro levels of economy ideally.

When I want better braking and performance I'll step into a different car like the Plymouth laser / eagle talon a friend is selling.

If you are doing hwy driving, switching to 13" Metro steelies and tires will give you slightly higher gearing overall; 155/80x13 vs. 155/80x12. It shouldn't hurt city driving much if at all. Back when my Festy had a B3, I got an honest 50 MPG in city driving, no hwy, by using hypermiling techniques.

Plus you can get higher quality tires in 13s, like the Kumho Solus with an 80,000 mile treadwear rating: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....omCompare1=yes

[Bert]

The metro isn't a slow car. The G10 has plenty of torque for the size of the car.

I know nothing about the Metros other than they are also Suzuki Swifts and enough former owners have told me the engines were not bullet-proof. The 3 cylinder was 1000 cc and the upscale (4 doors) machines had 4 and were 1.3 litre. Apparently there is even a 1.3 turbo twin-cam version.

Now if in fact the 3-banger has enough torque then maybe it's time to hear about a Festy swap dedicated to fuel economy.

[Christ]

The metro isn't a slow car. The G10 has plenty of torque for the size of the car.

[Bert]

I'd prefer to run it stock if I can. I'm using it for lots of daily driving and I'm going for max fuel economy. Smaller profile tires help, as would less weight. I'm swapping out the auto transmission for manual later simply for economy. I want to approach geo metro levels of economy ideally.

When I want better braking and performance I'll step into a different car like the Plymouth laser / eagle talon a friend is selling.

Similar fuel economy to a Metro? You must be talking the 3 cylinder sewing machine jobs. Very difficult to beat a Festy for economy, and still retain some rudiments of zip to go along with it.
The swap to 5 speed will get you a good 5-10% improvement though. Have never personally been able to achieve more than 44 mpg (Imperial gallons) with my one stray auto Festy whereas all of my 5 speeds are in the high 40s and one them got me 53 mpg on a dedicated 100 mile highway run last year.
Braking and performance: switch over to Aspire fixins and then you'll have more stopping power than you'll ever need.

[kartracer46]

you need a new spindle assembly. They un-bolt from the rear beam. I highly doubt a mcparts store will be able to get one, but you can try. Crush nut can be purchased, they average $9 or so, specify driver or passenger side to hopefully get the correct thread.

[georgeb]

"I just got newer tires/rubber and replaced front inner and outer tie rods and bushings. Im no going to toss those out after all the time put into that. Are there no websites that carry the axle shaft? What's the specific name of the part to help locate it? "

Getting confused. That's the front end, no? Problem nut is on the rear? Don't see the connection.

That was his response to "why don't you do an Aspire swap?"

[WmWatt]

"I just got newer tires/rubber and replaced front inner and outer tie rods and bushings. Im no going to toss those out after all the time put into that. Are there no websites that carry the axle shaft? What's the specific name of the part to help locate it? "

Getting confused. That's the front end, no? Problem nut is on the rear? Don't see the connection.

[georgeb]

Put a 2 X 4 behind the tire and pry outward while impacting the nut in the right direction.

[92festiva_]

I'd prefer to run it stock if I can. I'm using it for lots of daily driving and I'm going for max fuel economy. Smaller profile tires help, as would less weight. I'm swapping out the auto transmission for manual later simply for economy. I want to approach geo metro levels of economy ideally.

When I want better braking and performance I'll step into a different car like the Plymouth laser / eagle talon a friend is selling.

[Movin]

Awe that's easy, cut the nut and split it or torch it and split it, there are thread files to
correct the spindle threads and you should be back in business!!

[Christ]

I just got newer tires/rubber and replaced front inner and outer tie rods and bushings. Im no going to toss those out after all the time put into that. Are there no websites that carry the axle shaft? What's the specific name of the part to help locate it?

The only thing you'd lose there is the outer tie rod ends... they're what? $7 each?