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  • Okay, clunking on speed bumps

    Well, before I replaced my right side front wheel bearing, changed my passenger side CV axle due to a torn boot, and replaced my tie rod end (the other side will follow soon), I kept hearing a constant grinding sound and a clunking sound when I would go over bumps and make sharp turns throwing the car's weight on the passenger side. Well, I figured the bearing was bad so I replaced it, so no more grinding/groaning sound

    However, it does still "clunk" when going over speed bumps and such. Any ideas? My ball joint looked okay, but I don't really know much about Festiva ball joints, given the fact that the ball joint kinda doubles as a control arm. My springs are pretty rusty though, so could that make the noise?

    Also, something I should mention: The manual said to remove the sway/stabilizer bar bracket (the one that holds the sway bar bushing). Well, there are two 14mm nuts under there that hold it on. Unfortunately, no amount of Liquid Wrench or PB blaster and soaking days could loosen the second nut, and it got rounded off. So I got the brilliant idea to remove the three nuts on the bracket that the first two-nut bracket is attached to. The one that mounts on the frame. Well, one came off okay, but the other two twisted off, taking the exposed bolts with it :eeeeeek:. So only one bolt is holding it on.
    That might be where part of the sound is coming from, but it was making clunking noises going over speed bumps before that so...

    I assume the only fix for that is to take a drill and drill the remainder of those bolts out and run some similar fitting bolts upward into the frame instead of downward, coming out of the frame due to the fact that I can't really access that part.

    What do you guys think?
    - 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3L 141,240 mi (Traded...wish I hadn't)
    - 1996 Ford Probe SE 2.0L Auto 126,000 mi
    - 1988 Festiva "Hermes" 1.3L Carb. 4-spd. 167,000 mi (Found a new home)
    - 1994 Escort GT, 5-spd. with Pacesetter header, and exhaust kit 101,412mi (RIP...T-boned by ditzy driver)
    - 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L Auto 164,000mi (Wow...so this is air conditioning...)
    - 1991 Festiva, 1.3L 5-spd. 75,802 miles. Goes by "Trixie"



  • #2
    That's not supposed to happen to Texas cars! I would weld the bracket to the frame because it doesn't have to ever come off (at least I don't think so). You might be able to chisel a notch in the rounded nut to get it off. Replace it with a beefier nut (mine rounded also). To check ball joints shake wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and look/feel for movement. How did you check the preload when you replaced the bearings?

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    • #3
      Try the other side now. I think that the passenger side axle/ bearing were bad, which caused the noise when turning, but the drivers side was also bad, just not AS bad. That could cause speed bump clunking, but still no clunking on turns.
      1990 White L-Plus 5-speed rust-machine
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      1991 Blue L 5-speed
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      1993 rustless wonder
      A shell, awaiting suspension, brakes, and B6T

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      • #4
        I've had festivas clunk over bumps when the swaybar bushing in the control arm has gone bad. Check those.
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        • #5
          I had this same problem. I replaced everything (control arms, struts etc) and it was still doing it! Finally figured out it was the steering rack. Went to replace the inner tie rod on the passenger side and pieces of bushing and other crap fell out. So I put a new rack in it. Only problem I have now is it still sometimes makes noise b/c I can't find a good bushing to put in it!


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          • #6
            Make sure the pinch bolt is seated properly and on tight. I had one come loose and got a clunk on bumps as it slid up and down in the steering knuckle.
            Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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            • #7
              george b- Yes true lol. But my car actually spent its previous life in Ohio, so that might explain a few things rust-wise. I don't think my preload has really anything to do with it, since it was clunking the same before I started to work on the bearings. And, yeah, welding on the bracket was my other option next to drilling out the old bolts. I doubt I will have to remove it for anything in the future.

              Basement Modder- I've pinpointed the noise to the front right side. I'm not saying it's not possible, but maybe unlikely.

              Levitan- I'll have to check those. They looked okay, but I'll get a closer look and wiggle them around a bit.

              88Festiva- I was starting to think about that. Especially since my steering rack boots are gone and the grease inside started running out. I hope not, that's a somewhat long and pricey fix (to buy the new rack), and I'm pretty broke.

              WmMatt- The pinch bolt is on there pretty snug, and the ball joint is right up there in the steering knuckle like it should be. Odd...
              - 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3L 141,240 mi (Traded...wish I hadn't)
              - 1996 Ford Probe SE 2.0L Auto 126,000 mi
              - 1988 Festiva "Hermes" 1.3L Carb. 4-spd. 167,000 mi (Found a new home)
              - 1994 Escort GT, 5-spd. with Pacesetter header, and exhaust kit 101,412mi (RIP...T-boned by ditzy driver)
              - 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L Auto 164,000mi (Wow...so this is air conditioning...)
              - 1991 Festiva, 1.3L 5-spd. 75,802 miles. Goes by "Trixie"


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              • #8
                A Bad inner tie rod can make this nosie.And it seems very loud because it comes right through the firewall.
                Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by nitrofarm View Post
                  A Bad inner tie rod can make this nosie.And it seems very loud because it comes right through the firewall.
                  ^^^ Right on ...and a bad strut can make this noise too.

                  Does the car want to kinda jump to one side when hitting bumps?
                  Dan




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                  • #10
                    Make sure your transmission cradle hasn't come loose from a rusted lower radiator support (two shouldered bolts and rubber donuts). The cradle drops down and rides on the sway bar. Clunks when bumps are hit.

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                    • #11
                      Well, it does groan when you cut a corner very sharply. Granted, manual racks do that but still... I'm going to have to look at that rack a little better. But cheap things get crossed off my list first so... how can you really tell if an inner tie rod is bad? I assumed that might, just might be the problem, but I'm not really sure. Anything to visually check when it comes to steering racks and inner tie rods and any specific way to check for play on either?

                      And drddan- not particularly. Just a loud clunk
                      - 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3L 141,240 mi (Traded...wish I hadn't)
                      - 1996 Ford Probe SE 2.0L Auto 126,000 mi
                      - 1988 Festiva "Hermes" 1.3L Carb. 4-spd. 167,000 mi (Found a new home)
                      - 1994 Escort GT, 5-spd. with Pacesetter header, and exhaust kit 101,412mi (RIP...T-boned by ditzy driver)
                      - 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L Auto 164,000mi (Wow...so this is air conditioning...)
                      - 1991 Festiva, 1.3L 5-spd. 75,802 miles. Goes by "Trixie"


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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by sickfleming View Post
                        so... how can you really tell if an inner tie rod is bad? I assumed that might, just might be the problem, but I'm not really sure.
                        Front of car in air,steering column locked against stop. Have someone hold the steering wheel so it wont move. Grab tire @ 9 & 3 and push and pull.As you are doing this look for movemant/slop @ inner/outers . It helps a little to have rack boot off to see inner.(But not manditory) Also turn wheel all the way against stop.Then grab tire @ 9 & 3 and try to move it even further in this same direction. If your ball joint is bad you'll see it shifting.
                        Last edited by nitrofarm; 05-19-2012, 07:32 AM.
                        Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                        Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                        Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I need help when im in a gear to soon or off the start car shutters real bad almost like a back fire and off the start the car jumps back and forth and then starts goin been help to fix

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by mattrhodes850 View Post
                            I need help when im in a gear to soon or off the start car shutters real bad almost like a back fire and off the start the car jumps back and forth and then starts goin been help to fix

                            Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk 2
                            Matt completely different topic.Please start a new thread okay. Members will be happy to help you for sure.
                            Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                            Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                            Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                            • #15
                              Sorry for the delay guys. Well, it's been a little while since my last response and the car is doing okay, so I'm thankful for that. However, in response to your inquiries, I would have to say that no, the car does not want to jump or lurch when I'm going over a bump. It just "pops" or "clunks", but it is pretty loud, so a worn inner tie rod or steering rack sounds logical given the fact that they are right next to the firewall. It sounds a little closer than the wheel itself.
                              I checked the lower control arm bushings and the sway bar bushings and they check out okay. The pinch bolt was snug too. More than likely, I'm assuming that it is a spring, inner tie rod, or rack. I mean, weaving in and out of very tight parking spaces here and stuff might not be very healthy for steering and stuff.
                              - 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3L 141,240 mi (Traded...wish I hadn't)
                              - 1996 Ford Probe SE 2.0L Auto 126,000 mi
                              - 1988 Festiva "Hermes" 1.3L Carb. 4-spd. 167,000 mi (Found a new home)
                              - 1994 Escort GT, 5-spd. with Pacesetter header, and exhaust kit 101,412mi (RIP...T-boned by ditzy driver)
                              - 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L Auto 164,000mi (Wow...so this is air conditioning...)
                              - 1991 Festiva, 1.3L 5-spd. 75,802 miles. Goes by "Trixie"


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