Ok guys , heres the deal got my head resurfaced and got it back today they took off the rocker shafts and distributer put them in a box , great right no not great as i see the dist shaft has a screwdriver end either its in write or wrong , my question is how do i put this in write ? Whats timing suppost to be set at ? And tork of rocker shaft bolts i dont wanna wreck andything help please
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Distributer dizzy install
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I suspect that the distributor can be installed 2 ways (ie 180 degrees off or correct). Hopefully you have not disassembled the distributor cap (because the darn rotor can also be installed incorrectly 2 times out of three).
When the piston at number one cylinder is at the top of the compression stroke (watch through the spark plug hole or before the valve cover is put on) number one lead on the distributor cap rotor should be roughly aligned. Hopefully there are still grease or corrosion marks on the head to help indicate where the dizzie was located (timing-wise) originally.
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You need to go to amazon.com and get a haynes manual for your car. They start at $1.08 for a used one with $4 shipping!
When was the last time you paid $5 for a great tool?
You're into this far enough that you need to realize that a manual is as important as a torque wrench at this point.
...Ask the guys with them how we know.
even farther north of detroit!Last edited by iceracerdude; 05-26-2012, 07:56 AM.
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Timing
Pull the spark plug out of #1, insert finger while turning the engine in the correct direction (the direction it runs) on the compression stroke it will push against your finger, on the exhaust stroke it will not. On the compression stroke (since your valve cover is off...) you can also watch your valve train and be sure the intake valve was the last to move (closing) when the piston comes to the top next, is compression. Also you might look at the crank pointer to see if it is aligned (not sure on your engine if it has a TDC mark) at this point when the disty is in all the way, the rotor should be just arriving at (near) contact with the cap contact for the number one plug. (not full alignment) at this setting it should start, but will still need to be timed...
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I learned recently that the B3 dizzy actually is indexed to fit in only one way. Carb and EFI, all years appear to be the same.
You can't put it in 180 deg off. Don't try to force if it's not slipping in with hand force only. The paddle thing/drive key is offset to one side.
Align the mark on the crank nose. Align the two marks on the cam gear, one at 'high noon' one at '3 o'clock'. You have two marks all ready on the front of the head at these positions. Push the dizzy in with the rotor pointed at the number one spark tower on the cap.
That's all I know about this topic.'88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back
'92 Geo Metro XFi
'87 Suzuki Samurai
'85 F150, modded 300cid
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Originally posted by georgeb View PostThe stroke that's missing on my '92.
'88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back
'92 Geo Metro XFi
'87 Suzuki Samurai
'85 F150, modded 300cid
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Originally posted by Bert View PostI suspect that the distributor can be installed 2 ways (ie 180 degrees off or correct). Hopefully you have not disassembled the distributor cap (because the darn rotor can also be installed incorrectly 2 times out of three).Originally posted by BigElCat View PostI learned recently that the B3 dizzy actually is indexed to fit in only one way. Carb and EFI, all years appear to be the same.
You can't put it in 180 deg off. Don't try to force if it's not slipping in with hand force only. The paddle thing/drive key is offset to one side."FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
89L Silver EFI auto
91GL Green Auto DD
There ain't no rest for the wicked
until we close our eyes for good.
I will sleep when I die!
I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!
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If you plan on keeping your Festiva for more than a couple months, or want to work on them, then Haynes and/or Ford shop manuals are necessary!
I have BOTH. Check ebay for deals on Ford shop manuals. You can usually get one for around $20 or less shipped. Combine it with something else, like a wiring fold out or another shop manual (Aspire, Escort, etc.) and you can save a bit more money.
If you plan on mods from other cars those other shop manuals can be great.
Also, Chilton's has a manual on 323/Protege/MX3/MX6/Miata which can come in handy for working with various B series engines.
You can get the manuals on CDs, but I prefer working with paper books since they can be right there next to the car when you're working.
Karl'93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
'91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
'92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
'93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
'89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project
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