Hmm I always assumed they were TTY since its an aluminum head, cast block, if anyone has a definite answer about this, that's be great to know
And I actually planned on re-using the bolts, I found out my head is warped but I need a second vehicle ASAP so I'm just gunna throw it back together until I can get another head to put on it, I know this will creat extra work for myself but that's alright lol
1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor
1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)
If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?
Mitchell's says "The head bolts covered in these models are not of the 'torque-to-yield' variety, however, it is strongly recommended to replace head bolts anytime the head is removed."
I've never replaced head bolts on any festiva/323/tracer/protege/EGT motor I've ever done head work to. I do however have a thread chaser (not a tap, there is a difference) for the block holes and a die that I use on the bolts themselves... want the threads very very clean or you won't get a very accurate torque reading!
Would anyone recommend anti-seize on head bolts? Mine, for instance, came out pretty rusty. Kinda worries me, and I'd like them to not do that again when they go back in and maybe have to come back out again someday.
Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.
Just build it right the first time and don't ever break it and they'll never have to come back out
The Perma-tex copper spray I have says to use it on head bolts, so I did in the last two B3s I rebuilt. Don't know if it helped or not since I haven't had to take them apart yet, and probably never will lol.
I'd rather never assume the best. I did that when I bought a 323 gt with a freshly swapped in Capri6T, so it was all going to be fine. Now I'm rebuilding with no car to drive.
Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.
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