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Carb Festiva.. how should it feel?

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  • Carb Festiva.. how should it feel?

    I've never driven a carb'd Festiva before this, so I have no idea if what I'm feeling is correct, but I'm gonna go ahead and say it's not anyway.

    While driving, whether the pedal is floored or not, the acceleration is absolutely smooth, instead of feeling "bumps" up the power scale. I can shift at 3, 4, 5k, and the acceleration will be basically the same through any RPM no matter where the throttle is, except obviously faster (to some extent) with more pedal. Almost like a flat torque curve, really.

    5th gear WILL NOT hold speed on hills, etc... even at WOT, even with the microswitch engaged. There is no CEL on, either.

    To be quite honest, I can feel in the pedal at point where I'm guessing the secondary is starting to open, and there's clean, normal power increases (still with the smoothness, though) up to that point in the throttle... then it's just flat.

    Let the clutch out too fast, it stalls then takes off. I mean during normal driving, not trying to launch it.

    Low RPM, about 30-50% throttle, spits and sputters like an impotent jerk being asked to work the 5th weekend in a row. From there, anything past 50% throttle is fine acceleration.

    Seems a lot like the carb is still plugged up with crap, to me. I don't really want to disassemble the thing, though, because I'm not even keeping it, I just wondered if there were some settings that someone may have played with that could be affecting it's performance in this way.

    For the record, I haven't actually checked much of anything in the lines of tune-up on this car, and it starts up like the first crank (half a turn) every time, for the most part, so I haven't really bothered with screwing with anything, especially knowing that I'm gonna swap IC's onto it.

    Other than all that, I've got 2 pairs of CVK30's and an EFI manifold that are about ready to be sacrificed to the Festiva Gods.

  • #2
    Mine felt that way. I ran premium and advanced timing trying to help it along which DID help. Gutless even in 4th as i didn't have a 5th, but i also had larger wheels and tires so it was kind of semi-OD rpm ranges. There was a chart showing that the 4th gear in a 4 speed is not 1:1 like you'd expect but a .9x:1 if i am not mistaken.

    Most everyone outside of my state who doesn't need a OEM stock car for inspection is going to toss you to the various weber threads..FB71 might help and festiva GTX would as well, i actually sold him a 1988 OEM carb and its manifold a few years back.
    1993 GL 5 speed

    It's a MazdaFordnKia thing, and you will understand!

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    • #3
      Yeah, i'm not going with a weber. I'll do IC's before i even think about that headache.

      If that's really how it's supposed to feel in OEM config, then it's fine. I don't mind downshifting to hold speed on hills, so long as it's /supposed/ to be that way.

      Once the IC's are on, I'm sure it'll be much better. I should have no problem being able to eek up to 65 or 70 HP, I think.

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      • #4
        Nice choice with the IC's. Cool carb's.
        I have a weber 32/36, it runs darn good. The stock carb gets worn, and old, it doesnt function like it should, and I am not sure if they ran optimum from factory, as they adjusted for fuel economy.
        Dan




        Red 1988 Festiva L - CUJO

        Black 1992 Festiva GL Sport - BLACK MAGIC

        I'm just...a little slow... sometimes:withstupid:

        R.I.P.
        Blue 1972 Chevelle SS-468 C.I.D. B'nM TH400-4:56 posi-Black racing stripes-Black vinyl top-Black int.
        Black on black 1976 Camaro LT-350 4 bolt main .060 over
        Silver 1988 Festiva L

        My Music!
        http://www.reverbnation.com/main/sea...t_songs/266647

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        • #5
          I'm still not totally set on the using the CVK30's yet. I have a set of Keihin that are already in a 4 bank that I can use also, and bikes pop up at hte junkyard from time to time. They charge the single carb price for a whole bank, which is something like $30.

          I've got enough experience tuning bike carbs that I shouldn't have any problems getting them to run properly the same day I get 'em on, really. It's just a matter of on again off again while testing for proper jet sizes and needle position.

          First I need to figure out how I want to make the manifold, though. I've got a few options for that, but I'm still waiting to decide what carbs I'm using before I really think about how to make the manifold for them.

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          • #6
            My carby has plenty of power for what it is, pulling hills isn't a problem.. can cruise at 70+ all day and I'm just on a 4 spd. Something is definitely up with yours, I honestly don't notice much of a difference between mine and a EFI one.
            -93' L BP swap/e-series, coilovers, RIO front swap, redrilled festy drums, Miata 14" 7 spokes.
            -88' Mazda 323 SE, work in progress..
            -85' Nissan Sentra 5 spd.

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            • #7
              Off idle circuit may be restricted but not plugged. That would be the jet that supplies
              fuel to the needles. Float could be low making transition to mains a little rough.
              Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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              • #8
                Mine was the same way when I had new ngk wires on it . I took them off for another car and put a cheap advance auto set on and it was fine after that . Have no clue why but I even switch back and had same results .
                The ngk wires helped my bp car thou and they are a new set just alittle longer then stock !
                New build on the way .

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                • #9
                  so, you've never clean your carb?? mmmmm i have mine with a toyota 3K carb on it, and from time to time I clean it, but I also add a full quarter of marvel mystery oil to the gas tank each time i fill it up and it really helps to keep the jets and needles clean and lub.
                  I know every body have their opinion on additives, but to me this one really works on carbs, on EFI doesn't do nothing.... I've test it on my VW...

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                  • #10
                    Theres no lubrication necessary in carb jets, they're just holes. The only place gas touched that might need lubrication if the throttle pivot and the float pivot.

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                    • #11
                      Carbs are just more inherently more dirty, so regular maintenance like tuneups and oil changes should be followed ocd style. Marvel mystery oil in the fuel can help top end lube on valvetrain, not a lot to do with carb itself. Christ the best way to make a 1.3 carb have power it was when new is to make it a 1.6er lol.
                      1993 GL 5 speed

                      It's a MazdaFordnKia thing, and you will understand!

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                      • #12
                        hahahahaha yeah your right!! its late and i'm sleepy....

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